marinheiro

in the case of Swan, she is moored on her berth at Sandspit and her owner is at his principal residence in the Sth Is. You will also see Marmax, Peregrine and Stella Maris appearing from time to time on Marine Traffic - they are all on their berths at Sandspit The only boats that might be in breach are those at the bottom end of Waiheke & Gt Barrier

if you are junking the existing winch, don't mess around - cutoff wheel in a disc grinder to cut the gypsy off (it will be a copper/bronze casting so relatively soft), with protection on the surrounding deck and adjacent pulpit (some wet towels on top of hardboard or similar)

After winning the original RTR RKJ received the prize of GBP5,000.When the sad story of Donald Crowhurst and his suicide was revealed, he immediately donated the entire winnings to a fund set up for Crowhurst's family. That showed his good character! By the way his "big" yacht (he still has Suihali) is a Farr 56, shows good taste in choice of designer 👍

gave my Nilsson V3000 its annual clean and grease on the weekend. It is around 35 years old and still going strong! Had a reversing motor fitted by Grant N a few years ago. All bronze castings and a 38mm (1 1/2") shaft. Not like the toys fitted on the modern boats

as I recall you have the spinnaker in a sock, so I take the counter view for short handed cruising it is easier to work from the mast, just have a block at the base of the mast that can swivel forward so you can run the halyard thru one hand and gather the sock'd spinnaker with the other

better to drill and tap for the appropriate size machine screw. Apply an anti seize coating to the screws - Tefgel is the best stuff Isolate the fitting from the mast - cut a piece of plastic to size from the top of an ice cream container and place between mast and fitting done!

If you want to see some Big waves and a bit of the physics behind them have a look at this BBC series (6 episodes)

Happens more often than it should, usually due to corrosion of the structure in older vessels and it has been subject to discussion before by our very own John Clark - talking about the Kirki off WA in the 90's

Lamborghini's Riva - a really cool combination (was discussing this with an Italian colleague) https://petrolicious.com/articles/twin-lamborghini-v12s-produce-700-horsepower-in-the-fastest-riva-aquarama-ever-built

it is the same as the b.s that goes on with EWOF's for older boats.

If your boat was built 2013 of later it should have come with one. For Pre 2013 boats the only time there is a certificate issued is if a gas fitter works on it. If you want to get them off your back you can get a gas fitter to make a leak test, also a good idea to change any hoses if they are more than 10 yrs old. He would issue a certificate to say the work he has done is in compliance. These guys are out your way, https://www.marinesafegas.co.nz/. Have zero experience with them. If you were to approach them, or any other gas fitter, and your boat is older than 2013 you want to hav

As mentioned previously Pete's dinghy is a 12' Fyran. Received this reply from him to your fender question: "Have they not got anything more Important to do down there" 😁 "The fender I made myself, split tube of the right diameter to wrap right around and under. Alloy rivetted around inside edge, still going strong after 20 odd years now. The bumper is from the UK, Simpson and Lawrence I seem to recall."

you need to look around where the 2 arrows are, especially on the underside, sorry cannot find a rear view of the engine. at the front look between the alternator and the hoses above it. even if you do not see any salt leakage, I would suggest if the engine is more than 5 yrs old as preventive maintenance, you should be taking the end caps off, checking the seals and sealing surfaces and getting the heat exchanger tube bundle cleaned, the last especially seeing as your yacht has come from a warm water environment. If you have any doubts I am sure IT would check it out for

Just FYI, this is what a Naiad looks like sans tubes https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/dinghies-rowboats/aluminium/listing/3194582202?bof=lz0pcWTE You could keep an eye on Trademe for a 10 or 12' Fyran and buy one to see if ally works for you. Other options not previously mentioned here, but starting to have weight issues, are Mac Boat in Polyethylene: https://macboats.co.nz/mac-270-dinghy/ or an Aluminium pontoon dinghy, nothing under 3.4m in NZ, but found this in Australia eg http://www.oceancraft.com.au/2900pkg1.htm

That's exactly what James Mobberly recommends, he also suggests using one of the salt removal products, eg Saltaway. Said he was not so keen on Barnacle Buster, has found it is too aggressive and has caused problems with seals, gaskets etc. He did highlight you need to be using some sort of container to hold the fresh water and let the salt water pump suck it into the engine via a hose to the Tee you mention. Some people have plumbed up direct fresh water hose connections to the downstream side of the salt water pump and this has resulted in flooded engines

That is Peter Smith's Kiwi Roa in the background and the dinghy is a 12' Fyran he purchased before leaving NZ in 2008 (Priscilla is not Pete). Next time I talk to Pete I will ask where he got the fendering https://www.petersmith.net.nz/

Beta and Nanni and just about everyone else use the same concept Beta: Nanni notable that they both use 3 bolt end caps compared to the Yanmar's 2 bolt. Maybe they figured out these are a problem. The guys at Moons said they believe all the European assembled marine engines source their Heat Exchanger/Exhaust manifolds from an Italian OEM supplier, Mota. Fogg's turbo Yanmar is different, those are assembled in Japan c.f mine which came out of Yanmar's Netherlands factory.

The engine is 16 yrs old, but has only been in service 6 yrs, 1000hrs. The more i look at this the more I am convinced this was a manufacturing/assembly defect. When the weld repair is machined they will ensure all parts mate perfectly. If you have a Yanmar, have a good look around those end caps - noting the turbo versions have a quite different heat exchanger

Posting this to maybe help others avoid this problem on the Yanmars and other engines with aluminium body heat exchanger/exhaust manifolds. This is my Yanmar 4JH4E A few months ago I noticed salt crystals forming around the forward HEX end cap and and when pulled apart this was the situation and yet the rear one is just about in perfect condition What is noticeable is that the corrosion is on the part of the face between the clamping bolts. Will need to check if the face of the cover plate is dead flat. Hoping that Rocke can work his

so with all of the combined "expertise " here, have you been able to narrow down your choice?

Archangel often takes up "residence" off Buckleton's Beach in the summer

that's correct, his workshop looks like a classic electronics geek's hideout

There's a Chinese guy in Te Atatu who is quite good at fixing that sort of gear, http://www.efrontier.co.nz/estore/index.php?currency=NZD

looks like Sunbrella. any of the cover guys eg Bill B could make one

yes, Pete has always preferred ally dinghies. I went for a row in that dinghy when he first bought it and found the rowlocks were in the wrong place - too close to the seat. The Young 2.8 has the same error in its design