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Frank

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Everything posted by Frank

  1. Same problem cruising in Fiji last year, apparently they are tiny jelly fish larvae and almost invisible, yes they itch like the devil for a few days, we used Soov ointment which helped a bit.
  2. Frank

    Summer

    Is that a Space Elevator in the foreground
  3. Decided to model my fathers first boat which as a youngster started my love of the sea and sailing. Dad said she was a Great Lakes Bonny design but the interweb reports nothing on that so my guess is she was marconi rigged Seabird Yawl (oxymoron I know with a modified cabin. The Seabird is the correct length and matches her hard chine hull form so I'll do a mash-up from this baseline, a few vague memories and the partial image on an old photo. laminating in the vertical plane should be fun for a change. The recent purchase of a thicknesser has kickstarted this half model binge, so muc
  4. Ooooof ! nice work, the Tufnell looked good too
  5. Frank

    Orca at Motuihe

    Nice ! and jealous !
  6. You should be able to find your past yachts here, the available range is vast, (167 pages) expect to pay north of $385 US, the shipping to NZ could be expensive . https://abordage.com/custom-models/custom-sail-boats/#
  7. I have pondered the same question but could not think of a good way to capture a multihull the Sundreamer model looks great though , nice work !
  8. Or 1/4 as much because you are only building half of a half of the boat
  9. Likewise I had to google that product but It was useful because I'm pondering getting an electric OB at some stage too. I do like the name though and its almost worth the purchase just for the bragging rights. When I was trying to wrap my head around the van LiFePo battery I found this diagram of the charge profile "helped me with my thinking", as you can see its relatively flat compared to other chemistries, my interpretation was Charging: At 13.6V the battery is starting to charge from near empty (10%) Discharge: At 13.6V the battery has just started to deliver the useable 80%
  10. That is very good value, I found a place on line that looked to be in the caribbean somewhere, they had a long list of designs for which they would ship you a half model but they were $450 US sans freight. One or two on their list that I was familiar with looked to have basic detail errors though.
  11. Yep, its surprising how much you can establish with a tape measure basic and data such as LOA, beam, draft etc. Then photos can give you a good approximation of sheer line, bow/stem/keel/rocker/rudder etc. I paste the photos into 2D CAD and trace over them, a camera does create distortion but you can compensate somewhat. The only aspect that is hard to really nail are the frame profiles/sections etc but the transom is a known and you can wing from there. The result wont stand close scrutiny if someone has the drawings and gets out the the calipers but its close enough to be instantly rec
  12. I decided that Kuaka needed, a companion flying off the port bow Another here is my carpenter 29 in kauri with Mahogany WL, the backboard is from an old oak cupboard. The basic process is straightforward and anyone who can use a jigsaw, plane, spokeshave and sandpaper will find it easy. If you have a lines plan just xerox the WL sections at 1/12 scale and glue to the laminations with spray on Ados F2. Cut them out with a jigsaw or if you have one a bandsaw, then stack and glue them in correct order bread and butter style (Modified PVA is good) From there rough it down to the inte
  13. Actually you just jogged a memory from 1980 ish, a colleagues parents had a Towson 32 and he was selling wooden half models at a quite reasonable price but he would not divulge the manufacturing technique. Later I heard he had made a pattern and then reproduced them on a friends Copy Router. I'm unfamiliar with that device but I wonder if it similar to that used for wooden propellers, they are ingenious https://www.google.com/search?q=wooden+propeller+shaper&sca_esv=594672148&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AM9HkKnOz2HPn3ZSIRZ9e1VYftb4jjlvBg:1703993064448&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=2ah
  14. Alas the labour content is too high however it could work if you modelled it in 3D and printed it although it would still require quite a bit of finishing and a backboard. A previous place I worked at had a large format 3D printer and a contractor who was a real pro with Solidworks. I'd done a half model of our Hood 38 and needed a copy for a partner so he scanned and printed it, I got the impression he put in quite a few hours to turn the point cloud into a printable file though (the one below is a 3D print)
  15. The new Kuaka is ready to be hung, the old one alas is done for. The backboard is Honduras Mahogany from some old building, it had a gorgeous grain and was nicer to work with than Sapelle. I need to do the Alan Wright Tracker at some stage I don't suppose anyone has a lines drawing ?
  16. I would get a small hammer and do a tap check on the outer hull skin around the keel, rotten wood or voids will sound quite different to areas of sound skin. (watch a you tube video on how its done there are bound to be a few) . With the external skin ruled out and feeling better already get an old screwdriver, sharpen the end to a point (we used to call it a podger, don't know why) and poke it gently into any suspect areas from the inside, any rotten or dozy wood, will be immediately apparent compared to sound timber as the point will sink in relatively easily. Furry timber that are still
  17. Apologies for stating the obvious but do use a solid wood core for those floors . Incidentally our Hood 38 has a fully encapsulated keel and there are no floors as far as I can tell but then the hull thickness is in the order of 40 mm or more at the turn of the bilge. She was built in 1986 and has spent most of her life offshore, last time I checked the keel was still there https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/hood-38-wauquiez/
  18. Agree with all above, IMO Joubert Gaboon (Okume) is of excellent quality and is easy to work with its also less work to finish as it has a tight grain. Meranti is OK but heavier and more coarse grained with a tendency to splinter on the edge so I much prefer Gaboon. There is a lot of absolute rubbish out there and some of it not so cheap either so don't muck around and buy quality from a reputable supplier. I use Plytech but there are others just as good. Last time I was there buying 6mm Okoume for the camper van I got lucky and scored the stack skin as a freebie
  19. Full disclosure I'm no paint expert, my comment about using 2K topcoat on an epoxy base coat are purely based on personal experience and observation of problems other club members had with this approach. Essentially what I experienced was that the topcoat degraded over time by dulling and becoming somewhat chalky in the sun (after 3 seasons). It was more a cosmetic failure than anything but still disheartening after the work and cost involved in a re-paint. It became a bit of a running narrative in the club as several boats suffered the same problem and needed repainting. Our tame prof
  20. All of what K4309 said and I would not apply 2K polyurethane directly over epoxy undercoats on external surfaces, use the system undercoat as a barrier between the two. International Perfection is a good system but also talk to these guys https://www.protectivepaints.co.nz/contact-us
  21. Frank

    Pier 21

    Mmmmm... I understand the antipathy towards Dalton but I think that might be drawing a slightly long bow
  22. Building a half model cos I'm bored with Netflix, the actual full size vessel is local and now beached, its still largely intact but will probably be scrapped. I'm told it is a sister ship to John Guzzwell's Trekka or at least shares a lot of its DNA. Trekka was from the board of Laurent Giles, circa 1958 or a little later. His designs are now with a trust and Trekka is in a museum in Canada. Neither organisation could provide lines so I measured what I could from the wreck and guesstimated the rest, I will find some recycled native timber for the backboard. The design has an open transom,
  23. I rode a push bike to work for years and got knocked off twice, in one instance the front end of the bike was torn off, in another I did a fwd roll over the bonnet at 32 km/h. In each case the helmets were ruined , the offending cars were in the wrong but its academic when your life is at risk, I gave up cycle commuting thereafter as I figured someone was sending me a message Not sure I would still have all my marbles if it hadn't been for the helmet.
  24. Mmmmm, I can relate to the sentiments but I cant see human nature changing anytime soon.
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