2flit

We would wait at least until next September, could wait longer...

Can't truck an 8 meter wide boat, its a shame! I'll give Shawn a call

Not really, we are very low freeboard, the amas are more like painting a 10 meter canoe than a 10 meter monohull. They also taper to virtually nothing at the transom I would estimate 1/3 the surface area? So 1/3 +1/3 + 1 = 1-2/3 a normal 40' mono with very low freeboard. Catamaran tower above us when they pull alongside!

Hibiscus can't get our boat hauled because our beam is 8.02 meters

We are repainting for ourselves, plan to have the trimaran for over another ten years. I'm already into the spot repair zone of topside paint life. It's time to do the entire job over. The paint is 20 years old and getting thin and ready to morph into a HUGE job if we don't get after it in the next couple years.

Is the time frame issue as related to having a 'shed' an issue with rainfall and/or morning condensation (we have only spent time in French Polynesia and Tonga where this is not such a big issue) We are able to leave the boat there and have them take allot of time but the hard stand rates I see are very high in Vuda... otherwise we would not mind if it took a long time (say even three months to complete). We are 100% sure we don't want to do any prep work other than stripping/unbolting ALL of the deck gear.

Hey Fish, ... That's just it... these prices are jaw dropping out of the ball park too expensive for us and we can't spend this kind of money on the repaint. I think that I am strictly asking about Fiji (or another labor cost effective country). New Zealand has basically ruled itself out for this particular job and moving an 8+ meter wide trimaran around the countryside just is not in the cards.🙃

Thanks BP, We got a second quote from a local contractor but it's still the better part of a years income at $47,000. I'm truly not feeling encouraged... considering we are stripping and replacing all the hardware. I've contacted Vuda marine but have not yet heard back from them... it seems several people paint in that facility? There is a fellow with the first name "Willy" who set-up uin Fiji about 22 years ago and is very skilled... I don't have any contact info...?

We have a 12.2 meter Trimaran we need to have a complete repaint done on. We got quoted an astronomical $85,000 locally in New Zealand. So... We are now looking at doing the work in Fiji. We would remove and replace all the deck hardware and deck 'structures' but leave the prep work and paint to a contractor. Anyone have any experience doing this in Fiji? Thanks, John

We have a mixture of Teflon dust and epoxy as a final coat on our dagger board, worked the charm on two trimaran dagger boards owned so far.

Yep... I had the same question about where the 8.5 Multi page went... wrote the Administrator and have not heard anything back?

I have read that as many as 44 plans sets were sold for the F36/39 Farriers, But I only know details of a very few.. If you can fill in the blanks here or are sailing one, I'd like to see a list started. See attached .xlxs WExcel file for the complete list. Boat Name AKA Current Owner(s) Ravenswing Greg Carter (Mex) UnconditionalLove ?? Nehenehe Max-Q John Mottl (NZ) KISS

The Captains of that boat appear to have been previously well seasoned: http://www.sv-footprint.com/ https://sv-footprint.blogspot.com/ Lots of cruising since 2008, did loose one previous Cat that Jack-Line insurance made a 100% cover on when winds reversed on them at anchor and waves developed when anchored in 2.5 meter depth in Itally, boat washed ashore and was deemed a total loss. They have done more long distance sailing than we have and their experience covers a wide range of territory. They had the experience to have know to avoide this so the back story to why th

It weights allot for something like this. The prod itself is an aluminum tube and (it could have been built in Carbon )and the stainless strut is extremely thick walled. I could estimate the weight of the prod at 12-15 kg and the strut at an additional 5-6 kg. The design is straight from the plans built exactly to Ian Farriers drawings for the prod and is original to the boats year 2001 build.

... and ours 'folded' at the marina ...

Other prods and prod hardware that my friend builds then anodizes...

Our Prod is about 2 meters long and has a stainless bobstay so that it is supported without any halyards attached. I'm almost 90kg and can climb out to the very end and it remains supported. I'll post pictures of another prod too...

Rangiroa

If you can't get someone to loan/rent you out the tool... I used the manufacturers ratcheting crimpers for about a year until the tool broke. I then learned.... You can use most KLEIN brand 'soft' Single crimper jaws at their respective (Yellow, Blue, Red) settings. A soft jaw is one with oval/rounded outer edges, I've done this for 20 years and 1,000's of connections without any issues for 'Name Branded' 22-10 AWG size connectors from "Quick Cable", not sure about your metric sizing and metric tools and connectors but I would at least give it a try on a few test connectors. Crimp them,

We can't find anyone with a Snomaster 40 liter freezer see: https://www.snomasterusa.com/product/classic-series-bdc-40-stainless-steel-acdc-fridgefreezer/#tab-description target=_top Any suggestions for a very efficient model this size (less than 40 liters) for a portable 12V freezer? We heard great things about the Snomaster. We intent to install it semi-permanently aboard our Trimaran and are solar based (No shore-power) so the unit needs to be very efficient. We don't want a drop-in Danfos unit because of the cost to build and fair in the box. Picture of the area it goes in a

Sooo... At the top of the tank there is a tempering valve (has a black knob on the left hand side). Don't set one of these up without one because getting scalded is a real possibility. On the lower left is a Tn'P valve (Temp & pressure release) plumbed to the outside world via the cockpit drains. My old system used to routinely blow and reset that valve so I recommend an "Industrial" rated Tn'P valve which cost 3X as much but will reseal properly 100% of the time. But take all this with a grain of salt because I don't like problems and breakages aboard and do the very best possible 'd

We have one but don't run the engine enough to have hot water often enough. My only takeaway advice is to pay attention to the R-Value, or it's inverse U-Value of the insulation on the tank. This makes a huge difference. I think it's worth paying more for a well insulated tank. I put a picture in of our current install I also had one of these on a converted OSTAR boat and it worked great. That one had extra spray foam insulation heaped over and around it, a bit of a mess but worked very well.

After a raucous sail up the west coast with over 6 meter seas and 45 knots of wind, boat speeds above 16 kn hitting 20kn, tired after logging our first ever 300+ mile day....We decided to haul-out in Whangarei at Oceania Marine. They had the very best rate for the haul-out and also if we paid them to do all the anti-fouling... so they were almost the most competitive priced of all the yards that had a travel lift for our beam. (Their Travel lift is 10+ meters wide so easily accommodated our 8.06 meter beam.) In the last four year of world cruising with two major refits and three bottom jo

In what Australian anchorages is the Rocna forbidden?