Island Time

No problem. Welcome aboard!

Hmm, did I not read this right? LiFePo4 makes an excellent house battery system if properly set up. Way lighter, way faster charge, no sulphation, does not need to be kept full, much more stable voltage, and much longer life. short term, if not keeping a boat, AGM. Long term, lead is dead! (Except for cranking/winch/thruster batts!

I’m no expert, but my understanding is that they spawn if scraped - in the water.

Yes. But NZ regs are not up to date with lithium batts yet. They likely will conform to the ABYC and European standards. Currently you must have an audible and visual alarm at the normal operation location of the vessel that warns the operator of a faulty and impending disconnect (bms turning the batt off for any reason). You also need to consider that standard batt fuses don't work, you need to upgrade to a fuse with AIC ratings of 20000 amps. That really means class T fuses. Alternators need to have temp sensing, so mostly that means external regulators like balmar or wakespeed.

South Pacific are fine...

Depends on the keel design. Most lagoon legs sit under the gunnels and have a for and aft guy to stabilize them. like this;

Hello Jack. There is no reason to post in multiple threads. Most users use the "unread content" button and will see your posts regardless of which forum or thread they are in.

Rubber nozzle on steel compressor, or a needle. Low pressure high volume pump if you don't have a compressor.

Who do you think was lobbying the Minister about this? The Minister removed the section about consultation as he believed it was not in the public interest. The remainder of the bill is before the house for third reading next week, then it will become law.

Well, CD, that's one paying attention

OK, the next big issue is the adoption of Kawau bay and Tiritiri Matangi as "high protection areas" - no take of any sort. These areas are large, and mean that locals with small boats will be unable to fish. This is NOT supported by Legasea, and is being pushed mostly by dept of conservation (dept of confiscation!) again with limited (very) consultation. There is really no such thing now as a marine reserve. "high protection" area status is in perpetuity. This will happen in the next week or so I'm told. I'm not against reserve areas, however they are labeled. Legasea say there are bette

Last night I went to a presentation at the Gulf Harbor Yacht Club by Scott Macindoe of Legasea. I thought I'd post a bit about it here. It was disappointing to see only about 40 people there. Do YOU care about the health of our oceans? It's important - possibly critical - for the health of our waters. In Parliament RIGHT NOW is the Fisheries Amendment Act. In this, the commercial fishing lobby had managed to get a section basically removing any requirement for public consultation for changes to the QMS (quota management system) or the quotas. This means that effectively the fishing

Viki, let me know what the deal is for a boat - in the front line. We'll book and pay as soon as it's available. Thinking of joining ICA as well...

Not just gst and duty, also clearance fees etc - allow a few hundy for that too. It mounts up pretty quickly..

Yep, full tent would have fixed it. Price to wrap was more than the whole paint job cost, incl hard stand! Could have made up something myself, but GH did not allow sufficient space around the boat for that without a substantial increase on hardstand fees.

Well, ready for relaunch tomorrow. I learned a few things that might be useful to others. 3 weeks full time work for one... September is probably about a month too early for outdoor painting. The nights (especially one - the most important one!) can be too cold. If the temp drops to dew point (actual temp depends on humidity and pressure) the gloss is lost. I lost some gloss in places on the hull due to this. Really I should have done a 3rd topcoat, to fix it, but no guarantees that would come out any better! So it is what it is. She looks pretty good from 3m, but a close inspection

Just to be clear to all; Interlux is international - their equivalent product is Perfection and Perfection Pro - a 2 pack polyurethane I'm using Altex - NZ made - 321 brushing polyurethane (also 2 pack) My understanding is that this is an issue with Polyurethanes, and would effect any paint of this type. Altex have said, if it happens again, a heavily thinned additional coat applied in the morning will set more quickly, and therefore retain the gloss. That will be tomorrow if needed. Hopefully not...

Funny you should say that. Last night about 6 there was a big temp drop and hard rain. Marked the hull with spots, and completely de-glossed the transom, esp the sloped parts. :-(. Another coat today, back to glossy, I hope that it will be off sufficiently tonight - looks like the dew point will be about 6 deg tonight, which is what the low is forecast to be. Here's hoping it will be OK - at least no rain forecast this time... Totally agree this problem should be in the literature, but its not anywhere I can see.

Yeah, the old Ozito vac. The sander is fine . Island Time is a Farr Phase 4 (very like a 1220..)

Just roll. My experiments in the workshop gave better results without tip...

Well, Island Time is long overdue for a repaint. A couple of weeks ago I made the call to paint her myself. I decided I could do the topsides 1st, and gave myself 3 weeks off work. Well, 15 days in, heaps of sanding, filling, priming, undercoating, and sanding. Oh yeah and sanding. I'm using the Altex system, epoxy undercoat and 321 brushing polyurethane. Following from the great job Joel did on his 1020, I've thinned the paints 7%. Seems to be working well. I also was using a cheap vac with my dewalt sander. It died of overuse. Upon advice from a friend who's a boat builder, I

Actually, internal pressure is not unknown. Boats falling off waves with hatches shut can produce sufficient pressure to blow out windows on occasion.

That'll work. For a structural repair, taper and overlap the glass. If you just want to fill the hole, find some suitable material (timber, foam) and use a hole saw to cut out a suitable size plug. Make it 5mm less deep than the thickness of the cabin top. Epoxy it in place, fill the cavity and fair (Vinylester filler is fine, dries in 20 mins, and sands well), paint to suit.

Ok, lets think about that. Your car (after 1996) runs on canbus. Do you have a backup for that? Canbus (NMEA2000) on a boat can be broken, but most of the the devices can work standalone, or you can detach a faulty device if needed. Worst case, if the network does go down, factory instrument panel still works, MFD works standalone, maybe no autopilot. Your engine instrument data wont display on NMEA2000 displays. You can still get by

The audible alarms and idiot lights are better than nothing, but by the time the oil pressure alarm (for example) goes while the engine is working hard, it's already too late...