Ed

Lanocote,, or put a piece of cut up milk bottle between the ss part and the alu. Then just dip the rivet heads in the lanocote

Excellent

Without getting a sample sent for analysis you wouldn't have a clue. On the flip side we goto brand name oils for our tunnelling gear for hydraulics, gearboxes, bearings etc. Never had any issues.

Para rubber or perhaps my wife's favorite shop, spotlight

Pullman is the one you are thinking of. If its on a cradle in the drive way then real quick and nasty solution is to drill a hole and let it drain out, wash it out then fill the hole with a bit of thickened epoxy.... I can understand if this would not be a preferred option

Wet and dry vacuum cleaner, or for smaller volumes one of those vacuum engine oil extractors.

talking to our electrician on site today ( who is also an inspector) EWofs can be issued by the electrician who does the original wiring when they complete it. After that it needs to be done by a competent inspector. As has been alluded to previously, Electrical inspectors have practice areas, so there may be a limited number who can issue ewofs for boats with 12v systems. I've had dealings with Peter Morfee on a couple of occasions, he is an incredible knowledgable but also practical guy, who basically led the writing of the electrical (safety) regulations. I'm at kind of the other end of

Seeing as global warming and sea level rise seem to be such popular active topics here recently, how about a Waterworld/Mad Max type thing?

My steel toecap boots from work are non marking soles, ideal for the boat! I freely admit I'm too soft to go barefeet, so have to wear something, but it depends a lot on what I'm sailing. If itsa trapeezing in sport boats, then i'm after lightweight windsurfing boots, wartm and grippy but not heavy. Long passages and I'm reaching for the sea boots. Got some good gill ones at burnsco last time they were on sail, very warm and waterproof with good grip but a little heavy Wednesday night racing on the cat and I've got the deck shoe version of the gill boot. Admitted a little spendy, b

Popcorn oclock

On a side note I would have a good look at that carbo block I assume is for the jib halyard. Depending on how you tension the halyard I would think the loads are getting very close to the max fit that type when new. For static high load applications I would look at using a low friction ring instead.

Some would argue that if a race boat hull lasted 25 years it was too heavy in the first place....

cruising is no extras though right? Number looks reasonable, also consider they have only ever finished once race according to racetrack

I would like to congratulate Taboo on their handicap win of division 7. In all seriousness, thanks for putting these together ScottiE, much appreciated

When can we expect the multihull handicaps to be published?

I found the process to use the mast gantry fairly straightforward, pm me for details if you want Hopefully we'll see further advances in new non fouling antifouls like propspeed for hulls, they are not perfect yet, but they can only get better

Just to close this out, bumper did a lovely job on a 24 hour turnaround, very happy

Cheers Marshy, I'll give them a call

Yep, but he is in the south island unfortunately

Anyone got a good contact for a bit of stainless electropolishing in Auckland, piece is approx. 600 mm long?

Whatever happened to cubic? But yes, more informal cruise trips of a weekend through the summer would be good, just out to motuihe for lunch on the beach or something like that

So long and thanks for all the fish.....

Make sure you look closely at the trailer on these boats, a lot of boats just go the couple of hundred metres from the boat park to the ramp and back again. If you get caught with a dud, a new trailer for a boat the size you are looking at will be an easy 15K on its own (Just ask my Father in Law, he has the nicest Nolex 22 trailer in Dunedin!)

This afternoons reading

not saying, because its usually nice and quiet, and I want to keep it that way