Farrari 4 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 I have a fixed boom vang on my Farr 1020 that I ripped the spring out of a while back because it was rusty and it was lightly too long. I couldn't control the leech sufficiently while racing as when the spring was fully compressed I could never get enough tension. So I have a few questions. 1. How do I figure out the correct length / size other than trial and error? 2. Are there any downsides in using a stainless spring vs. ??? (I assume stainless is an option) 3. Where could I get such a spring made? 4. Are there any other practical options other than a spring? Someone mentioned using squash balls as an option? 5. Should I HTFU and remove the fixed vang? Any help appreciated. Steve Link to post Share on other sites
Jon 360 Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Hi Steve Been down this track before and the problem with SS is it doesn't make very good springs as it's too brittle or a one off was going to be close to the cost of the boat. What I did was get the old spring acid dipped then sprayed with a steel primer then top coat, but the trick is to make sure the water can't sit in it as this is what creates the problem as the hole gets blocked and it will happen all over. What I did was got the vang remade so the larger outer tube was on the top and the smaller plunger tube on the bottom then it drains naturally unless your in a lot of trouble then it will be the last thing that you will be worrying about. I've also heard of the squash ball trick but it was after I had rebuilt mine, sounds good and not to expensive to give it a crack first. Hope this helps Link to post Share on other sites
Changed 10 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 I have added squash balls to beef up the compression on mine. Great because you just add what you need. Wild Thing had the idea. Link to post Share on other sites
Chewing Gum 17 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 We have had a steel spring for a long time and it was a bit rusty, just painted with antirust paint and then coated with antirust grease. lanolin grease would probably be good. Must say I haven't checked it for a long time - perhaps I should Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 Thanks Guys I might try putting a wooden dowel in for a hard stop and top it up with squash balls as a cheap starter. Otherwise it sounds like I'm going to need to get another spring made and ensure it coated so as not to rust further. Steve Link to post Share on other sites
Bogan 8 Posted October 21, 2014 Share Posted October 21, 2014 Personally I ditched the whole setup. It was just a bloody heavy piece of kit that was useful for all of two minutes when hoisting the main. Can't say we've missed it so far, but can't say we're any quicker either.... Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 I'm less worried about racing and I have done without it for a couple of years now. This year it will be only the wife and I out cruising and I like the idea of being able to throw a reef in single handed and not have to muck around with a topper. Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 I had SS springs for my vang made up in Auckland, several, mainly because it didn't make any difference to the price, around $200.00 for 1 or $200.00 for 3 or maybe it was 4. PM me with the measurements (length, dia, and wire thickness etc.) and I will fossic around to see where I put the surplus ones. Link to post Share on other sites
Farrari 4 Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 Yes please. I'll run a ruler over my old rusty spring and PM you. Steve Link to post Share on other sites
wheels 543 Posted October 22, 2014 Share Posted October 22, 2014 Call KM. We had springs custom made for us from a place in Wellington and they were not too expensive. As already stated though, the cost per spring reduces as the quantity increases. A one off spring is expensive because it takes the same time to set the machine up either way. I have heard the Squash ball idea working too, but never tried it. One make of Vang uses Gas struts and that was what I used when I made mine. I fitted two in parallel. But I had the struts and I custom made the unit. To buy them is expensive, they eventually fail and it would be really difficult retrofitting. Link to post Share on other sites
strath 4 Posted October 27, 2014 Share Posted October 27, 2014 Hi Farrari I have the Farr 1020 Azure which has a fixed boom vang. As you describe, my vang was bottoming out when sheeting the main on hard. It was a while back, but I finished up cutting about 25mm off the vang inner tube as I found the tube was bottoming out and not the spring. My advise is pull the boom down, until it bottoms out, without the sail up and measure from the boom to the cockpit floor. Then remove the spring, re-assemble the vang and see if the boom comes down any further. My steel spring was rusty, I just cleaned it up and coated it in CRC soft seal, and it has been fine for ten years. Just make sure the drain hole at the bottom of the vang is kept clear. You are welcome to come and have a look at the boat. or call me 029 297 7705 Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.