wheels

Absolutely. It's weired that in that state of Panic, I did everything I shouldn't have. If this story was from anyone else, I would be saying, no you idiot, you don't ever put yourself in such a dangerous situation.

That sounds more like what I would expect.

Yes me. I have had two batteries explode over the years. 3 actually as one was a bank of 2x 6V tractor batteries. The bang was defening and left my ears ringing for days. There was nothing left of the batteries apart from some lead cells. Brand new and huge things. Yet not one drop of acid or battery had touched me, yet the explosion had bent the bonnet of the Tractor. I watched a guy in the yard I worked in, hook up huge jumper cables to a big dozer and he got them around the wrong way. There was a huge explosion of "stuff" and the cable clamps had cut clean through the Terminals. Y

Yeah it's the big six oh this Saturday. Mind and Body went off in two different directions. Still think i'm 25, but body likes to remind me very quickly that isn't correct.

Yeah yeah, don't rub it in My error really came about from not being part of the whole thread. I made a couple of posts and simply had in my mind we were discussing Lithium ion Batteries and I then made the comment. Not wrong in my comment, but I wasn't on the same page of where the discussion had evolved to we could say. Hey, it's a good excuse anyway.

sigh...I'm not keeping up with the new tech and information as well as I used to. Been too busy on other things and getting too old.

I had provided a photo of a car on fire on the road between here and Nelson in the forum that no longer exists unfortunately. I will see if I can find the original and post it again. People fired that many fire extinguishers into it, yet it burned away unempeded. The car was nothing more than ashes and 4 shock struts sticking up. How about the Cars onboard that Delivery Vessel. All $450 milion of them that are now with Ship at bottom of sea. Boeing 787's had huge problems with the first lot of batteries on their aircraft. You only have to do a google of Aircraft and batteries fires to find

Do not assume all LiFePo4's are "bullet" proof. It depends purely on quality of manufacture whether the battery has potential of explosion/fire or not. Many Cars with this technology have burned to ash. Remember the early issues of Aircraft using these. The safety comes about from both the way the internals are made and the levels oif lithium and some other factors. So yes they can be made " bullet" proof, but those ones cost more as well. Cheap can be dangerous.

LPG cylinders cannot explode. Even in a fire, it takes a long time to create the pressure for the rupture disc to finally give out. At that point, the gas vents in a controlled manner till empty. There is no oxygen inside the tanl that can allow the Gas to ignite internally. Gas explosions on Vessels are usually always from Gas that has leaked from some point in the system and settled to the lowest point of the boat and then an ignition source has ignighted it. Once Lithium Batteries do catch fire for what ever reason, it is pretty much impossible to put them out. Lithium reacts when in

I think creative marketing is a good description. It runs in the game as "Nano technology" I suspect, which is a term many have jumped onto the band wagon with. Polar bonding, also known as Molecular bonding is complex and there is 64 different types of bonds. In simple terms, it is the reason why different Atoms can come together to create a totally different element. Classic example would be, 2 Hydrogen Atoms bonded to an Oxygen Atom which creates a water molecule. But in the case of this coating, i suspect it is in reference to a charge causing an attraction between Atoms in the coating a

I stumbled upon this looking for a water pump. Has anyone ever used it or know about it? Sounds very interesting. It thought maybe a good protectant for the outboard etc. Maybe even for the mast being discussed in the other thread about a mast. I would love to hear if anyone has tried it. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/home-living/heating-cooling/heaters/heat-pumps/listing/3498175847?bof=QSmBDMHR

I no longer have ears on the inside, so am not sure what the political mix is. Sea Barrier 3000 is sold under both Altex and Carboline names. Resine Paints own Altex and import Carboline products. The yard I used to use told me the Carboline range was the commercial range and the Altex was Retail. But even that info is some 5yrs old now. So I cannot say for sure how it all works. However and this is just suspicion, I expect that with all the changes in regs for antifoul mixes, that instead of Altex inventing a new product, which would be costly, they likely bought rights to market one her

Yeup, the Carboline tends to be the commercial version. Smallest you can get it is a 20ltr as far as I know. And it is much cheaper than buying it as Altex 5

Some good answers already. I can only add a little extra to a few of them. Ensure spark gap is correct. 0.4 to 0.6mm. The plug should be a BR6HS When you lay the engine down, you always ensure the cylinder is pointing up. In other words, the spark plug is at the top. Make sure you are using the correct oil the manufacturer says to use and ensure the system is not over fill. There is little "window" on the side to ensure correct level. 10W-30 or 10W-40 is the norm. There is an Oil blowby scavenging system that uses a part of the head to remove the oil droplets from the fumes and only a

