Jump to content

H28 maintainance tips etc


sealegs

Recommended Posts

Hi all

 

I am a new sailor to the scene and own a 1981 glass fibre Compass H28 I purchased in Feb 2011.

I need to pick the brains of the vast sailing experience lurking behind the pc monitors while perusing this site. Its a virtual Sailing think tank!

 

# I noticed in the last rain we had in April that all the window gaskets/seals were leaking/dripping & need replacing since they all look perished.

Any advice on this replacement?. I dont know if H28 replacement seals are available anymore nor if any such seals are a viable option with the latest technology available today so if not then should I just use marine silicone to seal them all like the SIKA silicone products?.

I note also that any item required with the tag "marine" attached to it comes with a higher price too than other non marine items that could possibly also be used in some above water marine situations I suppose?

Are there cheaper alternatives than the "marine " tagged products in some circumstances?

If so which under circumstances if any would you go with "non marine"?

 

#What about bird poo!?

I am on a swing mooring in and have tried using thin fishing line criss crossing the deck to wreck the birds landing /approach to perch ( as per doug shmuck's advice from opua boatyard) but am not 100% successful. I still end up with lots of poo to scrub off.

#Another problem I want to solve is the light on top of the mast. The bulb needs replacing. How do you guys do it?

 

Any advice /tips would be welcome including other H28 things I should be aware of etc.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Put new windows in my yacht but can't picture the H28 windows. My windows were perspex flush mounted. I used 3M VHB tape and Down Corning 791 (I think) - same black goop that use to hold in highrise buildings. Taped it all up and had plenty of rags for clean up. Worked a treat.

 

Bird Poo - can't comment - have seen boats using old CDs

 

Light bulb - up the mast on the halyard / bosuns chair. Consider installing a new LED masthead light (or LED bulb at the very least) - uses about 10% of the power of a halogen and you will have probably sold the boat long before it needs changing again.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If I recall correctly the H28 windows are perspex let into the sides of the cabin top with a fibreglass moulding screwed in over the top. You'll need to unscrew the moulding, dig out the window and remove all the old sealant before squeezing new sealant in, replacing the windows and the moulding on the outside.

 

Not rocket science and easy to do, its just a pain (and messy) to remove the old stuff and you'll want to use the right sealant to reinstall the windows ('cos you don't wanna have to do it twice).

 

For bird scaring you can hang a few old CDs from fishing line ... apparently the flashing as the CDs spin in the wind scares the birds away. Don't know if you can still get it, but you used to be able to get some tape that hummed in the wind. Stringing a length or two of that stuff seemed to upset the birdies.

 

Masthead light on a H28 .... probably only need a stepladder wouldn't you?? :)

 

I forgot to say that there's a theory that when you're working with sealant, as soon as you open the tube you should squirt some on your jeans, drop a blob on the deck, stick a healthy blob in your hair and squirt some onto your shirt. The reason is ... its gonna get there eventually, you might as well just get it over with right at the start. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

There's a big stinkpot on the end of R,ST or Q in westhaven with that humming tape. Not sure about bird sh*t, but it's drive you batshit if you had to be near it for any time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent advice guys...thanx. keep it coming.

 

Err... @ Grinna,

a stepladder to replace h28 masthead? what are you trying to say? :eh: lol. go ahead.. make fun of the H28. dont forget the H28 has proven pedigree. I presume the mast on your yacht is twice as high then?.... and possibly no pedigree established yet to match the H28 :wink:

 

I agree she is old but I found her best suited & very forgiving of my limited experience. 8)

 

@ ab1974

Not quite sure exactly what type of light fitting is up there yet but will look at LED option. thnx for that one. :thumbup:

 

@ Murky

Thanx for the link. will be studying that one closely :thumbup:

 

I tried to load some photos of the windows but the file is too large for this site. The yacht seems to have the original window gaskets in. No sealant at all.

Anyone with knowledge on a current reliable make of sealant to use. I am presuming that SIKA is the current but I may be wrong?

