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Showing results for '"Acrylic "'.
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Keith from Acrylic Creations, if he's not sailing around the country at the moment...
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Give Keith from Acrylic Creations a call. http://www.acryliccreations.co.nz/dt_gallery/boat-windows/ 098277118 He has done a couple of sets of windows for me. In fact my old boat 'Jagged Edge' features on the gallery page for boat windows. Keith owns the Alan Wright Marauder 'Manawa' and just did a circumnavigation of New Zealand. Great guy.
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Whats wrong with the marine industry in this country.
ScottiE replied to John B's topic in MarineTalk
Yeh - I just managed to break one of the tear drop windows while cleaning it and what I can't understand is why no one is answering my call into 0800-plasticmajicman at 2245 hrs on Friday the first of January! Just very poor service I have to say! I just hope the bugger can be bothered gettin in his Ferrari and driving back to Auckland from Bach Omaha to open the door on Monday morning! (F**k - anyone recommend a good acrylic window manufacturer?) -
From Dow Corning: Q: Can Dow Corning silicone sealant/adhesives be used underwater? We do not recommend our silicone sealants/adhesives for continuous underwater use. Q: Will your sealants adhere to hard to bond to plastics such as polyethylene, polypropylene, urethane, acrylic or PTFE? Normally, no, silicone sealants generally will not adhere to these substrates; however utilizing one or more of the following adhesion improvement techniques (chemical treatment, roughing the surface, corona treating the surface) may help. Always keep in mind, that even though they may not have great adhes
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Chris is spot on. Sika or any of those adhesives, won't stick well to acrylic without the primer. Eventually they will let go and leak and if not mechanically held in, will come right out. Glass is a different story and MS and Silicons will adhere well.
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It's good that you have a solution that works for you. I am a little reluctant to depart from Sika's recommended methods given the complexities of working with acrylic - I'm trusting them that it's not just money making advertising hype. Plus, I've already shelled out on all the expensive gunk. Two points: Cutting acrylic is pretty easy on a bench saw with a fine toothed blade if all you want is straight cuts. The majority of boat windows are curved and need a jig saw and the problem here is overheating of the blade which causes the acrylic to fuse back in the cut behind the blade. Edge chi
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No I our windows are actually quite large, would easily be bigger than a H28 and the sealant is very flexible. Not sure about the adhesion to Acrylic but I would be surprised if it didn't stick - would be easy to test it. It is not easy to remove the glass I can assure you.
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There are two points Chewing Gum, firstly, your windows are glass, and secondly I would guess not too big, so the sealant you are using is very suitable. Acrylic on the other hand presents difficulties with adhesion, hence the need for Sika 209 primer which then needs the 295UV sealant for comparability reasons. Also, expansion and contraction of acrylic is huge compared to glass so it really needs a purpose designed tape/primer/sealant system at huge expense - unfortunately.
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I couldn't say regarding your toe rails, but if you go to the 3M NZ site, you will find screeds of info as well as technical specs for all their products. I prefer tape/sikaflex fixing over mechanical fastening for acrylic. Tape provides even adhesion all around the perimeter of the window whereas mechanical fastenings create stress points - something acrylic doesn't like too much.
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At least in my case, the windows have so many scratches on them that I prefer to get new ones. Then my question would be how to cover the holes in the fibreglass (from the inside). What kind of Sika can do the glueing job? I have Sika 291, but I guess it's a sealant and not a glue. And also, I did remove the bolts from one of the windows last weekend and then found out that the acrylic is impossible to remove, any suggestion there? Other than pushing hard from the interior Cheers
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Usually these days with acrylic windows they fit into a recess . Using a bed of marine sealant - there are several types ( Sika have one product) , it should seal and secure the window adequately to not have to use screws . Modern sealants are very strong and using screws is likely to cause stress points in the acrylic .
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Is that right though?( I hope not) plenty of soft dodgers get through cat 1 because the structural and watertightness of the boat is dependent on the existing hatch and bulkhead etc. Most hard dodger windows won't meet the 2 square feet threshold anyway. I'm planning on a hard dodger myself and intend to use acrylic at this stage because its more scratch resistant than polycarbonate.I'll just beef it up, If a wave does bust through.. tough luck, all the hatch structure is still there. Oh.. are you opening all that out?
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You mean this $7.9 million dollar monumental f*ck up? There was, and then there wasn't. The bridge across the motorway was to have opened last September but hairline cracks have appeared on 10 of 206 acrylic panels fixed to the $7.9 million structure. The Herald reported in May that the Transport Agency was considering whether to attach temporary screens to the structure, so it could be used before a permanent solution was found. The agency says tests have satisfied it that the 10 lanes of traffic passing underneath are in no danger from faulty panels. But it can't say
