Winter

It is bloody brilliant, and Victrons willingness to open that up to rasp pi tinkerers is fantastic. the bmv 712 plus a rasp pi cant be beaten. puts Victron at the top of my list. their stuff is pretty good value!

Lateral I like your idea of an on off switch on the regulator supply, might try that. The graph is from a Victron 712, cabled into a Victron Venus GX which uploads data to the cloud, graphs are then from the Victron VRM portal See here https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/36577/advanced (not my boat)

Thanks IT, the reg shouldn't be cutting the alt to 80% as It is currently set as hot rated (see first post) No idea if it is hot rated either ,but it has always been set that way and hasn't died yet.. Alternator was a single V, I've recently changed it to twin V. I've got the datasheet for the batterys and have set the solar + shore power charging systems to the spec - but yeah, now being let down by poor alternator control. Here is todays efforts : You can def see the charge current drop off as the batteries SOC increases.

Bank is 250ah. Manual is here. http://www.cruzpro.com/sr20mano.pdf The settings you can change, Bank size, Alternator Size, 12/24v, Wet or Gel Type, Hot or Not Rated Alt No adjustment for volatages or times Think I need to find a smarter regulator, or build one. Have you seen these? http://www.wakespeed.com/ Started as an open source arduino based regulator that was infinitely configurable .

I have been watching closely my alternator performance recently, and I'm seeing some behavior I can't work out. I have no idea what the alternator is (its Bosch, but that's the only marking I could find) Alternator Controller is a CruzPro SAR20 (http://www.cruzpro.com/sar20.html) Batteries are AGM. New. Here is what I see : House set sitting about 12.75v, Start the engine. SAR20 puts no load on the alt for 60 seconds, then slowly loads it up over about 30seconds. Batteries start charging about 40a. After 15mins, the current drops to 3 or 4a Stop the engine, res

Thanks ex Elly. i suspect the people saying the island has no provisions for anyone are being untrue for some reason...

IT can you elaborate on your thoughts about the local store? I have probably got a bit over 4 weeks food aboard, and was not expecting to nip up to the shop every few days for some sugar for my tea, but I didnt think calling in after 2 weeks to get some more fresh veg / meat etc would cause them any harm? (distancing + mask and gloves) my understanding was the govt was paying for supply flights and the island has no shortage on goods. Infact, I would have thought the tiny shopkeep could do with the economic relief of a few extra shoppers? Food is essential, and so is trav

Stay well, well away from that stuff. I've seen it first hand. Doesn't work, and doesn't come off if you try remove it either...

I did RYA Coastal Skipper with Sail Nelson, and can easily recommend them. I think i'll go back there for the yachtmaster prep & exam.

I have an oldish raymarine ST2000 I could sell, I have been wanting to upgrade to the simrad with NMEA2000 Still in use, ill grab some photos tomorrow.

I have a spare (used) start button and key switch for a Yanmar 3GM if you want it

What is Atamai doing in Lake Pupuke?

Troubleshooting tips 'check the fuse' and 'ensure unit is not overheated' No mention of the USB port or software for configuration or diagnosis.. What I mean by I can't find much online, there is no forum with people raving about how great these units are, but there are also no forums with people ranting about how sh#t they are.. I was hoping to find information on common failures etc. I thought I was in for a PCB level repair, but everything seems to be in order, its just not sending the start signal..

Has anyone come across these generators before? Variable speed generator makes up to 400hz AC 3phase, which is then put through an invertor of sorts to make 230v 50hz. I have one here that the controller is failing to fire the start solenoid. Can't seem to find much online about them.

So further to this, Nobody has any comments or experience with Ritar batteries?

I guess that is true of all battery types? Most things get warm when you push power in/thru. My reading had suggested that the 20hr rate was the more common rate to measure batteries by? Although I guess that most load would be overnight - so maybe the 10hr is better. Regardless, that battery you suggest looks good, and yes more capacity, but unfortunately is too physically big. That was one of the things that attracted me to that Ritar battery I first linked - it has a very comprehensive PDS showing expected cycle life at varying depth of discharge. I am looking for b

Hi I'm replacing my house bank. Whats in there now is : 2x 130ah FLA https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/batteries-chargers/listing-2317895601.htm My Replacement choice currently is 2x of these https://www.thebatterycellonline.co.nz/product/1934302 12V 120ah SLA, VRLA, AGM sealed Battery RITAR F12 "DC" Can anyone comment on my choice? I want to move on from FLA, mainly because the house bank is in the cabin, (under a seat) and not really vented. I've also upgraded all my charging/MPPT/battery monitor setup to Victron products so I now have full co

there should be a breather pipe in head, which may have a gauze held in place by a cover which would may be held in place by a small machine screw? or part of air filter housing?

could be water in a cylinder, cant compress so piston stops dead. remove injector and you may be able to insert a straw

somewhat. If I want to replace I can use a brush like the one pictured, (taking care to attach my wire directly to the brush). OR I can remove the bond entirely, as my shaft and prop have an anode, and my engine has 3 internal anodes, so there would appear to be no real need to join them. Im going to replace the brush with a new one. seems to have worked ok in the past so Ill just fix up and tidy without reinventing the system here.. thanks to all for the advice and reading material.

Ah, well. Because the boat had a system when I bought it.. but its pretty crappy / broken, so I thought I should re-do it. And Its been not / poorly connected for a while and I ate through a shaft anode to near nothing in 18 months..

What are people using to bond prop shafts isolated by flexible couplers? something like this? Any better / worse ideas? https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/prop-nuts-kits/bep-bonding-shaft-brush?gclid=Cj0KCQjwvo_qBRDQARIsAE-bsH8lClQtkkZ7g5NgMf6yl1BAV5XESeL_jCAx-nEMoTP8K8yMKlBGtXEaAgzxEALw_wcB

His email address bounced back undeliverable..

Don't know him but I just emailed him to ask the question..

The fridge has two plugs? a 230v one and a 12v one? Can't you just leave them both plugged in, the fridge will likely prefer the 230v one over the 12v input. Which make/model fridge is it?