Frank

Thats a good looking dinghy, nice work

Seems like you were down the coal hole for a wee while on that very tidy installation. I started using some of that blue coloured additive when I installed the holding tank on our Carpenter, it seems to stop the horrible smells. I'll fess up and admit I don't know what its environmental credentials are like, just add a capful when flushing a no 2. For my sins I replaced two magnificent but frozen Bronze Sea Cocks with Nylon/glass units and replumbed the cockpit drains on the Hood 38 and the next job was to replace the steering cable, which was fun but at least I know how it works now. Bei

Two Fat Buns at Oneroa is another Jem, they do amazing burgers, best to phone in the order from the boat . One day someone will fit out a power cat with grill and coffee machine and make a killing serving the popular anchorages, or go bankrupt

That looks to be salvageable and looks like an old-school overbuilt design so hopefully the hull is not breached, damn shame about that beautiful cat though

As Waikiore says open all the hatches and let the current warm weather and any breeze do the trick, your "friend" was lucky its only fresh water it should be fine:-)

Hmmmmm, good point, I will check that.

I will let you know I agree re fuel additives I put them in the same class as the supplements pushed on 1ZB

I have a 2016 Transit van and can attest to the complexity of modern diesels the engine per see seems fine it is the emissions control system with its numerous sensors and associated silicone chimps that is seems endlessly finicky. The Volvo saildrive in my carpenter 29 has an engine made in japan by Shibaura for Perkins and sold as a Volvo ! it has all three companies listed on the data plate . Yes I source Shibaura Tractor parts where possible because Volvo spare parts costs are insane. From a cost/benefit perspective a new Beta 50 Hp would be better value than an overhaul, we will see whe

Sorry for the OTT headline, I have been watching too many You Tube videos the real situation is that the Perkins 4108 in our yacht has the usual 4108 curse of a leaking rear crankcase seal but is otherwise in good nick and utterly reliable. While I appreciate its not a permanent fix I was wondering about using this American Rislone Oil additive until next season when we will probably remove the motor and future proof it with an overhaul. The reviews are promising but if anyone has experience with it I'd appreciate some feedback. P.S I'm aware that there are schools of thought on oil

You would have to love almost constant hard work to maintain a varnished deck in the NZ sun, just use a good paint system and some sort of non skid.If you want the joy of natural timber then varnished cabin sides are more manageable albeit still a fair bit of work, they look great against the paint though. All of the woolacotts I sailed on were carvel built a three skin hull version is unusual particularly for 1950. You might be better to check the forums on Waitemata Woody's for intel on painting classic wooden boats.

All good in my corner of Cocklebay, but possibly some slips on the local cliff edge properties, will take a stroll when the suns out and see. Last time we had a big wet like this there were a handful that lost some of the front lawn. 50 properties red stickered and 141 yellow stickered is surreal and I'm guessing the bulk of those red stickered will result in a total wipeout of the properties value unless remedial Geo engineering can recover and stabilise the land, its a sad situation.

I suspect the contact area in that puzzle joint would easily match that of an 8:1 scarph and possibly even exceed it.

I suspect the contact area in that puzzle joint would easily match that of an 8:1 scarph and possibly even exceed it.

If you never want to replace it again fabricate it in monel.

On my MD7 i purchased cast SS plumbing fittings from anzor in east tamaki, screwed them together and had a fab shop do the welding, I recycled the Plain steel four bolt flange by welding it to the SS fittings. If you do the fabrication and jig it up the welding time per see is minimal I think mine cost $100. vs OEM part @$800

Agree with all comments above, and make sure the ply end grain is epoxy sealed

I have 3 metres in one strip, never used, has 2 minor bends which will flatten with a few taps when you bend onto the keel, I'm in Cocklebay, PM if interested chrs

Thanks for all the helpful responses, I'll have to give this some thought and try and keep any solution simple, with the wrap-around and sleeve types they seem an ingenious solution but I would be worried about chafe over an extended period. The staysail is small and i have noticed it drops like stone when the halyard is released. I will talk my local sailmaker but I think two options 1. Drop the staysail and hoist the storm jib in the vacant luff groove, (be conservative and change early) 2. Furl the Staysail and hoist the storm jib pre-threaded on a spectra "wire l

I am working through the checklist for Cat 1 and it requires both a storm jib and a heavy weather jib. Our boat has an inner forestay with a staysail on a furler, and the inspector has advised that this does not cover the storm jib requirement only the heavy weather Jib he also recommends that the storm jib should not be a furling sail, therefore I assume it would need to be a free luff sail just attached at the head, and tack . I'm interested to know what others have used in this regard and how it was rigged (particularly Matt of IT if you are online Chrs

I'm tempted to demure but it would be a long debate with no winners and this is a yachting forum, I have no gripe with golf as a game, I cant hit the ball to save my life so never played.

"By now you must realise the of boat ownership is viewed as a privilege and boaties must pay not the rate payer" Hmmmm........ they don't seem to apply this rule to the golf courses.

We have a Airhead composting Toilet in the Land Yacht, and the usual manual type in the water yacht. As for the composting head we have done four short trips so far and here is what we have found. (I am assuming you have read the advertising blurb and watched the odd video) It deals with the solid waste as advertised, there is no smell other than perhaps a inoffensive mild peat like odour. It uses a small vent fan that must run 24/7 for it to work, this draws a trivial current and wont tax your battery so long as you have a modest amount of solar. The liquid waste goes in

Thanks for the offer, I saw a few pushpit mounted ones on U Tube, Im considering that and also the deck fwd of the dodger, for both locations I would use a Hard case pack. I will PM you if I need a cradle. (Nice boat BTW )

Worth a look , and I started watching you tube videos on this, In America they seem to prefer a hard case and a dedicated SS cradle bolted to the Coach Roof . One thought was to use a "soft Cradle" or basically a webbing harness made so that it was impossible for the raft to escape any opening. There would be a draw string lashing through loops on the top , pulling them together like the top of a duffle bag . The Cradle itself would be lashed to deck tiedowns which I may need to retrofit. One cut of the purse string and it is deployed.

Good suggestion, I will check