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primer before applying new antifoul?


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On 18/02/2021 at 5:11 PM, aardvarkash10 said:

sanding antifouling sucks.

IMG_20210218_165218.jpg

If you talk to the H&S department, you can get these full face visors that stop the toxic sh*t getting all over your face / eyes etc. Or you can get someone else to soda blast it for you...

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Just ordered Vivid on advice of a gent I trust.

And going straight over the water blasted then dry sanded remnants of Ultra2..... again on advice.

Having asked 35-40 boaters over the last 2 weeks I'm now 100% positive which works where does very much more depend on where it is than what it is.

 

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After rolling the second coat of ultra 2 and getting a slight paint speckle on my face i developed

a burning sensation. No prizes for guessing what that was from.

Old antifoul the biocide is probably mostly leached out.

 

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This was the information given to me by the Altex paint rep on scraping or sodablasting back to the gel coat:

If the scrapping method of removal is chosen and once all of the old antifouling has been removed it will leave a shiney finish on the grey primer undercoat, this must be removed , and we recommend machine sanding with 80 grit dry paper. This will remove the shine and yield a coarse surface texture for the new paint system to adhere.

·         Once the sanding is complete, remove all of the sanding dust, a wipe over with a damp cloth that has been dampened with fresh clean water. Wipe down so the surface is dust free and then allow to dry.

·         If any hull damage has occurred from the scrapper, or there is damage from other means spot fill these areas with two pack Epoxy filler, allow to cure over night, then sand flush with the surrounding surface and again dust off.

·         Once all of the surface preparation is complete, and the existing grey primer / undercoat has no adhesion issues, proceed with the mew paint system application. Mask along the water line with plastic masking tape if working outside.

·         Then by roller apply one full coat of No 1 epoxy primer mixed 4 to 1 with its converter, once mixed up to 5 % No 12 thinner can be added  to aid roller application. The practical coverage rate is approx 4.3 M 2 per mixed litre. Brush will be required to gain access in some locations, EG, skin fitting internals etc.

·         As soon as you can leave a thumb print in the No 1 epoxy primer ( 1 to 2 hours ) apply the first of two coats of No 5 Ablative Copper based antifouling colour Sea Green again by roller at 4.5 M  2 per litre per coat. Up to 5 % No 12 thinner can used in hot weather.

·         Allow the first coat of No 5 antifouling to dry overnight or longer, before appling the second coat at the same coverage rate. We suggest a third coat is applied to the Rudder, Keel, down the stem , around the waterline down about 350 to 400 mm and above the propeller.

·         A small brush will be need to apply the antifouling inside the skin fittings and other areas where a roller is unable to be used. Continue to stir the can to keep the ingredients in suspension. 180 to 200 microns of dry antifouling film build is required.

·         Once the new paint system has been applied allow at least 24 to 48 hours drying so the paint film dries hard and solvent free, this yields the best antifouling performance.

 

hope that helps. We took the Carpenter 29 back with Skoda blasting - worked really well. 
cheers

Paul 

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7 hours ago, Vivaldi said:

 back with Skoda blasting -

How many Skodas did it take and did the dealer do you a deal?

It must have been damn handy being able to drive that medium to the site considering you'd not get many in your boot ;)

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14 hours ago, KM... said:

How many Skodas did it take and did the dealer do you a deal?

It must have been damn handy being able to drive that medium to the site considering you'd not get many in your boot ;)

Ha!😀 yeah - good old predictive text.....

most Skodas should be blasted though - along with the Suzuki swift’s, Demeos,and the Kia police 👍 - buts another thread I think

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1st full coat of Vivid just went on. Looking not bad. Board looking 1000% better after some welding, bogging and a some poxy primer.

Pressure washed the old Ultra, sanded it, put a coat of vivid around water line and high wear places. 3 full over that in differing colours and should be good for a sail on Wednesday......if I can get the board back in which maybe fun, the not fun fun. 

3 hours ago, Vivaldi said:

most Skodas should be blasted though

many many years back in one of Dads 'i must have a weird car' phases, he had a couple, he got mum a Skoda, the old one with the wheels they were always on funny angles. Looked like crap but get it on the back roads and did it lite up a treat.  Crap on the seal but huge fun off it.

He also brought a few Ladas, one being the 2 door hatch thingy. I had to drive it to the Bay to meet the boat and wasn't looking forward to it. sh*t in 1st, crap in 2nd but 3rd holly crap it could pull a container ship with ease but get to 4th and back to crap again. Gave a Cossack he had arse, it handled it very well.

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3 hours ago, Black Panther said:

My wife drives a Suzuki Swift, so wondering exactly what is wrong with it?,?

No offence intended. It’s just a bit of a joke I have calling them Suzuki police or Kia police as they are often driving down the Hutt highway side by side at 90k with a big line of cars behind them. Making sure everyone is obeying the law. 

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4 hours ago, Vivaldi said:

No offence intended. It’s just a bit of a joke I have calling them Suzuki police or Kia police as they are often driving down the Hutt highway side by side at 90k with a big line of cars behind them. Making sure everyone is obeying the law. 

So you know my wife?

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mechanical sanding vastly improved by the use of a near-disposable drywall sander.

Ozito is Bunnings house brand of cheap nasty power tools, but at only $159 retail this 225mm random orbital drywall sander is great for this purpose.  It has built in dust extraction so you dont need a big workshop vacuum and much to my surprise this feature worked fine.  It comes with a pack of shitty cheap velcro discs in almost entirely the wrong grit range (150 to 400) but getting 80 and 120 grit discs isn't a problem.

You wouldnt want to put it to a professional work program, but for this one-off (and the bonus that I got it at a large discount off a certain buy/sell website familiar to NZ residents) its fine.  I reckon it will do two or three more before it lets all its smoke out.

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On 6/03/2021 at 5:41 PM, aardvarkash10 said:

mechanical sanding vastly improved by the use of a near-disposable drywall sander.

Ozito is Bunnings house brand of cheap nasty power tools, but at only $159 retail this 225mm random orbital drywall sander is great for this purpose.  It has built in dust extraction so you dont need a big workshop vacuum and much to my surprise this feature worked fine.  It comes with a pack of shitty cheap velcro discs in almost entirely the wrong grit range (150 to 400) but getting 80 and 120 grit discs isn't a problem.

You wouldnt want to put it to a professional work program, but for this one-off (and the bonus that I got it at a large discount off a certain buy/sell website familiar to NZ residents) its fine.  I reckon it will do two or three more before it lets all its smoke out.

Where did you get the 225mm discs from?

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