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Frank

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Everything posted by Frank

  1. Well ours did , the main feed from the bottle is solid copper with a yellow plastic sleeve but the connections at either end are flexible.
  2. Casting the net a bit wide on this one which is somewhat of a long shot but maybe somebody can help. So I have a Volvo MD7B (3000 series) in the Carpenter 29 its mated to a 120S saildrive.(SD) I'm considering fitting a low hrs Volvo 2002 engine and I'm told by the agency that it will bolt straight on. However after careful study I can see there will be a problem with the flywheel housing hitting the top of the SD plinth. The reason is quite straightforward in that the MD7B has the flywheel at the front of the motor but the 2002 has it at the rear, so there is more of the engine protruding
  3. Diving for scallops at kawau a large pod came over and essentially harassed us for an hour, my son got some great underwater footage. They come so close but somehow they always avoid contact even when they are right in your face, amazing creatures.
  4. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    I have brought some of the new gen Tri-lux 2 , it is a hard AF for anything Aluminium and has some sort of Copper based compound in it. I'm no chemist but I guess it is in some form where It won't cause the Aluminium to corrode, we will see how it goes on the bulb and the sail drive. Speaking of which what do folks recommend for gluing the fairing Boot to the hull ? I have used one of the Sikaflex compounds in the past it was OK but still needs re-doing after 4 - 5 seasons.
  5. Frank

    Heat exchanger

    Chrs, I will get hold of them !
  6. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    I will try the Vivid Petit on the bulb, something bright , maybe the barnacles wont like the colour.
  7. Frank

    Heat exchanger

    Hi Matt, et-al. Well I have the earlier 3000 series MD7B which is still a good runner but raw water cooled. I'm going to convert it to fresh water cooled. So if you see a suitable heat exchange somewhere please let me know of you there is an outfit that could build one ? chrs
  8. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    Looks like this stuff might be the closest. https://altexcoatings.co.nz/frontend/products.cfm?page=product&productid=3
  9. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    That looks to be an Aluminium- safe product,ie no copper, the bulb is the worst part of the boat for barnacles, I'm not sure it would work out for my situation.You have given me a thought though, perhaps copper coat might do the trick.
  10. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    Looking on the website that seems to be ablative.
  11. Frank

    Hard Antifoul

    Everything seems to be ablative these days, I need some hard black AF for the bulb and lower part of the keel. Does anyone know where I might get some ? chrs
  12. I have a mate who has tried Black Pipe, he found it to be O.K but no better than cast iron, I haven't used it but that was his feedback. That Yanmar unit looks to be the answer so when this one is U.S I will adapt one of those. Another mate fabricated one from Inconel, It was bulletproof, no idea where he got that from. Condenser tubes in the Leander frigates were Thick walled Cupro Nickel (Monel ?) so that's what the navy used.
  13. Doing a coastal classic a few years back on a 38 ft performance cruising cat ( Mini Keels and CB's) we did 12Kn hard on the wind but pointed several degrees lower than a Cav 32 which was abeam.The Cav had a newish wardrobe and I presume was making about 6kn, our SOG worked out to be the same as the Cav. The Lagoon 40 I hired with some work colleagues in 2014 (Belize) sailed like a barge but once the anchor was down it was pure cruising luxury ! As Darkside says 90% of cruising is at rest and that is where the cat wins outright. My mate says the only person who enjoys going to win
  14. There is some irony in your comments Jason because all three OEM elbows lasted about three seasons and then failed by cracking ! they also clogged up internally and rusted from the inside out. When they cracked they leaked hot seawater on to the back of the engine causing yet more corrosion ! They were low quality sand castings so the metal was porous- not helpful. True the top part of the elbow was cooled but the lower part still got very hot. The elbows are investment cast SS my money says they will outlast the cast iron by a factor of two but I accept they will eventually fail not
  15. OK , I have trimmed the pipe right back and added an extension piece and deflector plate, I reckon it should work fine after final welding.
  16. From Minerva back to AKL in 30 kt SW on a 50 ft Ganley, was tedious but not in any way uncomfortable. My mate came back in a leopard in similar conditions the boat handled it fine but he found the motion odd it was sort of like a jerking ,lurching of the windward hull as the leeward one punched into the waves, overall he said he would have preferred a mono. But really doesn't it come Down to avoiding going to windward if you are cruising ? ha ha good luck with that . I would still happily have a cat but dont have the budget.
  17. Yes that was in the back of my mind as well which is why I might go with a mod to the as-welded set up, it will be closest to the original design.
  18. Dang ! but all good comments thanks ! and I cant lay claim to the welding it was done by a mate and he is a pro !. If you look carefully (it is not obvious) at the sectioned part the water is injected at the first elbow but then travels down an internal gallery and mixes at the last elbow. So while I guess it provides some overall cooling its probably not very effective. It makes sense however that the water is deflected downwards by the elbow geometry thus spreading/forcing it into the gas flow. I will talk it over with my welder mate but I think if I trim the existing pipe flus
  19. The Jandals are a special type for welding, here it is all welded up, Im experimenting with injecting the hot seawater down stream from the exhaust elbow. The specs of the exhaust hose say it is good up to 100 deg c so we shall see.
  20. It will be welded by Mon, the bits cost $80 at ANZOR, I will post another Pic.
  21. What he said , been there
  22. Thanks Guys and good spotting Matt ! The UK SS version seems like a good fit, I will make enquiries.
  23. Hi All, any guidance appreciated ! So the cast iron exhaust elbow on my Volvo MD7B has rusted out, no surprises there as they only last about four seasons. I have been quoted $800 for a replacement so I am looking at fabricating something in Stainless Steel. I would appreciate any input from someone who has done this, for instance what grade of Stainless would you recommend ? I have sliced it in half to show the inner geometry, my thoughts were to use to fabricate the unit using cast butt weld elbows from the Anzor catalogue with some suitable straight pipe in the middle. From there I
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