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Everything posted by syohana

  1. They did get Crumbs off the beach, and in style! About 20 people pushed her all the way down the beach by hand!!!! I tracked down this video on reddit, well worth watching: returning_a_beached_yacht_back_into_the_wild
  2. It was fun, plus there was a fair chance she'd smash into one of our boats if she broke loose so it wasn't entirely an act of charity! We eventually tracked down the owner in Wellington, they had only just bought the boat. Some pics below. A lot of the piles round here are rotten...
  3. Ouch! Crumbs was my old boat. She has a good strong hull, did they get her off OK? Meanwhile in a relatively sheltered bit of Kerikeri river opposite us a very big heavy timber launch on a pile mooring first broke both her bow lines before the storm even got started (they were more properly described as rotten strings) and was swinging around one pile bumping it so I went over in a small boat and put a bow line on her and attached an extra stern line from the other pile. Next morning after the storm that new bow line was holding fine but the pile at the other end had broken off completely
  4. MMSI starting in 5 denotes a vessel (not a shore station) registered either in NZ or another nearby country in Oceania. I believe within that "number space" 512 is allocated to NZ so any number starting with 512 would be nz registered and they are allocated starting from 1 so this would be the 2022nd vessel to register an MMSI in NZ. Seems like a plausible real MMSI. Or could be a made up or spoofed MMSI, but if someone just picked a random number then the chances are that it wouldn't start with 512 unless they really knew their stuff. If they knew their stuff well enough to use the
  5. One more thought - if you can't find a local, call Far North Radio on channel 60, they will know and probably be happy to give up to date info on the bar, or they will know who to ask.
  6. ... looking at the swell direction, the karikari peninsula should actually shield Houhora from most of it, only looks like 1m swell at most in the bay there. Still, check with a local, I've never been there...
  7. Oh, and happy new year to you too! see you soon!
  8. Monday looks like a day to enjoy Houhora. I'd wait until Tuesday, you should be able to make good progress that day. Wednesday looks good too though it's a bit far out to say for sure. windy.com gives great visualisations of what's happening and you can hop between all the different forecast models to see if they agree. The forecast is the big picture and doesn't do a good job of predicting sea breezes. Should be plenty of those with the sunshine forecast. You'll find the wind is different if you hug the coast, sea breezes will take over there if the prevailing wind dies, either replacing
  9. Check for barnacles unbalancing the prop first. Second make sure the shaft is exactly central in the shaft log (stern tube) first before doing the feeler gauge bit. Perhaps actually put wedges around the shaft to hold it dead centre. That might involve removing the water seal from around the shaft (unless it's a traditional stuffing box) so might have to be done out of water depending on the setup. Feeler gauges work. If you use an R&D coupling it has a special bolt head for using the feeler gauges on which makes it easier and more accurate. THe rubber coupling also helps absorb
  10. Like this: https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/2/28/solar-panel-mounting
  11. Consider a panel "hinged" to your top guardrail wire and outside it, either across the stern or beside the cockpit where dodgers would go. Have it vertical when sailing so it takes zero space, adjust the angle towards horizontal when moored (depending on height of the sun so don't raise it so much in winter). That will keep the coachroof free to walk on and the space taken by the panel is entirely outside the boat.
  12. Juice panels are either nominally 12v or 24v depending on the size. If the maximum "open circuit" output of your panels is around 36-40v then they are actually nominally 24v panels - the same voltage as the larger Juice panels. If you need smaller panels then two 12v panels can put in series to make the output nominally 24v (actually maximum around 36-40v open circuit). It is true that a higher voltage set up will give better low light performance because the panels will only charge when their output voltage is higher than the battery voltage. Even an MPPT controller will only charge
  13. Another thought... As a temporary solution to get you sailing this summer you could dump the heat exchanger, header tank and the leaky impeller pump and just cool the engine with raw sea water just going through the engine cooling circuit and into the exhaust. Throw in an anode and it should last at least a year or two until the rust gets it. Maybe it was originally raw water cooled anyway? Perhaps it was a lake boat on fresh water though? It's a good heavy thick block, won't rust through in a hurry and should cope with sea water for a while. You could simplify and get all that crap
  14. Another thought for the purpose of that hose. If it wasn't clipped up in the top corner of the coachroof then I'd say it was an emergency bilge pump. Close the seacock and open the valve on the end of the pipe, then the engine will pump water out of anywhere you put the end of that hose. I still think anti siphon based on where it goes though.
