Jump to content

How much do you draw and when does it become a real pain


DrWatson

Recommended Posts

SO, I have a choice of keel depths, and while it would be nice to cruise the canals of Europe, the performance loss will be dramatic. I know that it's always gonna be a compromise, but in reality, I'm not looking at cruising much in the Med, more like visiting, the lesser known spots. And lurking round the NZ/Aussie coast, some islands work etc.

 

I notice the East cost of the US has some seriously shallow harbours...

 

At what draft do you (and I mean you all out there) start to have problems?

 

2m?

 

2.4m?

 

or anything over 1.5m?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mercenary was 2.1 metres, and never had an issue cruising. Realistically how often do you anchor in less water than that? And do you really cut it fine enough that the difference between 1.7 and 2.1 makes a difference?

The only place we had an issue was low tide getting in the tamaki estuary! but that wasnt too bad and bigger boats still do it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well. for a long time many designs were 6ft (1.8 m), I'd be reluctant to go much over 2m, unless of course it was a liftable keel! There are many places in the pacific and elsewhere where draft over 2m will be an issue. Not to say you can't do them, but more difficult. Oyster Island in Vanuatu, Munrovo Lagoon in the Solomons, Cooktown in Ausy, many anchorages in Ausy you'll be out further etc. There are heaps more! And yes, I do cut it to within 100mm sometimes, and My keel bulb has the scars to prove it!!! - cause I haven't fixed them yet, and the fwd sonar was smashed (by a Log).

 

Some newer performance boats are starting to have lifting keels - a great Idea (I had a noelex 30, which had a good system). Seen 3m down, 1.5 up. Fantastic for cruising!

Link to post
Share on other sites

The Nonsuch 30 Ultra came with two keep options, a 1.5m and a 1.2m shoal draft (ballast is identical, the shoal draft has a "foot" with a flat bottom). The only difference is about 3 degrees of pointing ability and somewhat greater leeway when hard on the wind.

 

Drawing 1.2m allows me to anchor a LOT closer to the beach than most other boats, and has allowed me to get into Whangamata relatively-close to low-tide.

 

I guess my point is that the performance issue is only an issue if you are racing, or if you like pounding into the wind, the rest of the time shallower is better.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It seems then that aside from being denied river access, 2.2m would be mostly passable for anchoring, except in all the nice places that IT mentions.

 

A lifting keel would of course be the ultimate answer, but we’re not so keen on having too many move-able underwater parts or what amount to potential hull breech areas. Anything that can move under the water is a point for reliability issues IMHO.

 

A two piece keel might be a consideration, whereby the bottom half is removed for river/canal work… But it would require hauling, and then adequate fixing, as well as a stowage place for what would be a 1.5 ton bulb when cruising rivers (or trucking…). How much righting moment do you really need if you've got the mast on the deck to cruise canals for 3 months?

 

Leeway difference (and righting moment) between 2.2m and 1.8m, or worse 1.6m, would be pretty large I imagine. Pointing might be helped with a trim tab but then we have the extra moving appendage/reliability issue. Wings? Canards? Forward un-shippable rudder?

 

Pointing 3° higher will make quite a difference over 100 miles, and will almost always win you that race…

I know there is no free lunch here, but doesn't stop me wanting one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

DrW, a lifting keel, like the noelex one, does not compromise watertight integrity. it is in a centre case that runs right up through the deck, and the keel is lifted vertically. if the hydraulics fail, the keel won't be able to be raised, that's all. its locked down with a grid pin, which is capable of supporting the weight of the boat, so with the keel down its effectively a fixed keel boat. the Elliot tourers with lifting keels used a similar system I believe, as did Bruno Trouble's Wanaka. its a proven system that works well, but must be engineered into the boat....

Link to post
Share on other sites

A large percentage of the yachts in WA use this system too. Reducing draught from 2.8m to around 2.0 is common and necessary because many (most) of the marinas are quite shallow.

 

TB

Link to post
Share on other sites

Are you intending on cruising Asia Dr W? Have just done a week bareboat charter from Phuket on a bendy boat 40, draft approximately 2.5m... Was almost always ok apart from one or two places, had it been 1.8m it would have been a bit more comfortable... This was mostly for passage making between a few islands where you'd have to take the long way around, anchorages were ok(well all the ones we came across anyway) but it did mean anchoring quite far out at times...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Parts of the U.S. east coast are so shallow that folks sail these spritsail skiffs (below), which are said (but not by me) to be able to sail in 20 cm (eight inches) of water. They are a lot of fun, but not your coastal or ocean cruiser.

If I were buying a bigger boat I'd consider a shoal draft keel. On thirty footers, some draw not much over a meter with not a huge loss of performance.

 

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q ... 0787797746

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...