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Island Time

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Everything posted by Island Time

  1. I get a reduction on my policy, both in NZ waters and offshore, with RYA Yachtmaster tickets. Doing one is not a simple undertaking though, and it's not recognized commercially in NZ. Most boats leave NZ without any formal qualifications. However, more and more jurisdictions are starting to require certification...
  2. Looks like he is here - the purple one is a the only leisure vessel in the area...
  3. If he is actually in on the high seas, then I've no issue with what hes doing. Others, including nations, may disagree. Territorial waters are a bit of a grey area. For a long time most nations accepted that territorial limits were 3NM, a long cannon shot. Then some nations "decided" that it should be 12NM incl the USA. NZ has a 200nm "EEZ", but you can transit that area. Its pretty hard for a single yacht to defy a nation - with a navy and or air force, if they are determined. They can stop you. You are vulnerable. You can't fight a military vessel. There are multiple areas in the
  4. This looks pretty good as well as the pt11. Plans are 80 euros.... http://www.metzboats.de/htm/designs/dinghies/mebo12/mb12.htm
  5. Agreed, and to sail in another countries waters without their permission is to invite arrest and imprisonment. Possibly confiscation of your vessel. His risk, he must accept the consequences. Unfortunately his actions can have consequences for others following his path at a future date, even post covid.
  6. Yep, Craig is one of Navico's tech staff. There are two B&G Tech specialist dealers in Auckland (Ok, well, NZ!) me and Dave Minors. Ist thing I'd do is look in the Network Diags screen on the Zeus. Look for network errors etc, and network load stats. Issue is likely poor installation (not complying with N2K rules) bus power, a Terminator, or a faulty T connector. Could also be a chafed cable.... Who installed it? If it was professionally installed, then there should be a 2 yr warranty. I have a collection of spare T's and terminators, T's are about $60 each - but they are water
  7. Indeed Kevin, I reckon that can’t be easy! My tender is a 2.7m Rib, weight is 37 kg iirc. The admiral and I can lift it aboard (stores inverted on foredeck), but if solo I have to use a halyard and winch. It’s not hard, but takes a few mins to set up. As we get older, lifting it is becoming more difficult though. Same with the big outboard (15hp), that’s a similar weight, and about all I can manage. Must make another harness for it... the little outboard (2.5 4 stroke) is no problem at 12kg. Weight is a prime factor for me in selecting a dinghy and motor. Oh doc, there is a carbon rigid
  8. There really are some great pics and story in that link Priscilla 11! Just spent a while going thru it...
  9. Used to have one of those when I was a kid. They were riveted together, and after many years of being trashed, it leaked pretty badly thru the rivets. To use one as a tender, you'd want to have some pretty good gunnel fenders, and have to have a careful think about how to get aboard without trashing the mother ship. The alloy can leave nasty marks, dents and scrapes. But, on the other hand, they are light and tough
  10. MCP, I agree these are much more stable than other forms of lithium batts, but things can still go wrong, sometimes badly. Here is an example (but not a boat) http://www.batteryvehiclesociety.org.uk/bvsorguk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1825
  11. Might be a good time to update it. $2600 for a B&G wireless (mast unit, rest is wired) Triton 2 depth/speed/wind pack. Comes with masthead unit, receiver, Triton 2 display, N2k starter kit, DST (depth speed temp) thru hull.
  12. Bloody great Idea I reckon! Hope it works, it would be awesome to see.
  13. now that brings back some memories! Still cool, I cant understand why there are not lots of them around - comparatively cheap and thrilling to sail
  14. Well, I did 30,000 odd NM with one Kiwiprop. Never changed anything. Wrapped rope around it 3 x, once sufficient to stop the engine. Hit several bits of floating timber etc with the boat. No problem. The blades are much tougher than many think, but if you do damage one, easy to change, and cheap. Metal props can be damaged as well, nothing is bulletproof.
  15. Lets see, plastic - no electrolytic corrosion (saves anodes as well, less immersed metal), light, cheap, easy to replace blades....
  16. Sorry Aleana, I disagree. I've seen pretty much all the brands out there have issues. The volvo base engines are fine. Some models have various issues, and that's mostly to do with the marinisation. They all can be sorted out and give good service. Same with Yanmar. And Beta, Nanni, etc. Some of those brands use the same base engines. So, what's important is the marinisation, the installation, and the servicing. Then clean plentiful air, clean oil of the correct spec, and a dry, clean engine room will go a long way to giving any of these engines a good service life. I have customer
  17. To enter most countries you need a Zarpe. This is a certificate of clearance from your port of exit. Without one, you may not be allowed to enter another country.
  18. If you are going to build your own banks, may I suggest that this is MUCH more difficult for you to get right than many believe. It can be done, but PLEASE tread carefully! It can also fail, sometimes spectacularly, and cost you your investment, your boat, or more. May I respectfully suggest that you START your reading here https://marinehowto.com/lifepo4-batteries-on-boats/ and do a lot of research before you commit.
  19. Yep. Last time I’ve lifted the boat without me being there. There are sling markers on the gunnel, but the lift operator “didn’t see them” . Imo did not look, and did not last as a lift driver....
  20. I had the same issue, but it broke a mount, and tore the seal. Also distorted the SD leg. Had to change the whole unit....
  21. Iirc, the old spec for AT fluid, dextron 111, was changed to real oil, SAE 15w40. Check with a Volvo dealer for the service notice. They should tell you for free, or even provide a copy....
  22. Island Time

    Dome

    https://www.amazon.com/acrylic-dome/s?k=acrylic+dome
  23. Yup, as SMU says. Dont forget the o rings in the handles, they are often a source of leaks, and cheap and easy to replace
  24. http://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php?/forum/1-classifieds/
  25. Why would you do that? The fairing cover on the hull side is easy to do. A Saildrive is engineered to be able to move significantly via the engine mount flex, some in use, more in an impact. This movement is extended at the base of the saildrive where it protrudes through the hull. Filling the void will load the SD in a manner for which it was not designed. It will also make removal of the drive for any service work much more difficult.
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