Bimini Babe 0 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Apologies if this has come up before, but what's the best (cheapest!) place to buy Harken winch servicing kits, or their constituent parts? I found a place in the UK that does kits with pawls and springs for about 15 quid each, but the postage to NZ is crippling, or alternatively I could get family in the UK to post them cheaper, so 2 kits would be about NZ$70 all up. However, with that option I'd be subjected to a loooong wait before they arrived, and by that time I fear any desire to service my winches may well have abandoned me! Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Some answers from me, in no particular order: - the kits (of any brand and not necessarily limited to winches either) seem to be the most expensive way to buy the parts you need. In a perfect world, you would check what is required and buy only that much, plus a couple of spares. I realise that is not particularly practical, given that it requires you to pull apart winches - my observation would be that the pawls and springs seem to be pretty much of a universal design across the brands (others may disagree). Most chandleries also stock them - prices still eye-watering though - ours are Barlows and I have purchased parts from Oz - great people to deal with but prices still - I think Gappy responded (in relation to Lewmar parts) last time this topic came up and he may be able to do something better for you, as he often does for people on this site. Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Give the boys at Harken NZ a call. From memory they sell the servicing kit as well as individual parts? And as the NZ agent will be alot cheaper than buying them from chandleries i think. (They used to be fosters chandlery) http://www.fostersshipchandlery.co.nz/ Link to post Share on other sites
Bimini Babe 0 Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 In a perfect world, you would check what is required and buy only that much, plus a couple of spares. I realise that is not particularly practical, given that it requires you to pull apart winches I'd always sort of assumed that servicing winches was a bit like changing a cam belt - some bits might not look like they need replacing, but probably best to replace them at the same time anyway, to avoid potential problems down the line? Worst nigthmare = having to take winches apart TWICE in one season... - my observation would be that the pawls and springs seem to be pretty much of a universal design across the brands (others may disagree). Most chandleries also stock them - prices still eye-watering though Anyone else wanna back this up or dispute? If that's the case, I'll happily buy cheaper alternatives! Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 In a perfect world, you would check what is required and buy only that much, plus a couple of spares. I realise that is not particularly practical, given that it requires you to pull apart winches I'd always sort of assumed that servicing winches was a bit like changing a cam belt - some bits might not look like they need replacing, but probably best to replace them at the same time anyway, to avoid potential problems down the line? Worst nigthmare = having to take winches apart TWICE in one season... Again others may have a different view but it isn't like a cam belt to me - most of the parts are large and relatively simple once you get them apart and other than pawls, springs and a restrained amount of grease, they are not likely to pull a swifty on you. I agree that pre-emptive maintenance is good but given the prices...I think I bought eight pawls when I really only needed four...it is like anything really. Link to post Share on other sites
Grinna 2 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Winches, being mechanical, you can see the wear and play with the bits to feel and see whther things are working right or not. With cambelts, its a rubber belt that may look fine but in 2 weeks time just snap for no apparent reason. Pulling the winches apart isn't that bad is it? OK, its not something you want ot do all the time, but it doesn't take that long to pull each winch apart and have a look. Its the clean up of the greasy bits that's time consuming. Link to post Share on other sites
wal 27 Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Fosters have all you need right on the counter. Pawl oil (got some meself just the other day) pawls and springs with the winch grease etc all in a nice little display box. If you fall down the stairs you'll bang right into it Some of their winches - mine being self tailing 32s are in the range - need to be unbolted from the deck to get at the central gears and pawl springs. It was my general laziness in avoiding this action nearly caused me a broken thumb due to backwards spinning freewheeling winch handle Link to post Share on other sites