 

Edit: Admin has kindly loaded the pics of the windows for me. See way below. Thanx admin :thumbup:

 

I never thought of using CD's. good idea. The flashing would scare them off . I just remembered to look for a large plastic toy owl too and give him a good perch.

 

Excellent advice guys...thanx. keep it coming. :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

As Grinna said - remove all the old gunk and clean the bedding surfaces properly.

 

I've used Sika (there is a recommended one - it's black) as a sealant in the past - no matter what you use they all need to be re-done at some stage because of movement of window relative to hull with flexing of the boat. Tape around all the surfaces that can get messed - window and cabin sides, inside and out. Use plenty gloves.

 

The perspex needs to be set away from the fibreglass so you need to put in some shims to hold it away from the edges of the rebated area as well as the base (see diagram at http://www.yachtsurvey.com/WindowRepair.htm).

 

Apply enough goop to ensure that there are no 'dry' areas. Set up some sort of lever to press and hold the window in place (toe rail, wooden battens, ropes, etc) - I have not used the frames to hold mine in place while curing as some of the screws are stripped. It seems that others have done so successfully. Allow to cure a bit and then remove the tape and trim the excess goop away and attach the frames.

 

BTW - I think there are some moulds for new frames, if needed, available through the H28 association.

 

Re Bird poo - I had a masive problem with this when on a swing mooring. Tried fishing line, supermarket packets, netting, CD's, etc. None worked. Then I read an article on birds being scared of 'eyes' watching them, so I hung a red buoy from the end of the boom and stuck little squares of black electricians tape on it . Also put some 'eyes' on the mooring buoy lying on the fore deck. Never had another bird poo on my boat. Also quick and easy.

 

There is a huge amount of jealousy here when it comes to H's, so expect the odd unusual comment about speed, sail size, mast height, etc. from those who can't afford one. :wink:

Link to post
Share on other sites

@ anttay

 

Thnx for that detailed reply. I read the link on the purpose of the shims re: hull /window frame movement. It makes sense. I shall do just that. May take a bit longer but worth the effort long term. I dont want to do this again for a very long time. :thumbup:

Interesting comment on the "eyes". Perhaps its the "eyes" of the owl that works when used as deterrents and not its threatening presence as one presumes.

Good one! :thumbup:

 

will checkout the H28 assc. :thumbup:

Link to post
Share on other sites

...yep check out the H28 group. I gather the NZ lot are quite active. I am a member of the Victorian (Oz) group here.

The original wooden H28 is a clasic yacht. It was produced in Ketch and sloop. the most common being a sloop.

It was produced from a series of articles in a yachting magazine !!! (as well as some comercial builders.

 

There is a variety of fiberglass versions. One of the most prolific was the Walker boat company here in Victoria. A 120 mostly ketch rigged where built. These boats have circumnavigated !!

Interestingly, most of the WA boats are sloop rigged.

 

idler 057 h28.JPG

 

The old and the new...and me and my other boat out in front :D

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey there Sealegs, just poking fun at the good ol' H28. Don't take it too seriously, there's a lot of respect for them amongst a lot of yachties despite the derogatory comments. Most of us have sailed one at some stage.

 

You'll need to send someone up the mast to get to the masthead light (obviously) so either haul a light person up with with a rope (so you can send up a bucket with tools in it) or get someone to haul you up in the bosuns chair. If you're contemplating LED replacements for the masthead light, be aware that some LED units can cause radio interference and that you need to use the right coloured LEDs. Bright white LEDs make starboard lights appear blue rather than green so you'll want a warm white LED bulb ... closer to the light characteristics of a conventional light bulb.

 

There is, of course, the assumption that the light isn't working because of a blown bulb. Take a multimeter up there and check that there's voltage. You may also want to ensure that the light fitting is clean and free from corrosion.

