Frank

I have read recent news articles on the unfortunate loss of Waimanu, a Townson 32. It seems that she was punching into a decent sea and a shroud let go, then the collapsed mast punched a hole in the hull etc. Can anyone confirm the point of failure of the shroud ie, was it that..... - The chain plate tore free of the hull. - The hull structure failed around the plate - The chain plate fastenings failed. - The wire parted at the swage or failed in itself. Just curious as it may have implications for other boats of a similar vintage and construction.

We bought a 38 ft ocean going Yacht in very good nick. 140K. Even so it will be 160k or more by the time it's back in blue water mode.

I think you need to narrow it down a bit as that is actually quite a big size bracket and so price range as well. If he is tired of DIY and does not want a Shitter then he should get a well equipped and maintained 32 to 34 ft GRP vessel for that sort of money, nothing bigger in my experience.

Funny that, I own one !. Stormy Dawn won the RNI race.

Agree ! and I have had a similar experience to Chariot looking at a boat in Havelock Marina, the interior joinery was very "Amateur Hour" It Looked fine on Trade Me though, so yes photos hide a lot IMO, a good broker that you know and trust is the key.

I just binned my Dacron Windward sails no3 after 25 years , was toast for racing after 6 but did the job for cruising thereafter.

Anecdotally boats that are mint and present well, no matter what age still seem to move smartly, our new Hood 38 a case in point. But they are in the minority and there is a lot of tired stock needing thousands spent of them due to decades of deferred maintenance and equipment upgrades. Case in point, older boats tend to have underpowered engines, replacing that can be half the value of the boat, before you even start on Electronics, running and standing rigging, sails, deck equipment, hull jobs etc etc. If you can find the boat that has had money and attention lavished on it , t

Mmm I think those are the submersible types.

That looks like a real grunter , might be a bit much, I'll check out Burnsco on the weekend.

Got a new boat last weekend and it looks like the pump that drains the shower sump is not up to the job. Its not an immersion pump but sits about 400 mm above the pan with a hose to the sump. There is the usual coarse and fine filter set up, neither are blocked. Any suggestions as to a good model/type of pump for this application ? chrs

The NRC are not a fan of worms ...sorry, couldn't resist :-I

I had a quote for a stack pack on a 38 ft masthead yacht, its about $1800 with sunbrella.

I have had a similar experience, what was quoted over the phone was the price of the materials but not the labour. The final price was double what I thought, it was poor communication on both parts.

My Volvo MD 7B is still doing sterling work , DOM circa early 80's ? Had new injectors and the head re-built last year... hours ? god knows, Oh and sea water cooled !

Damn good boats those, still quick even today.

We used to strap the spinnaker sheet well fwd to stop the kite oscillating,it certainly helped. When I asked a sailmaker for a quote for a "Bag" recently he said he hadn't heard that term for a long time and had made nothing but asymmetrics for years.

Out of curiosity what sort of money would we be talking about for a stack pack on a 40 ft yacht ? Just wondering if anyone has a rough idea, i'll get a quote at some stage.

Nice work ! I will read that book !

The bird problem seems to come and go on my boat, some seasons there is nothing and then for some random reason they become a problem again. Terns nesting in the folds of the mainsail have been a hassle. Now I cinch the boom cover tight with bungee and that problem is fixed. Other people tie a line about 6 inches above the boom and string bird netting over it and down to the lifelines and it works well but it is a hassle to rig.

The problem for the brokers to be fair is "Tyre Kickers" and unrealistic vendors, both are time wasters and I have certainly been guilty of the former. I'm not saying some of the criticisms here are unfair but maybe the prospective buyers should be a wee bit honest with themselves too , just saying .

Good Book that .

its a good point, I need to do more research, It will most likely have tempered glass panels fwd facing so vis through the dodger should be very good. For a clearer view I expect to be looking to oneside when seated or over the top perhaps by standing on the cockpit seat. Another possibility re the height over the companionway would be to have an additional moulded "blister" to avoid bumping your head . Its kind of hard to draw here but standing in the cockpit looking at the rear edge of the dodger you would see a double bubble curve.

Right On !

Nice job ! I'm planning on using the same construction technique on a hard dodger for a 38 ft yacht. Its always going to be difficult to get good proportions on a small yacht such as the Nova. I might have put more curvature in the roof so you retain the height over the companion way but the outer edge is lowered. But hey when your coming back from man-o-war bay in a howling SW you will be way more comfortable.