Bimini Babe 0 Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 Yep, same dealio with mine wal, hence my reluctance to do the job. Will check out Fosters tho, cheers. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Yep, same dealio with mine wal, hence my reluctance to do the job. Will check out Fosters tho, cheers. one way of looking at it is while unbolted and bits all over the cockpit floor the likelyhood of an unwanted kersplosh has been greatly reduced and a decent wash for the bits is on as well, had a lot of success with either wynns oil additive as well as 90w gear oil for race boats though does need regular repeats.......always chop down a 20litre pail for winch work.......saves a shitload of grief Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 or pay a friendly rigger to sort it out... Far easier Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 winch pawls are generally the hardest part in a winch & unless the edges are worn / chipped (unlikely) they shouldn't need replacing, you may need to replace the odd spring but generally they only hang up if they have been greased with a heavy grease which makes their movement sluggish especially on cold days, A very light grease is OK. I use Spectro chain wax (motorcycle, spray on) which works very well. Grease the rest of the winch with a good quality waterproof grease or specific winch grease generally available from your chandler. In my experience as already stated most winches all use the same pawls. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 If you are on passage and it starts to stiffen up, hit it with CRC, it will thin the old crappy grease and get you home, then strip it and do the job properly. Doing it yourself gives you understanding of what's in there, always a good thing. Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Rocket Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 I do the Harken winches on one of the boats I sail. Pawls may be universal but the only time I found a broken pawl Harken guys went oops they shouldn't break and gave the owner a replacement. I would always get the bits intended for that winch - could easily be different metals/minor differences... No unbolting required on the ones I work on - they come apart with an allen key. You can check for wear by inspecting and feeling for a lip. There are no parts I can think of that you would replace "just in case". Takes a couple of hours to do a winch properly (I know cos I did the entire MRX fleet once). But a bit of lazy love in the form of a swipe of fresh grease (50:50 mix of winch grease and 3 in 1 oil) on the main bearings a couple of times a year doesn't go astray. I trim so it is easy to keep a really close eye on the primaries and will panic if there is even a hint of a pawl sticking (or if the keyboard guy start to moan about the cabin top ones). Fixing things before there is a problem is smart - if they stop working well fix em - your tailing will be faster, the grinding less grunty etc. Minimal grease in there and finer oil is all that should go on or around pawls yadda yadda... I have no training have always just treated a winch like I would a motorbike gearbox. Geez squid WD40 or CRC??? I wouldn't let that stuff near an expensive winch. It is penetrating oil and will remove everything and just leve a fine dusting of metal that will consume the bearing surfaces. I suppose you might do that to get home but why not just wipe with a paper towel and coat in new grease - would take the same time.... Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 That's why I said do it right when you get home. I've done itwhen I have picked up a boat for delivery , after 2 days they were stiff as hell, gave them a spray rather than disassemble at sea. When opened the CRC had barely made a dent in the thick sludge in there, plenty of time to clean and grease before any damage was done. I suppose a relatively unusual situation, do it on the dock and do it right, most common error is too much grease. Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Pope 243 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Some winches have uncaged rollers, I have seen a drum being carried of a boat for cleaning out and the rollers quietly trickling into the sea. Bugger!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Fogg 427 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 This is definitely something I need help with. I've pulled apart my primaries a couple of times, removed obvious muck n stuff, cleaned up, applied healthy smearing of winch grease (the stuff that costs a king's ransom per tube)... but the benefits only seem to last about 5 mins before the winch reverts to it's clunky sound and action. I do need help from someone who knows what they are doing so I can watch and learn. Link to post Share on other sites
Grinna 2 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Bearings and bearing surfaces need grease, but pawls and springs shouldn't be greased ... they should be oiled with a light oil. At least, that's what I was taught. Happy to be proven incorrect. Link to post Share on other sites
Marshy 30 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 This is definitely something I need help with. I've pulled apart my primaries a couple of times, removed obvious muck n stuff, cleaned up, applied healthy smearing of winch grease (the stuff that costs a king's ransom per tube)... but the benefits only seem to last about 5 mins before the winch reverts to it's clunky sound and action. I do need help from someone who knows what they are doing so I can watch and learn. Im happy to come help out and show you how its done AC - Just make sure the fridge is cold and full, and that its a nice sunny day! Link to post Share on other sites
Clipper 343 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 Bearings and bearing surfaces need grease, but pawls and springs shouldn't be greased ... they should be oiled with a light oil. At least, that's what I was taught. Happy to be proven incorrect. Also what I was taught Link to post Share on other sites
Murky 1 Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 One of the previous threads FWIW: viewtopic.php?f=47&t=15448&p=165057#p165057 Link to post Share on other sites
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