DrWatson

Shane, can you please write your content in the post itself, and start them all with a succinct topic title? In general there are many ways to make a boat more comfortable. I assume there are two of you? Firstly, ditch all the crap that you don't need. This usually holds moisture. aspire to own as little as possible and then you'll be less pissed off when any of it gets buggered by being on your boat 'cause you'll have less that can get buggered Sail north during the winter months to make things warmer Ensure a good airflow through the boat at all times Be sure that every person livi

Ah, nice one, the running backstays. Forgots about them. Just bought Andersen 40s which should do for the halyards, can be upgraded to elektiks R

looking at your deck layout: The winches seem to have popped up like a crop of pimples on a teenager. Do you actually use them all? I'm actually interested from a cockpit/deck layout perspective...

That's my understanding of it, too. I will never get 100% NZ super, I've spent 25% of my working life in Switzerland. But I might get 75% NZ super. However, having paid into the Swiss system for 25% of my working life, I'm apparently eligible for 25% of the basic Swiss govt pension. So that should take care of the rates... But I am interested overall in the living on a NZ vessel "does it count as living in NZ" thing. Perhaps it comes down to when you're in international waters? Because when you're on a NZ vessel inside another territory, it's the laws of the territory you're visiti

Question i have is, were these dicks they arrested kiwis born and bred or were they recent arrivals? Locals to Northland somewhere or from some other part of the country?

It's a five year registration, no? so 200 bucks a year.

Yep, the 28 is going out out at equiv. 1028NZD 40 for 1291NZD 48 for 1938NZD So a tad better than NZ price. Which I have to agree with Wheels, seems that NZ prices for imported goods might be on the backward ?? maybe I'll grab the 48 as well, but I have to think a bit more about deck/cockpit layout

hahahaha, yes indeed! now corrected

So, I've been made a pretty good offer on Andersen 28ST FS and Andersen 40ST FS winches, but only those models... I mean we're talking 35-40% off the best other price here. Apparently it pays to go on vacation to Copenhagen.. I won't be needing them for about another 18 months, but, Question is, on a 40ft light disp. boat with 29m2 foretriangle and 38m2 main, how would you size your cabin top and main winches? I mean, I don't want to end up needing a serious gym routine to be able to go sailing. Primaries for the genoa/spi etc. will have to be 50s I think. - but no special deals on

Yes, Damn indeed. Back to seizing wire...

So what are people's preferences? Pros and cons? I'm not really aware of what all the pros and cons are, but if given the option, on an otherwise identical rig, what would you take? Fractional double swept spreader with babystay, 50/50 racing cruising.... btw.

looks great! Would you do a CO check after installing it?

Have people simply forgotten how to row?

The Stove I pictured was a Wallas, from Finland. But it does look blooody similar to the other one... http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=54 they also make ovens, I priced the oven and stove up a year or so ago. The combo came to about 3500... euro.. so yeah, not cheap. But nice. I'm told that they do put out enough heat even though the 1.9kW seems low, and have a relatively short warm up time. But it's not like gas, of course. But they are clean, look good, and are relatively light (compared to other things like the Dickinson stoves)

None of the above. This: is my pick of the bunch

Lead astray

Indeed, if it's a Spanish Galleon...

Pro tip. Take tea spoon, put it in cup of boiling water. remove from water and allow to cool to point where touching it only invokes mild screams (ie just not quite hot enough to burn you) Apply to wife's mosquito bites - 10 s per bite. Happy (happier) wife. Many venoms, being proteins and peptides, will irreversibly denature at around 80°C, some, unfortunately refold perfectly upon cooling and carry on like there was no problem. Sometimes you'll need higher temperatures... Should work for bee venom - I've never tried it though and can't find studies on the thermal dena

We sailed our 14 skiff back across the lake last year without a tiller. The rudder was still there, and I tried to chock it with my hand gripped to the top of the blade, but it basically just flapped around however it liked. About 2 miles of concerted crew and sail balancing, saw us eventually back at the dock. This year I might intentionally see how well we can maneuver sans rudder.

The first vid suggests decreased heeling of just 5° with the keel fully canted at whatever the initial (constant?) conditions were. I guess it's different boat to boat etc., but i somehow expected more. Interesting.

You'll need the turbine propellor to generate quite a lot of torque to overcome the 90° gearbox in the outboard, and if you gear it to make the alternator spin faster, you'll need more torque again. All the towing generators are based on direct drive without any gearing losses, I think. I really want to see how it works out with the converted outboard, though. Do it, do it, do it

Eric, I'm not sure your thinking is right on the prop size thing. The bigger the prop, the more leverage it will have to turn the flywheel. At least that's the way I see it. A high pitch with large surface area will give maximum push on the gearing... pitch will alter speed. Any one else got some numbers to clarify this?

Remember that life jackets must be worn when crossing a bar. Just as life jackets must be carried on all vessels and should be worn during periods of heightened risk. It's a pretty simple and easy rule. However, life jackets are not the cure to stupidity, and can and do cause accidents. Especially trapping people in inverted vessels or under things.