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Anchor winch maintenance


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Several different ways of doing this. The denso tape is not the best. It is messy to work with and hard to seal up everything that is exposed.
I would go down the road of painting it. Here are some choices.

1: Rust remover, (usually Phosphoric acid) then paint with Cold Galv or Zinc Rich paint. If you want additional protection, you can also paint over the Cold Galv with a top coat. I would suggest a Zinc rich top coat like Galmet.

2: A Rust converter, This is a thick milky white liquid that dries black and converts rust to a hard paintable coating. Then apply a paint such as Galmet, Rustoleum, Hammerite to name a few.

3: Wire brush off the Rust and then apply a rust primer and then top coat like Hammerite, Galmet or Rustoleum.

4: Wire Brush off Rust and then apply any of the "all in one" top coats like Rustoleum, Hammerite, or Galmet. These do not actually require a primer. But being a harsh environment, I would suggest you do use one. Read the instructions as to what they recommend.

5: A more expensive option, although not horrific and gives an excellent finished result is to take it to someone that does Galv Metal spraying. You end up getting a finish as protective as actual Hot Dip Galv. There is one just around the corner from CRA, off Diana drive in Glenfield.

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4 minutes ago, Steve Pope said:

Is there a possibility that the heat from the galv spray equipment needed to melt the zinc wire might damage the windings, plus shouldn't it be garnet blasted first ? potentially allowing ingress of garnet dust into the commutator ?

Zinc Arc Spray is what Wheels is talking. Yes it would need a blast but then the coating goes on not that hot uses electricity to attract the iddy biddy things to it. We use it on the high tensile fittings we had to develop for use with our very high tensile anchor chains, the AQUA7 and now DAMS7 (steel, SS is only up to G60). Heat kills strength of high tensile so the spray works a treat and I'd very seriously not re-galvanise my anchor now, I'd zinc spray instead. Some of the fittings have stood up spectacularly well.

Denso tape is a NO, a big NO especially on newer motors. Denso holds heat so it can lead to premature thermal cut outs. They will auto reset once cooled enough but while that happens you may have a pile of rode still hanging over the bow.

I think I'd wire brush the bejesus out of it then follow No2 above, maybe 3 but I like the rust neutralising angle of option 2.  I'd then reinstall it and empty a can of CRC Soft Seal or something similar all over it and things around it, inc all wiring connections.

Motors can be reasonably cheap so before you though lots of coin at it maybe have a suss what a replacement would cost. If you think it maybe getting a bit far gone PM me with make and model and I can tell you what a replacement would cost. As I tell our people often, things like this are one in 10 plus year things so taking a few minutes to suss all options can often save you time and money. Thinking 'Life time cost' can save you a sh*t load more than a '20% off Sale'.

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1 hour ago, It Got said:

Zinc Arc Spray is what Wheels is talking. Yes it would need a blast but then the coating goes on not that hot uses electricity to attract the iddy biddy things to it. We use it on the high tensile fittings we had to develop for use with our very high tensile anchor chains, the AQUA7 and now DAMS7 (steel, SS is only up to G60). Heat kills strength of high tensile so the spray works a treat and I'd very seriously not re-galvanise my anchor now, I'd zinc spray instead. Some of the fittings have stood up spectacularly well.

Denso tape is a NO, a big NO especially on newer motors. Denso holds heat so it can lead to premature thermal cut outs. They will auto reset once cooled enough but while that happens you may have a pile of rode still hanging over the bow.

I think I'd wire brush the bejesus out of it then follow No2 above, maybe 3 but I like the rust neutralising angle of option 2.  I'd then reinstall it and empty a can of CRC Soft Seal or something similar all over it and things around it, inc all wiring connections.

Motors can be reasonably cheap so before you though lots of coin at it maybe have a suss what a replacement would cost. If you think it maybe getting a bit far gone PM me with make and model and I can tell you what a replacement would cost. As I tell our people often, things like this are one in 10 plus year things so taking a few minutes to suss all options can often save you time and money. Thinking 'Life time cost' can save you a sh*t load more than a '20% off Sale'.

I have a near new an RC 8-6 that will be for sale remember KM :-)    

(Being replaced by a Quick R1. kindly sourced for me by KM, & replacing only due to my want of a separate naval pipe / spurling pipe)

 

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Yes, it is really weird this Galv Arc spray. The Guy around the corner from CRA showed me it. He could spray the Galv onto a sheet of paper and nor burn the paper. Yet it applied to the surface of the metal part perfectly. The finish looks like Galv that has had it's surface sandblasted. Which of course is due to the little bits being sprayed on.
Just a heads up, the guy can spray all sorts of metal onto a surface and also he has a Teflon. I had alwasy wondered about spraying Teflon onto a Propeller.

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4 hours ago, wheels said:

Yes, it is really weird this Galv Arc spray. The Guy around the corner from CRA showed me it. He could spray the Galv onto a sheet of paper and nor burn the paper. Yet it applied to the surface of the metal part perfectly. The finish looks like Galv that has had it's surface sandblasted. Which of course is due to the little bits being sprayed on.
Just a heads up, the guy can spray all sorts of metal onto a surface and also he has a Teflon. I had alwasy wondered about spraying Teflon onto a Propeller.

Understood, I was unaware of Galv arc spray, I have a zinc spray gun, but it uses oxy, acetylene to melt the zinc. old tech now I guess.

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14 hours ago, vic008 said:

Well is that good to redo the anchorchain with?

Depends on what the cost would be, how good the chain is and wear of old chain vs cost of new Chain. KM has high quality chain at the such a good price, you may as well go new.
You need to check each link for wear on old chain. It is where the link joins the next that wears and if you have any wear at all. then the strength is compromised and it will not be fitting the Gypsy properly causing wear on that. It is not worth the hassle of getting re galved.

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15 hours ago, Steve Pope said:

Understood, I was unaware of Galv arc spray, I have a zinc spray gun, but it uses oxy, acetylene to melt the zinc. old tech now I guess.

They do use a very spray gun looking device in a very spray booth looking booth but there is some grid thing with wires which I think the target sits on and is 'charged'. The cool thing about this system is is goes around corners a bit so where traditional HDG struggles a bit the spray deals to very well. I shall suss some more for you, it is cunning. We often see some very techo looking bits from good sized machines being dealt to in there. See lots of augers, big ones, which combined with what we've seen on the gear done for us means the system provides a very hard wearing surface.

18 hours ago, vic008 said:

Well is that good to redo the anchorchain with?

I think it would be bloody good BUT can it be physically done is the question. With HDG you can jiggle the chain so it gets into the space between the links, not too sure how the spray would go there. Today I shall take down a piece of black (self-coloured, not galvanised) chain and have a chat for you Vic. It is somehtoing that has crossed my mind so it'll be a 2 birds visit.

Stand by.......

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