mattm

No. No he’s not. At 14 knots of wind and 9.1 of boat speed on a 52’ boat? The jib sheet runs aft from the low friction ring. The line he holds runs to the foredeck hatch, likely to the kite?

As far as inverters go, a piece of toast will take a certain amount of energy to toast. It won’t matter if you have a 500w toaster or a 1000w, it’ll just change the amount of time required, with perhaps some difference to depth of toasted-ness. Same as a jug element for boiling water. The only way to save power would be to use white bread, not Vogel’s. I’d stick with gas for toasting.

What are you saying the issue is with the charge current to two seperate banks being unequal?

CD, the DBC type is one physical switch, that effectively has 3 switches inside it, so it’s for both house, start and parallel functions. https://www.bepmarine.com/en/p/772-dbc-ez

The old 1/2/both ones aren’t that good in my opinion(and most others). With normal wiring configuration your picking which battery does all jobs, there’s no separation of loads (there are other ways to wire them if you have more than one 1/2/b switch, but I think it’s typically unnecessary complication). The modern (3ish years old or less) Dual Battery Control (DBC) switches are good, operate similar to a 3 switch system but take less space. You’ll know the difference, the 1/2/b has 3 main studs on the back (some had 2 extra small ones for alternator field control), the DBC has 4. The Mar

I swear we had this conversation some 5+ years ago wheels, but a VSR does not disconnect one battery from anything. It just joins two banks together, exactly like an emergency parallel switch does.

At a place I worked, a guy once came in and brought a basic stereo for his boat, about $120 worth. After paying for it, asked if one of the electricians would be able to come down and fit it before he went out (that afternoon). We changed work plan, did it straight away, spent a total of 2 hours installing the stereo, fixing numerous other electrical issues, using numerous parts, and teaching him to use his electronics. At the end, he didn’t want to pay for the time or extra bits, thought all the extra would be covered by buying the stereo, profit margin of maybe $15. I guess there a

Ahh…. Right….. So if you went to a business that had 20 staff, which might all get involved in a major project, but your job will require 2, would you like a rate for ‘his business’ services’ same as the job needing all 20 staff, or per person on your job? If you think that meant he was ripping you off, I feel bad for him.

I’d try a metal tube, big enough to slide a loop of something down the inside to stick out the end and form a big loop, long cable ties might be good, maybe heavy fishing nylon. Drop the tube down the dipstick hole, and try lasso the end of the stick. Cables ties could be done in a way that the loop tie could be tightened once the stick lasso’d, and the pipe pulled off to allow more room to pull the stick out the hole. Maybe a bit of 10mm hose with a bend in it to stir the tank round to find and move the stick. Could take a while, depends on the size and shape of the tank, but would have to b

Be worth measuring the hole you need to fill, and the overall size you need to hide existing screw holes etc. Also, if you have room to go a few mm bigger if needed. Not all 6.5’s are the same, and the way JL measures them is different to other brands - their 6.5” is typically smaller diameter overall.

If I hadn’t heard JL, I’d probably be saying the same. If you haven’t heard JL, you may not miss the difference. The Signature stuff is certainly the best stuff Fusion has ever made. But it’s not the same. Fusion has been brought by Garmin, so you’d possibly find better pricing from a marine electrician who is a Garmin dealer, than B or MD. It’s very seldom that either of their pricing is particularly good, except maybe on end of line / discontinued stuff at MD, otherwise, on electronics, a lot of the time their ‘why pay’ price is way above RRP, and ‘their price’ is often full RRP or

Hard to go past JL audio’s marine speakers for sound quality. I’ve done several installs of JL stuff now, all you can do at the end of the install is choose a good song, set a decent volume, and stand in the cockpit smiling like a moron at how good it sounds. From memory of the training I did with a JL tech from the US, rather than ‘marinising’ a car speaker (which are designed to sound good in enclosed spaces like in a car) they have started from the beginning and designed speakers that are made to be outside in open air, and without a specific sized box behind them. They sound amaz

My (very modified) 830 has runners and split top mast on the same line into the cockpit - so they’re pulled on together. The clutch is about where the driver sits, so I can release, or someone sitting forward of the traveller can. They’re winched on when needed using the windward primary - I don’t have self trackers, and use primary winches on the coamings for jib trim. I can manage them while driving short handed. Let off and pull on to hand tight, then a bit of a winch if required once things are under control. The way mines setup, I don’t have to worry about the mast falling down without

Take the 3 screws out of the end cap and pull the cap off. Then take the 2 long machine screws out - they go right through. That will allow the end caps to come off. You should be away then. I’d not take the pole shoes out (the bolts around the sides), just mask off the ends well enough to survive sandblasting the rust off. Make sure you back up the bottom nut when tightening or loosening the cable lug nuts.