  15. I can see why you are not keen to keep this engine
  16. Looks like the hose going up from the tee might be an improvised anti-siphon device. It would have been added because the water pump is leaking. As long as the valve at the top is closed, the water pump will work OK but it will leak. If you open the valve at the top then it will let air into the top of the loop and that might stop water siphoning in and leaking out of the water pump, so it might stop it sinking the boat. It should never be opened when the engine is running. Just a guess. If the tee is below the waterline then either it isn't that, or it is that but it doesn't work.
  17. So the water filter/strainer is missing altogether. That's not better!
  18. [quote] 2 hours ago, waikiore said: I noticed that too and wondered what it was. Looked like a cockpit drain or something. Surely thats going to suck air into the system causing overheating. [/quote] Agreed. And the impeller appears to be on the wrong side of the water filter. The filter is supposed to protect the impeller but the impeller is connected directly to the seacock and what looks like a filter is on the outlet of the impeller.
  19. Hey Axel, nothing wrong with boatpaint.co.nz, they sell genuine Hempel paint which is a good brand. They don't have fancy premises or advertising so you pay less. If you buy smaller amounts they buy big cans of genuine Hempel paint and decant them into unbranded small cans so you pay something closer to wholesale prices but you don't get a pretty logo or instructions on the can. Google has the instructions
  20. Yes, a pod drive and seal everything up is the best solution and we can supply those too but.... A pod is two to four times more expensive for a bit less power. If you didn't already have a prop and shaft then a pod is certainly best but you can save a fortune by using what you've got. Stuffing box is fine as long as you remember to stuff it. Our oldest electric boat has one (35 years on electric power and still going strong). She goes out on hire every day, nothing wrong with a good old fashioned shaft drive but a pod is simpler, slightly more efficient and even quieter if it's a direct drive
  21. We have some nice 5kw (replaces a 10hp diesel) electric motors going cheap ($3000) which would drop in to replace your existing diesel. Definitely the best option if you keep it in a marina where you can plug it in. On a mooring it depends how often you use it but solar panels can easily provide enough power unless you use it on consecutive cloudy days. An outboard will get dunked under water and/or the prop will come out of the water in big waves on a lee shore, just when you really need it to perform. Inboard of any kind is much, much better.
  22. Juice panels are good quality and the price reflects that. Most so-called "flexible" panels are rubbish. Be aware that NO flexi panel is actually flexible. They need to be fixed to a hard, flat surface which can have a slight curve to it and must have continuous support underneath. The solar cells within the panel are not flexible, they are very brittle and any uneven pressure or vibration can crack them. for example, if you stick them down with sealant and there's a bubble in the sealant then when someone steps on the bubble, the solar cell will crack. As 2flit said, do not install PET f
  23. We do need to go out of the entrance first so diamond A is useful. I was planning to depart with the ebb but having the diamond data means I can be a bit more precise about that. Good advice for brett too, thanks. Long time since I've been up this way. This boat has outboards and likes to pitch, I'll go wide to avoid dunking them under a wave!
  24. Wow, 3 knots is definitely worth knowing about. Great info everyone and that's a huge help in passing our passage. Looks like the wind will change by Wednesday and we can get on the way. It's a real nuisance that they crop the data take for the diamonds off the digital charts, special thanks to those who posted it for both Brett and bream, just what I needed! Next time I'll remember to bring my paper charts!
  25. Does anyone know how long before/ after high tide the stream turns north/south at cape brett, and spring/neap speed of the current? And bream head too? I can't seem to find this info anywhere online and I don't have an almanac handy on the boat I'm on, didn't think to bring it with me from mine. Maybe the info isn't available because there isn't much current to worry about, but I'd like to check as I have to take a slow boat around the cape and would rather be there at the optimum time. Normally I'd look for a diamond on the chart but only have digital charts on this boat, no paper (
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