funlovincriminal

https://www.trademe.co.nz/3314148519 Can't guarantee it's the correct one but looks awful similar?

Really aiming for simplicity and least modifications to a class boat possible. Had a deck mounted one on the 930 and had to remove anchor locker lid to use it whilst cruising but the 1020 split lid makes it a lot more practical. Prod will be removable with a single thumb turn screw at the back then just slips backwards out of the stem ring. While viat out of the water I'm adding a Bob stay tube to the knuckle but a heavy enough section prod can survive without one. (We had 19.7kts in 35kts on the 930 and ran a zero pretty tight with no breakages). However the 1020 is a fair bit heavier!

Keen!

It's for a deck mounted prod, so I could build it up where it slips through the ring. Most likely unstayed so 3.5mm may be a bit on the thin side? Can't recall the thickness of the one on my 930 but it was pretty beefy. What kind of length is it?

Yeah got my last one from there. Just checking to see if a crew.orger had something kicking about

Why would I want a prod on a 1020? Gennakers are just so hard to deal with on a family cruiser, there's all that pole carrying and clipping/unclipping, uphauls, downhauls, tweakers, wine glasses, death rolls and Chinese gybes.... oh wait... that's Spinnakers

As description Need thick wall carbon mast/prod section parallel. 2-3 metres would be good! Cheers 022 044 9171

After 3 terms of Labor with their "No overnighting on boats" policy, the bottom really fell out of the yacht market

Yes I did clean the run up and no I don't know why last pic upside down

Today Installed sail drive boot, epoxy primed and applied first coat of Antifoul. 2nd coated internal window trims, installed windows just in time to weatherproof boat for the forecasted rain! Windows a hard job solo in a breeze

Friday afternoon/Saturday ... Painted new charcoal metallic boot top above my laboriously reclaimed white gelcoat factory stripe. Re drilled bolts for rudder top gudgeon, removed, freed up and reinstalled grease gland packers for bearings. Fitted rudder bearing tube and rudder. No play now! Installed new prop and prop speeded sail drive and prop. Wife and kids masked and sanded teak interior window trims. I prepped external window surrounds and installed vhb tape, and marked and masked window outlines.

I wish Can you imagine the anguish that would cause in the Owners association! I'm probably already in trouble for changing the back stay to Dyneema...

Was transported a shortish distance from yacht club to my house up a twisty road utilizing a Nissan Navara with a Hydraulic transmission lifter lashed on the tray, Borrowed digger trailer with an engine lifting crane bolted to the back end, motorcycle tie downs, carpet off cuts, a not insignificant amount of overhang, a firm belief in luck and no plausible Level 4 get out of jail story.... Middle coat is Resene 81a Etch Primer. Full System was: Linbide/orbital/ Hand Sand old coatings off. Detergent/waterblast extrusion. Allow to dry. Tramline Sand with 180g paper

Also built a covid testing centre at home and painted a mast in it. 35 years old and she still scrubs up ok

Bought another toy that I'm not allowed to use. Pushing the boundaries of 'Click and Collect'

Awesome, thanks guys. I couldn't see the reasoning in marring a near perfect surface to try and make it more slippery. Past 4 boats all I've had to do is tilt the outboard and corrosion-be-gone!

Ex owner of boat purchased a new Gori to replace the one lost between me viewing the boat and paying for it.

My Sail drive is coated in prospeed that is still in good nick. Fitting a new Gori folder in the next couple of weeks and have been told by more than one passer by that I should run it without anything on it for a season or so before sanding/applying any protective coating to it. I'm an inboard newbie so green as they come in this field... is there science behind this approach or should I take the sail drive back to bare metal and apply the Propspeed system to the whole lot? Seems sacrilege to sand the new prop While I'm on it, exactly how far out from the sail drive should y

Does Nikki know you caught a portion of her butt in that pic? I know I'd be lynched if I did that

Yes has thermocouple flame outs on all elements. The main oven element flutters for approx 30 secs or so once knob and pilot light switched off, then there's a distinct 'click and she's out. I was wondering if normal sign writing vinyl would handle the heat. The panel is thin stainless that was originally spot welded on the edge of the holes for control knobs but half the welds had let go and it was bent. I removed and cleaned it all up and will just rivet it back on when I've sussed the decoration of it.

The 1020 came with a functioning Mariner Prince 2 burner with grill but the boss requires an oven. So managed to get my hands on a mostly functioning Princess oven from trademe a few months back. Took some time over the weekend to fully strip the oven down and refurb/clean/reassemble with parts from the old unit. The thing cranks now and all elements fire up first click Such a well built unit, compared to the crap available these days. The only thing that I need to do is somehow get the front panel sticker recreated so we have the gradients etc.

This looks suspiciously like my parents old ferro cement yacht 'Gryphon'. Would you say she was about 48 ft? Whereabouts did you snap her?

I'll have a look at the blanking plug when I go down to empty the dehumidifier/bucket out the forepeak from some idiot cutting anchor locker out just before lockdown

Yes, have had a hunt around on the web. I've seen those guys and a few other offshore places that can supply, was just hoping to be able to support local...