Thanks for the reply’s, I’ll keep them in mind. The drainage system looks pretty good, but from what I’ve been told, not perfect. I guess it’ll only be an issue on coastal races, as there’s no swell in Waikawa, and seldom waves that would seem big enough to be an issue. Rats, I’m struggling to picture how you used the rudder bearing, maybe it’ll make sense once I’m looking at the setup. Splat, Waikawa has a new boat that I’ll have some level of involvement with, yet to be determined, other than the delivery to start with.

Whats the best way? Boat is a Thompson with a canting prod. What’s the best permanent or temporary solution for sealing the hole somewhat? We have a coastal delivery coming up, in which we may want to use the prod, then just in general? I’ve seen various rubber boots, seem to be either stuck to the hull at the base of the prod, or a rubber boot that stays on the end of the prod. Are either of these suitable for a canting prod, what are they called and who sells them? I haven’t seen the boat yet, so I don’t have photos or specifics.

None of us were there to form a real opinion, and I’d be looking for answers if my boat ended up like that too. But, seen as you’ve asked, it’s easier for anyone to join either side. To play devils advocate- You do understand the ‘delamination’ surveyors are looking for are bubbles which have formed within the layup, not between the hull and an internal liner? Also, how does being well used cause voids in the layup? Are you saying previous damage and repairs have left voids in the hull layup? I’d want to know about that if I was buying your boat. If it lets water in, it’s

That might exclude more people of advancing years, rather than boats with no ‘traditional’ accomodation. Plenty of space in a sport boat cockpit. I’m also not coming to your Foiling Moth regatta.

I’m not well versed in the politics of the NZTYA, but I think this apartment distinction of ‘sport trailer yacht’ somewhat muddies the water. My understanding is you are either accepted as a TY (and comply with the TY rules, including outboard size), or you don’t. Sure, some that are accepted are more sporty than others - the Elders, Thompson’s, The Boss, Unleashed etc. but they are accepted as TY’s, have a rating, and a required min outboard size. The rest, don’t/aren’t measured, so aren’t (currently) considered TY’s - they may be yachts that live on trailers, but TY is actually a class, with

It is an Elder, yes. Having been well involved in the latest 2 Elder capsizing events, I can say they weren’t overly the boats fault. In the latest one, winds of over 60 knots were recorded. The boat had sailed through sever of such gusts at the point it was decided to pull the pin. The boat was hit by a further gust, side on, with both sails partially down, and no steerage. A R780 capsized, a Thompson was swamped, and a mast or two broken. 14(?) MOB’s. The previous capsize, the boat was hit with a 40+ knot gust, with someone with little experience briefly on the helm while other job

You need to really enjoy the after party to find them acceptable to sleep on.

Not sure how much help this will be. But here is the setup I had. Blue halyard is the jib and its fine tune. Yellow with black in the clutch under the cabin top is the main halyard. The black halyard only visible at the bottom right of the mast post is the kite halyard, running back to come out of the cockpit floor, with the pole out line. This was before the fine tune for 0’s. There is also a wire and winch on the post for forestay tension. Hope you sort your problem 👍

Different direction than your considering, but my previous boat, a sports boat, had all halyards out the bottom of the mast, just an open hole of ~1.5”, through a matching hole in the mast base, to turning blocks attached to the mast post. Main halyard stayed inside, other ran through exit sheave on the cabin top, and back to the cockpit. Could you remove all your mast foot sheaves and copy that? It also allowed for a fine tune on the jib halyard, and one for the kite halyard to tension code 0’s.

I doubt many people are pulling windows out of Easterly 30’s (or any other design) that are in a state you’d want to be re-using them. Especially, as IT says, as they are not that dare new.