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Opinions on folding/feathering propeller


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Fish the other factor is blade area and shape- there are just too many variables to make a definitive decision from a magazine test, prop sizing is part calculation, part guessing and part experience which is why prop manufacturers and suppliers have extensive databases of end use. The best thing is to talk to lots of people, there is a font of knowledge out there  especially other owners of the same boat but even then its not 100% perfect. Different engines have different power curves, there are many gearbox ratios to choose from and is it shaft or saildrive? Then its whether the boat is loaded like a cruiser or is it stripped out and 800kg lighter, does the owner thrash it and even then there are misunderstandings about what that means!

 

I am not a big fan of the kiwi after I saw one on Tucana that had a serious infestation of electric sea mice, they changed it to a bronze folder.

To be fair Tucana ran that prop for a number of years and it was fine. But the trust had a new policy to run the boats without anodes and the shaft anode was removed, So something else got et instead, the body or boss of the propeller. I think that happened in a season or 1 1/2 seasons, my son was running the boat and I can remember pestering him to get it hauled.

 Anyone like to see it? I have it in the shed at home.

 Kiwiprops are inexpensive feathering propellers . They run smooth and you can adjust the pitch. Fine tuning the pitch to suit the powerplant and boat is invaluable I think. You just have to be on top of the maintenance as referred to earlier, and be careful with that reverse pitch thing they can do . 

 I actually removed a 2 bladed feathering seahawk ( which is now autostream?)and replaced it with a kiwiprop because it never balanced properly. The seahawk was powerful and did everything it should . The kiwi prop did not perform any less than the seahawk.  Ie no change in power/ performance , but smoother. 

 I noticed that sometime after I owned my seahawk they developed a stainless 3 bladed prop  and I suspect that is able to be balanced properly. dammit.

 Now I have a maxprop  and that thing is a really nice unit provided again , it is maintained by  greasing it every haul. I suspect it is 20 years old, its nice.

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There is some real devil in the detail with propellers. Referring to the yachting monthly test that Farrari referred to, I see there are two versions on the internet: https://www.yachtingmonthly.com

Kiwiprops reverse pitch is not adjustable. There is too much reverse pitch, and therefore torque required to rotate, for some small engines to overcome at idle...

Lots of great info, I learned again. Actually I have to check the clearance between the shaft end and the rudder. In memory I have plenty of space, but looking this picture (one of the 15 Chargers) no

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To be fair Tucana ran that prop for a number of years and it was fine. But the trust had a new policy to run the boats without anodes and the shaft anode was removed, So something else got et instead, the body or boss of the propeller. I think that happened in a season or 1 1/2 seasons, my son was running the boat and I can remember pestering him to get it hauled.

 

What sort of hill billy banjo playing 6 fingered er, people would have a policy to run boats without anodes? I'd be impressed if Auckland Council could even come up with such a nonsensical policy. Yes there is over protected, which can cause issues on wooden boats, and there is under protected, as in none, which will destroy key mechanical equipment rather quickly, case in point.

 

I am not a big fan of the kiwi after I saw one on Tucana that had a serious infestation of electric sea mice, they changed it to a bronze folder.

I'm sorry native, but that is a tad irresponsible saying a certain prop has an electrolysis issue, when you neglect to mention the backward facing 'no anodes' policy. Doesn't help your credibility much. Its like completely ignoring all the maintenance instructions, or doing the opposite to what is required, and then bitching that it broke...

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Never had an electrolysis problem with kiwi prop,zinc on shaft,ali hub properly etched primed with ali antifoul,had to do 3 times in 12 months but no sign of corrosion,never bothered antifouling blades as found anti foul never really stuck,coated 3 times  year in lonlolin and prop speed not a fan as to many factors enter the equation as applicator stated not a guarantee it will depending on who has what moored near you.

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I'm sorry native, but that is a tad irresponsible saying a certain prop has an electrolysis issue, when you neglect to mention the backward facing 'no anodes' policy. Doesn't help your credibility much. Its like completely ignoring all the maintenance instructions, or doing the opposite to what is required, and then bitching that it broke...

 

What credibility? I hope I did not infer that all kiwiprops have an issue, just that seeing one so badly corroded did not endear me to the design. I also did not realise that the trust had a no anode policy,  I wonder how long it took, one would think that SS on an SS shaft would last a while, JB any idea how the bronze one is holding up riding bareback?

 

I have no problem with kiwiprops, as I said some people love them but they are high(er) maintenance and not ideal for racing. In reference to the OP question, I dont think that a 2gm has enough grunt to drive one as well as it would a briski folder.

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Hm... one more question, just to be sure, if I go for two blade propeller from three blade, should I consider to make any extra shaft support, or different type of bearing? I can imagine with less blades, less balanced run, increased wear on bearings. I'm confident I'll  go for two blade folding if I have enough space.

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