The "shedding" happens with any brand. it is the type of material used. Open Ocean gear is great new. But no one ever has said it it great for long term use. So be aware, the cost far outweighs the return you will get. Last year I bought a High Vis jacket directly from the manufacturers here in NZ. They advertise on Trademe. It was a factory second. Supposedly had a slight mark. I could hardly see it. It is a fanstastic Kacket that I paid $35 dollars for. It is not lined with the Fleece, but it does have the inner lingins to promote air movement and reduce moisture from a sealed outer fabr

I think this discussion is now at a point of requiring a nuetral Professional to take a look and make a comment directly to you and maybe yard. It is completely impossible for a bunch of people on a Forum, not understanding the entire story and background, to make accurate comments from just one or two photos. It is unfair on the People that have carried out the work and unfair on you the owner, as we are likely to lead you astray. You really need a professional opinion that then discuss a recourse with the yard that did the work. There are several professionals on this Forum that are expert

The only issue with any waterproof type fabrics is that when poking a needle into the fabrick, you create holes water will seep through. You can spray a water proofing compound over the repair, but it will be visible. A product is available that canvas workers use to waterproof seems. But a tin of it is waaay too much for a little repair. The product is pretty much the clear stop leak in a spray can you see advertized. A light spray of that will seal the stitching for you. It's just a flexible Polyurathane skin coating. You could create a little puddle of it a small container and use a finger

I just do not see how doing anything.....Vibration, hammering, levering.... anything is going to do that kind of damage. It really does not make sense. So jut to be clear, the Glass below is OK, this is just the Paint layer only? Does the paint want to peel off the glass?? It must be a very brittle Two pot Urathane to crack like that. Gelcoat is brittle, but still takes a lot to cack it. Urathane would need far more flex to crack it. I find it hard to believe anyone could apply enough movement to make it crack that way. The only time I have ever seen long linear cracks like that has been

Let me put it another way. There is absolutely no way someone could do this scrapping the sealant away from the substrate. Does the crack run deep enough to go right through the Glass cloth, or is it just the surface Paint or whatever it is? The places the cracks show are most certainly around the edges of the heavy build up areas. This certainly suggests a difference in movement of two differing components below. Are you absolutely sure the interior is Polyurathane?? It certainly looks more like Gelcoat or Flowcoat to me. I did not realise the Boat was 22yrs old. That age, it is a won

I have seen this kind of thing before. Firstly, it is not structural. Nor is it the fault of the Yard/person working on the windows. They are correct that it is a build issue, but in saying that, it is not due to poor build quality as such. Basically what is happening is the Gelcoat has cracked at a point were two substrates have an ever so slight different rate of expansion when heating/cooling. Or one part flexing not quite so much as the other due to Hull movement. We are talking only fractional amounts, but enough to cause stress cracks like this. Note that the cracks are around the

One of the biggest problems with the the quad diaphragm pumps is the little diaphragms can pull out of place. They have a little centre spigot thing that pushes into a hole to keep the little diaphragm positioned. The number of times I have found pumps that have spat that spigot out of the hole has been numerous. Once that happens, the diaphragm will not seal and the water pressure runs back through the pump when it stops. However, the results in the pressure dropping, thus pump starting and repeating cycle constantly. If that is not happening, then you have another problem. The water should n

An Accumulater only acts as a shock absorber. It's stops the pump from "chattering" on switch off. It also smooths the water flow a little. The pressure on the other side of the diaphragm is just air. You set them up by pressurising the thing with the same air pressure as the water pressure switch on the pump is at. The Water pressure always remains at whatever that cut out point is, when it switches off. You can also get accumulators without the pressure bag, but they need continual bleeding of water to keep air in them. The Air dissolves into the Water under pressure and the airspace demin

Does this run from Pump to Filter, hence length? Because that's a long hose. Do you really need a spare. How long did the old one last? Yes $250 is probably about right, although on the higher end of about right. You might find cheaper if you looked hard enough. But not a huge saving. I imagine the SST fittings will be unique to the Watermaker. Another way of doing it is to change out the fittings and go to what BP has. High pressure plastic tubing. You would likely then use something like Swagelock fittings. They are expensive to change over too, but the tubing is cheaper and easy to

Psyche, the thread has got confusing in that there are now two seperate boats or sailings being discussed. This "Greg" and the original Bee Barge or whatever the heck it is. I think the Bee Barge is sailing across today. Anyone in Picton today that might be able to go take a look and a photo??

Looking at the picture of "Greg", I thought yikes. Grant, same thoughts about it being a Barge. I couldn't think what the heck the guy was referring to in relation to "Bee Barge" though. But he seemed to be suggesting two different group sizes. I went hunting for that "Add" to read it again, but couldn't find it. I though maybe someone here might recognise some detail in it the rest of us don't. Oh well, as you say, the muppets are going to cross no matter what. It's a pity the weather is looking reasonable for today. But it will be a different story for anyone going across Saturday and