Island Time

Used to have one of those when I was a kid. They were riveted together, and after many years of being trashed, it leaked pretty badly thru the rivets. To use one as a tender, you'd want to have some pretty good gunnel fenders, and have to have a careful think about how to get aboard without trashing the mother ship. The alloy can leave nasty marks, dents and scrapes. But, on the other hand, they are light and tough

MCP, I agree these are much more stable than other forms of lithium batts, but things can still go wrong, sometimes badly. Here is an example (but not a boat) http://www.batteryvehiclesociety.org.uk/bvsorguk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1825

Might be a good time to update it. $2600 for a B&G wireless (mast unit, rest is wired) Triton 2 depth/speed/wind pack. Comes with masthead unit, receiver, Triton 2 display, N2k starter kit, DST (depth speed temp) thru hull.

Bloody great Idea I reckon! Hope it works, it would be awesome to see.

now that brings back some memories! Still cool, I cant understand why there are not lots of them around - comparatively cheap and thrilling to sail

Well, I did 30,000 odd NM with one Kiwiprop. Never changed anything. Wrapped rope around it 3 x, once sufficient to stop the engine. Hit several bits of floating timber etc with the boat. No problem. The blades are much tougher than many think, but if you do damage one, easy to change, and cheap. Metal props can be damaged as well, nothing is bulletproof.

Lets see, plastic - no electrolytic corrosion (saves anodes as well, less immersed metal), light, cheap, easy to replace blades....

Sorry Aleana, I disagree. I've seen pretty much all the brands out there have issues. The volvo base engines are fine. Some models have various issues, and that's mostly to do with the marinisation. They all can be sorted out and give good service. Same with Yanmar. And Beta, Nanni, etc. Some of those brands use the same base engines. So, what's important is the marinisation, the installation, and the servicing. Then clean plentiful air, clean oil of the correct spec, and a dry, clean engine room will go a long way to giving any of these engines a good service life. I have customer

To enter most countries you need a Zarpe. This is a certificate of clearance from your port of exit. Without one, you may not be allowed to enter another country.

If you are going to build your own banks, may I suggest that this is MUCH more difficult for you to get right than many believe. It can be done, but PLEASE tread carefully! It can also fail, sometimes spectacularly, and cost you your investment, your boat, or more. May I respectfully suggest that you START your reading here https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/ and do a lot of research before you commit.

Yep. Last time I’ve lifted the boat without me being there. There are sling markers on the gunnel, but the lift operator “didn’t see them” . Imo did not look, and did not last as a lift driver....

I had the same issue, but it broke a mount, and tore the seal. Also distorted the SD leg. Had to change the whole unit....

Iirc, the old spec for AT fluid, dextron 111, was changed to real oil, SAE 15w40. Check with a Volvo dealer for the service notice. They should tell you for free, or even provide a copy....

https://www.amazon.com/acrylic-dome/s?k=acrylic+dome

Yup, as SMU says. Dont forget the o rings in the handles, they are often a source of leaks, and cheap and easy to replace

http://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php?/forum/1-classifieds/

Why would you do that? The fairing cover on the hull side is easy to do. A Saildrive is engineered to be able to move significantly via the engine mount flex, some in use, more in an impact. This movement is extended at the base of the saildrive where it protrudes through the hull. Filling the void will load the SD in a manner for which it was not designed. It will also make removal of the drive for any service work much more difficult.

If it does not do it down a cylinder, what happens if you remove the air cleaner?

Looks and sounds like a sticking valve - sometimes a valve not completely sealing and blowing out compression via the intake system. When the tech got it to drop to 2 cylinders it was the same regardless of the cylinder stopped? Be interesting to see what volvo say...

looks great! Well done

Sorry, this is being done on behalf of the GHYC, in an attempt to attract new members. I have not considered setup for streaming at this point.

At the Gulf Harbor Yacht Club, we are doing a series of education evenings. The first was last Wednesday, "Basic Marine Diesel maintenance" . It went pretty well, with about 50-60 attendees. The next one is on Tues 4th August (next week). Topic is "Basic Marine Electrics and Corrosion", again presented by me. Free event, all welcome, at the GHYC, 7:00 - 8:30pm. Following that, the final one will be on Electronics. Again, free, all welcome.

Nope, main menu button, selct navigation, then skip....

Again, Wheels and anyone else, watch the doco, and read what you can. Large industry has MPI in their pockets, and many MP's are not neutral. The QMS simply is not working, stats can be made to say anything. It's led to a situation where apparently more than 40% of the current take may be being dumped. Its illegal, but its happening, as it make economic sense. Again I use the example I gave before. One species has currently a "moratorium" on fishing it , the large fishing companies would have you believe that its because they are environmentally conscientious, but the fact is that

The fact is that it was ill conceived to allow anyone to "own" the quota. Effectively owning the fish. There will be $ involved, but this is the only way to get control back. And it does not matter who the owners are or how hard this may be. Still has to happen. Plus it must be written into NZ law that no one, individual, company, or organisation of any kind, can ever own a quota or right in perpetuity again. Ownership of the fishery must remain with the NZ public. MPI and the government need to man up and get on with this.