Ex SanFran

Fenders are a little low on pressure. I'm guessing I need one of those football needle valve thingies to inflate them back him to a reasonable pressure? The gas station air pump doesn't seem to do the trick by itself. Any ideas, suggestions...

Absolutely. Been a bit coolish lately but still keen to get out. I'm on the haul out Crew at HMB, and planning to come out probably Oct or Nov for a week or so. Otherwise, here comes summer

Great story. I have a Spencer 32. First boat of substance. Still having fun with her after 10 years.

And making them..., if u use, then what length is best to make.

Does anyone use these on their headsail sheets? How good are they? Particularly when tacking? What size is best? Thinking 6mm being a total of 12mm holding power. Do you leave the on when furling and after putting the boat to bed?

What an excellent question.... I need this too

Awesome thanks. I'll check it out

Anyone know of the best way to remove abrasions to compass glass? Thinking of cut and polish paste with a buffer tool?

All good replies. Thanks

Yes I've exposed a small area around the fix. Sounds like the plan. Evadure first?

Just been hauled out. Have a very minor break in the glass over ply hull, below waterline causing a slight weep. I see water has come in through a fixing, where two sheets of ply join. I've caught it reasonable early thankfully, as the ply seems quite solid, apart from around the fixing copper nail, about 1-2mm. I appreciate that it's old marine ply but I'm happy it's not compromised (too much anyway) After drying it out I plan to 1. Evadure the ply 2. Repair the f.glass with cloth 3. Two pot undercoat 4. Antifoul. Anyone have thoughts on this process pl

This year, to be different, I'm going to out two coats of different AFs on each side, just to see how easy goes. I usually go with No 5 but in Tamaki River it just don't last.

Still available? I need to do a small fix ☺

Great article. Having an engineers mind helps.

It shouldnt cost ratepayers anything. Dont you recall a couple of years back every mooring owners annual fee being increased by $50? That was to cover the cost of removing all those old shitters. Have any been removed?

From the cross trees. Yep, thought I'd better do it right.

Yup. See that now, but realised too late. So the idea is to not let the stay turn while tightening.

Had a new mast stepped 6 months ago. Was out for a fish and sail a couple of weeks ago when the leward stay clevis pin ? holding the bottle screw to the chainplate, decided the bottom of the ocean was a better place to be. No idea what happened to the split pin, just gone. Fortunately I had a spare pin to use. Quite a fright really when you see the stay swinging in the breeze, unattached at the base. Couple of things here.... other than being pissed off at the riggers. 1. Is split pins better, or ss mousing wire that goes through the stay end, and right around the turnbuck

Yikes... the list goes on

All great responces, thanks, i'm wondering if the motor can be withdrawn underneath without the top drum being loosened?

No, it's a flat top, and for rope only, no chain gypsy. I'm guessing Noah traded it in.

It's got to have been many moons over the yard arm since the anchor winch was last given a birthday. Before my time anyway. I'm not sure what brand it is, possibly Maxwell, but the only thing I can see to dismantling it is a straight head screw centre top of the bronze turny thing. I've tried, but it won't budge. Impact screw driver? Or do I just leave It? Dont futz around with what ain't broke. It's just that it's pretty slow now, but still pulls the anchor up. Thoughts anyone?

Bucks hard stand at Grangers Point.

Sorry, gotta say, one ugly rudder. I can see why you want to go back to original. Can't help, but good luck

I had a ss one made. Lasted a good 7 years, and just starting to fail now. I gave them the flange to work off and they did the rest for about $120. Well worth it.