 

Something else to be aware of is the ballast in the H28s. Is your boat ballasted with steel punchings? I've seen a boat that was and saltwater had got into the ballast and the rust was expanding the ballast upward, pushing the cabin sole up enough to jam the door to teh forrard cabin.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used small triangles 5mm x 5mm x 2.5mm thick neoprene to hold the window material off the cabin side while the goop cures. These don't need to be removed (can't be) as they are small enough not to interfere with the sealing of the window.

You could use rubber or something similar instead of the neoprene. the careful use of masking tape will make the final clean up simple and easy.

Link to post
Share on other sites

We replaced the windows on the H 2 years ago with toughend glass. Acrylic (perspex) is ok but you really need to pull them out, clean off the old sealant and replace with Sika 295 UV. If the current Acrylic shows any craziing ditch it as it is on its last legs. Carefull with the retaining screws as they dont have a lot to hold on to (self tappers into the fibre glass)

 

The step ladder will work , just strap Grinna to the ladder and hoist the whole lot up the mast :D

 

Happy slowling

Link to post
Share on other sites

@ Grinna

No worries. no offence taken. I knew you were pulling my leg. :lol:

 

The previous owner did mention that he thinks its the light bulb thats fused and I just wanted to know how I can get up there safely & do what I got to do. I do electronics & HF radio comms as a hobby so no problem to fault find it etc.

 

No visible problems regarding the ballast. The yacht is in pretty good condition except for a few minor details like 1)windows seals, 2)tightning of guard rails,

3) whole boat needs a good polish,4)the teak strip running along the edge of the deck "cant remember what its called" had lots of lichen/mould material on it which I got rid of most of it.needs a good scrub.

5) I did'nt like the ancient depth sounder she came with and got an Eagle Cuda 350 GPS/ fishfinder which worked nicely while we sailed her north from auckland after purchase using a temporary install. Doug Shmuck suggested I get rid of and plug the current 5mm hole thru the hull where the old depth sounder transponder cable runs thru to its hull fitting cause it poses a risk. (On my thing to do list )

I now have to get a suitable housing to fit the new transponder to and do a inside hull install like on the pics of this link below.( any ideas on where I can get something suitable? )

See page 5 of this link In-Hull or Shoot-Through http://www.furunousa.com/Learning%20Cen ... ide-LR.pdf

 

6)The small galley work surface & side panels is a terrible colour (dark green ) so I am busy re- covering it with a new light coloured vinyl.

7)The small holding tank needs to be vented to the outside with a short hose.(dont know why it was never done in the first instance upon install??) :crazy:

Ive already re upholstered all the squabs etc etc.

 

@Offender

the current windows does show some crazing. where do I get replacements? :think:

[ Carefull with the retaining screws as they dont have a lot to hold on to (self tappers into the fibre glass) ]

good one. :thumbup: Ive been looking at them screws and wondering. thnx for the heads up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Try woods glass in Porowini ave Whangarei for replacement acrylic, give them an old one and they will cut a replacement, plain clear, or varying degrees of smoke colouring are available.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another trick when you are working with sticky poo, chuck about 5 pairs of gloves on at a time then you just remove a glove when it gets dirty so you dont get black poo fingerprints everywhere! Also a few plastic bags peged to the life lines at about 1m intervals ( so you can put the dirty masking tape and gloves straight in there helps as well.

Trust me its a messy job and the more prepared you are like that the easier the clean up is!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Any Glazier should be able to supply and cut the acrylic or you can buy a sheet from PSP ( plastic sheeting place) And cut them your self. you will need a slow speed jig saw and some patience. Slow speed is essential to stop the acrylic melting and the saw blade from grabbing the material and shaking the crap out of it, which results in cracks. Leave the protective paper on until installation.

 

Yep I have done all this before

Link to post
Share on other sites

@idlerboat

 

thnx for those nice pics. I do like yachts with many sails too and would like to own a ketch or a cutter rigged yacht. a schooner really makes me stare and admire...

 

@Steve Pope

 

thnx for that info I called them up.

 

@B00B00

got it...preparation is half the job

 

@offender

will look at PSP & compare prices with Woods. thnx

 

Thanx for all the responses.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...