LBD

Consider if the blades and water flow pass obstructions like the dead wood, rudder or strut. When spinning if the upper and lower blades of a two blade propeller are both in time with (Close proximity) obstructions a "chatter" can develop in the drive line or rudder. The grey or blue instances can be fine... a two bladed prop in a position such as the red hull could be a problem. I will say if you only motor a little this would not likely be a problem but if you find your self motoring for days....

What Aadvark says... I used to look after many tourist vessels and this became std practice to comply with " Clean water standards" we used Miltons.

I am jealous... but my turn will come, have fun.

The wharf at Doubtful is a bit Gnarly from memory and you may need to time it for when the a tour boat is away. Usually there during the middle of the day. There were two outlets in Milford, the Lobster co in the Deepwater basin and the one the tour operators use in Freshwater basin. There was a time when you could time it right and get fuel from freshwater basin... at one time, I was very intimate with the fuel supply in the Freshwater basin... but that is a story to be told over a beer. First trip in the area, you will enjoy. It is on my list to revisit in a few years when I retir

I am not up on the latest... but the manager at the Deep Cove hostel used to manage diesel sales in Deep Cove... Double check with DOC Te Anau From Memory Milford was all BP so maybe check with BP Te Anau or BP on line

Have you checked all the cables and connections between start Battery and Motor...Cold motor takes more cranking and poor connections or old 1/2 broken cable ends exacerbate the problem which will be more noticeable when the engine is cold.

Oooo that take me back a year or two... early 80s mid winter Havelock... 3 am cold wind, frosty night...snow melt coming down the Pelorous river. I get a phone call at 3 am... Hey... is your dive bottle full?..... yeees... wwhhyyyy?....Just get your gear on and I pick you up in 10 minutes. Tug boat, 6LX 3:1 gearbox... towing a mussel barge, had wrapped a 2 inch tow line around the prop at Cullen point. 20 minutes working by feel with a couple of sharp knifes and several hacksaw blades.. it had wound up real tight and solid. Coldest I have ever been. The barge ramp was lowered into the w

Mixture of coastal cruising and occasional cub race... You have a point about new production boats.... Sloops losing favor... I think that the sail handling handling, winch sizes and sheet tensions of a large Genoa may be a factor... but there is also a move towards self tacking head sails that may be a factor. Then there is the tacking difficulty with a Cutter's inner fore stay being somewhat of a pain.

Thanks Jon.. I can appreciate the fractional configuration is a little more "Tweaky" than MH... but I would not say this fractional would need as much constant tweaking as I would expect with a light weight racy configuration trying to eek out every last bit of performance. (but I may be wrong... I only have MH experience) These boats are both known for being nicely balanced and not unlike the Beale 11.6 in many ways. What I have been reading is that a fractional can be easier to manage short handed and that they can get along under main only as the mainsail effort is a little furth

Thanks Scaecrow ... yes it has many parts, I guess the aim of the post is to tease out as many of those parts as possible that I am not yet aware of. Gennakers and code 0s is a good point to raise.

Hi Guys, I signed up to this forum a couple of years back, been poking around, I think I have made a couple of posts in the dim and distant past....probably on marine mechanical matters as that is my forte... but now I have a question as the heading states. I have my own opinions and thoughts on Masthead vs Fractional.... favoring twin spreader masthead for cruising and fractional configurations for racing.... but I am no expert, just somewhat opinionated.... Some forums and publications have them near equal rated in both cruising and racing worlds, hence I an seeking a little more clarit

With regards to a washer.... if the hole the the clevis pin fits through is a good fit then no, But if the fit is sloppy, then use a washer that is a neat fit to the pin. Always us a robust washer with the less sharp edge towards the split pin.

There was a ferro boat in Lytleton in the 70s... on the hard because it leaked so bad, looked like it had been plastered with a shovel, it was as smooth and fair as an elephants hide .... named "Turning Point" very apt as it certainly was for anyone considering ferro construction.

Definitely a positive shift... it is all to common to find some one who is a little timid with the gear shift... yes correct cable adjustment plays a big part of it too.

Huh?...Oh I get you...bit droll.... AS well as being higher tensile, corten is also more corrosion resistant than mild steel, so it has a couple of things gong for it.... difficulty to work with and some what specialty welding requirements, count against it

The sludge tank you refer to is to contain the toxins heavy metals and biocides that leach and wash out of the paint system used, the sludge tank is not to contain the natural organics that you see around mussel harvesters and growing in the bottom of your boat.

slow gear changes are also a cause of damage click.click..click...click....click.....click......click.......click........click.........click..........click...........clunk... if you get my meaning.... a solid clunk is much easier on the box.

If you keep running into dead ends, try http://www.duralloygears.co.nz/ They have made a few specialty gears for me in the past... will not be a budget option but will get you going.