CarpeDiem

Then that would be an internal factory regulator .. yes? It would totally depend on the model and specifications of your outboard and the stator. 99% of outboards are not designed to charge deep cycle batteries. Stators generally don't have field control and the only thing that pushes back on them is the internal resistance of the battery of which Lithium has next to none. No resistance = maximum stator current output = excessive heat = black smoke I would suggest finding out what the maximum rating of the stator is and look at a DC/DC Li charger that runs at 30% of that capac

Do you mean a stator with a external regulator? I have never seen that. Who makes external regulators for stators? Assuming that's what you mean then the alternator can be replaced with a stator and the external regulator would manage the charge profile.

That article has done the rounds in every Lithium forum that I frequent. It has been well and truly torn to pieces by the community. Any credible accident investigator knows its not a single event or thing that causes an accident but a series of events. He doesn't give a single example, either hearsay or factual of a fire that's started due to a LFP battery. If the insurance industry is relying on this 'professional' to give advice we are dommed.

mā te wā - (written on her stern) It is a XP44 not sure about its history however.

Reasons given V5 - Engine trouble Charmonet - Loose rudder bearings Rum Bucket - Equipment Failure Legacy - Broken Backstay Vixen - No reason given Romanza - DNS DANG! On the leaderboard, the PHRF and PHS numbers are totally wrong - there is no way Wired has a PHRF o9f 0.896 or Mr Kite a PHRF of 0.713...

Out of curiosity is it a straight linear increase if you run (same length) cables in parallel? Eg, is two 35mm2 cables between contacts the same as one 70mm2 cable? Cause AWG2/0 is a seriously FAT cable!

Tracker is here for those wanting to follow the boats. https://www.rnzys.org.nz/rnzys-events/three-kings-offshore-race/

As of Sunday they were down to 23 boats. We had to pull out Monday due to to 4/6 crew developing Covid - very very gutted about it, but no one is to blame, sh*t happens. Sounds like they have had another pull out as well - sad for them too!

What about adding the option win in NZ, with a set of rules that allows us to play within our budget, which would result in less spectacular boats We write the rules right? We have $XM? Make a rule which limits team spending to $XM? Didn't we just develop some 8m foilers for the youth Americas Cup that were clocked doing 40knots without any tuning? Bet this program wouldn't cost $100M. Not saying it's the right answer but surely it must have been considered? Or am I over simplifying it?

You can sheet the sail to the green line. It is the LP which is a line at right angles from the luff through the clew to the deck? No? So assuming the blue line, the angle would be measured from the sail tack, I presume and not the J measurement point? Although on CD, with the furler, it's about the same location...

Yes, but is the plane at right angles to the luff through the clew (the LP measurement), or parallel with the deck (the J measurement)? Both the blue and green lines are 15degrees but from a different anchor point. So they end up in very different places on the deck depending on which you use as the anchor. I understand it's the angle, but what's not clear is what plane to measure the angle across.

So according to various sites, jib sheeting angles should be somewhere between 7deg and 15deg. But what plane gets used to measure the Jib sheeting angle? Is it right angles to the forestay? Or right angles to the mast? Or something else?

Check the source for TWD in the "sources" menu - I think it's under "true wind". Settings > Network > Sources > True Wind

Be careful you don't crank so much that you hydro lock the engine. I would suggest closing the raw water inlet till you get it started and have a spare impellor at the ready (ideally remove the impellor) to much cranking and you're going to be in a world of pain... It would be exceptionally unlikely for the glow plugs to be on the house battery...

A friend and I back flushed the raw water system, including sail drive, with Barnacle Buster. Engine has been in the boat for 32 months - done 196 hrs Removed the impellor, strainer and hooked up a pump to the exit side of the heat exchanger. First up we back flushed it for 5mins with fresh water to check for leaks/spillage in the pump before adding the BB - not much stuff came out, a couple of tiny bits of stringy seaweed type stuff less than 1mm dia the water was completely clear. Once we were sure we had no leaks we added the barnacle buster at a ratio of 1:4... WOW

I have heard of the boots slowly peeling back around the edges when surfing down waves and becoming a bit of a flappy drag. Personally I had not had a problem with them, although I have had past boots become pretty rough and lumpy and no longer being a smooth surface. I had to cut the boot off 19months ago, for a reason that I now cannot remember... and rather than replace the boot this was the alternative option I went with. I don't think there's anything wrong with boots, this is just an alternative option and not necessarily better.

19 months later. And first time out of the water. Still looking good and intact. Has lasted way better than the boot.

Yep - on page 1 of the thread as above - the by-law applies to the entire Auckland region, east and west coast.

The issue I found when investigating those Wallas oven/stove combos was, apart from the $10,000 price tag, the specific requirements for the chimney. The outlets have to be 12" above the water line when heeled over and the siphon loop has to be another 12" above that. This means that on any yacht that heels and periodically dips it's toe rails the unit has to be somehow exhausted up to the top/centre of the cabin top. Would work great on a launch or a Cat that doesn't suffer from heel. Not to mention that $10,000 would buy a top of the line Lithium installation.

[Serious thread drift now occurring...] I think you've over estimated how much power you actually use to cook a meal. I strongly doubt you'd ever use that much power cooking at home or on a boat. 40A @ 230v is 9.2kW - that's enough energy to vaporize 1kg of ice in less than 5 minutes. You'd boil that same ice in less than 45 seconds. Our little Breville oven, preheating to it's maximum of 230degC, peaks at 1800W of power consumption. After 30 minutes of runtime, so 5 mins preheat and 25min cook-time, the oven had used less than 0.4kWh of energy. That's long enough to tur

I have been surprised by how much you might actually need. On my lithium journey, I purchased a little 10A kwh counter that plugs into the wall socket and so you can plug appliances into that to get the power usage. I also picked up a $69 induction cook top from kmart. My wife and I cooked our meals on that for a week including boiling the jug for hot drinks. After a week we'd used only 1.6kWh. So at 12v that's 135Ah +/- ignoring inverter losses which won't be 0. We didn't extend it to boiling water for the dishes or running a little oven... so not an exhaustive test, bu

You pay for what you get right. And you'll be paying a lot for that setup. This setup is about as far away from a drop-in as you can get while still actually being drop-in... It's a bit different to a boat in that your main charging source will be the grid. Not the alternator, so you eliminate all the alternator concerns that exist on a boat. It looks like your mainly planning on charging in campgrounds where power is plentiful? If you're planning on extended (5day+) freedom camping you might want to consider a dedicated alternator/controller and get rid of the smart 12/12. Or

Very sad... https://www.sail-world.com/news/246130/The-Ocean-Race-Kiwis-out-VO65-on-market

Unless you have some actual evidence of LiFePO4, (LFP), cars turning to ash, or LFP batteries in airplanes causing problems, I have to take this with a grain of salt, or presume you're referring to completely different chemistries. LFP in cars has only become mainstream since around 2020. Prior to that manufacturers have mostly always opted for denser, lighter and higher delivery chemistry such as LiPo or NiCoMn. Tesla announced the option of LFP in 2020, citing the significant safety benefits of LFP. They have only done this in some markets and in some vehicles. Their longest ran

There is another thread on that here: https://crew.org.nz/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/20755-fire-at-pine-harbor/ Firstly it's possibly a rumor that this was caused by an Li-Ion battery installation. It could have been caused by the battery in someone's phone, or an electric tool... and thus still be called a Li-Ion fire. To your comment/question: Your boat is probably coming with LiFePO4 cells? If not, what is the chemistry? Any amount of energy stored on your boat is a potential fire risk. If that energy is escaping uncontrollably then it has to go somewhere and heat