SanFran 13 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Today it decided I needed the exercise rowing to my mooring. That wasn't too bad, it was then return journey against the tide that nearly did me in. Anyway, I digress. Friday it started no probs. Today, not so much. I did get it to fire for a few seconds. But then, really nothing. Probably flooded the carb, but I'm thinking the main issue might be the fuel pump, fuel delivery. Sounds like not enough getting through to supply carb? Anyone had similar issues? There's a couple of membranes the fuel passes through on the way to the carb. Hopefully that'll fix it. It's not the filter, that all works. TIA for any thoughts, suggestions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K4309 350 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I pulled mine apart when I feel like a pleasant easy job in the shed, dismantle the carb and soak various bits in CRC carb cleaner, then put it back together how it came apart. Starts second pull cold start and first pull every time, 2hp Yamaha. Doing that addresses things like a sticky float, grease / wax build up in the bowl and sh*t in the jets and what not. If you think you flooded it, it might just be that, but an easy strip down and clean of the carb is probably the first diagnostic step in identifying any other issues that you have mentioned. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 13 Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 Flooding wasn't the issue, still wont start, but sounds like it's the thing to do. Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvarkash10 1,056 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 The jets in those carbs are tiny ( ours is worse, it's the 2.5hp version) so even invisibly small crap can block them. Fresh fuel less than 3 months old helps. TBH, if it hasn't been serviced in a while just drop the whole thing in to Ray Bryant and let them sort it. Then you are good for another year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,278 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 4 stroke, right? They have very small jets, it's VERY likely a carb blockage. Take the jets out and clean them - they are very small in these motors, and will block with older fuel that has gelled a little.... Empty the fuel into your car, clean the fuel system, and fresh fuel, it will go fine.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 13 Posted May 19 Author Share Posted May 19 2 stroke, but all good comments, thanks. It was serviced about 6 months ago, out west. I would have thought that the fuel would be clean, and is fresh, but I guess you don't really know. I'll strip down and clean the carb. And go for new pump membranes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,672 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 I had issues this week after the rain. Turns out water in the fuel, very little and easily purged with the drain screw. 4hp Yamaha 4st Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 671 Posted May 19 Share Posted May 19 Got spark??Give the plug a clean and a squirt if engine start before polling pump a part.2s only 2 things can go wrong no spark or fuel 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SanFran 13 Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 I'll give the magic carb cleaner a go, then try for the fuel pump membranes then take It to the workshop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lindsay 33 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 My little 3.5 Mercury drove me insane. Was very reliable for 8 or 9 years but then conked out every time I used it for the next 2 or 3 years. Mechanic reckoned it was to do with some change to the composition of petrol (?) and that repairs to small outboards was their biggest money spinner. I ditched it and splashed out on an ePropulsion Spirit electric. Best thing I’ve ever bought. (Apart from the diesel heater) (And the boat) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Black Panther 1,672 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 3 hours ago, Lindsay said: My little 3.5 Mercury drove me insane. Was very reliable for 8 or 9 years but then conked out every time I used it for the next 2 or 3 years. Mechanic reckoned it was to do with some change to the composition of petrol (?) and that repairs to small outboards was their biggest money spinner. I ditched it and splashed out on an ePropulsion Spirit electric. Best thing I’ve ever bought. (Apart from the diesel heater) (And the boat) Do you charge it from the boat or plug into the grid somehow? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
K4309 350 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 3 hours ago, Lindsay said: My little 3.5 Mercury drove me insane. Was very reliable for 8 or 9 years but then conked out every time I used it for the next 2 or 3 years. Mechanic reckoned it was to do with some change to the composition of petrol (?) and that repairs to small outboards was their biggest money spinner. I ditched it and splashed out on an ePropulsion Spirit electric. Best thing I’ve ever bought. (Apart from the diesel heater) (And the boat) The govt of the day thought they could change the weather by putting biofuel in the petrol. The last one just been very nearly forced the industry to put 10% biofuel in but backtracked last minute cause it would increase petrol prices too much, coinciding with record high prices due to Russia invading their neighbour. Anyway, biofuel is ethanol effectively, and attracts moisture like a bastard. Petrol with biofuel in it has a very short shelf life for temperamental things like outboards, chainsaws, weed eaters and what not. Consequently, we all need to be very fussy with the age of petrol used for such things. The car can handle it fine, but you can't leave a fuel can in your shed or boat for the winter and expect your small engines to work fine next spring. Ditch the fuel can into the car and always run your outboards etc on fresh fuel. If you have petrol in your outboard and it's older than about 3 months, drain it out and get rid of it. Put fresh stuff in. Some people are also religious about shutting off the fuel tap while the outboard is running. This drains the float chamber so it doesn't gum up. It can also make it a bastard to start the outboard next time cause the float chamber is empty (depends how fast it fills up when you open the fuel valve next time). Personally I just stop the motor, leaving fuel in the carb, but strip it down once in a while (once or twice a year) and ensure I use fresh fuel. The other thing you can do is add Fuel Set, which helps significantly with issues around waxes forming, fuel going stale and diesel bug if used in diesel. Fuel Set Fuel System Conditioner 200ml - B200FS - Liquid Engineering | Repco New Zealand Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytom 671 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 never run a 2s dry of fuel as oil residue is required to stop rusting etc,best to let fuel evaporate naturally. Got that from o/b mechanic as was having start issues. 2s dont like biofuel older 2s need to run on 95 or better. Incidently bio fuel is coming to a end in NZ due to cost of shipping Z closed its bio fuel plant in Wiri about 2 yrs ago. Gull will be stopping 698 bio as will use caltex 95 or better I believe. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest 109 Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 Agree, mightn't help waxing up, but start is most wearing part of operation I'm told. Dry cylinder is not ideal. Recently I've been having trouble starting Yami 5. My mechanic said run it dry. I didn't say a word. Last time it wouldn't go I gave the above tank a blow job. (Not ideal) Went first pull then. Whatever works for you. At some stage you are going to have to clean the jets whatever you do. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lindsay 33 Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 16 hours ago, Black Panther said: Do you charge it from the boat or plug into the grid somehow? It comes with a 240 volt charger so you can take the battery home to charge. But I have never done this as I also have a 12 volt charger so I always do a charge when under way motoring for a couple of hours. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
funlovincriminal 175 Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 19 hours ago, harrytom said: never run a 2s dry of fuel as oil residue is required to stop rusting etc,best to let fuel evaporate naturally. I guess with a really crap oil you could run into issues but in my experience the oil carried in the fuel mixture remains on bearings and cylinder walls long after the fuel has been burned. On the weekend I rebuilt my sons Motocross Bike (KTM85) and had to freeze all the new gearbox and main bearings while heating the 2 halves of the crankcase to 180 degrees c in the admirals flash Bosch oven (she was away at the Barrier on a girl's trip 😉) I always run the bikes out of fuel before loading them in the trailer at the end of a ride. Even though I thoroughly degreased the cases, then washed with neat petrol and a brush, wiped clean all the surfaces with a new rag and allowed to dry... I still smoked the house out with Motul 800 2T oil and got a telling off when she arrived home 6 hrs later! I reckon stale fuel/separated oil will do more to frustrate an occasional outboard user than running them dry will cause any damage. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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