CarpeDiem

The minimum I settle for is AGM 700CCA Bolt down terminals So long as whatever battery you choose has enough CCA to turn over the engine once. The rest are pros and cons. There's no right or wrong answer.

When you consider all the variables, 'not really' is the answer although it wouldn't be impossible. Solar/wind need to be managed differently. Alternators differently again. And Battery to Battery systems different again. Mains chargers again differently. A2B and B2B chargers are very expensive ($1500 for 100a) and they generate a lot of heat that you really don't want in your battery pack. You'd either not have enough charge rate or you'd be paying for too much that you couldn't use. You'd either have charge sources you couldn't use/didn't need, or you'd come to add a charg

No. That's not their job. The BMS is the last line of defence to stop you destroying the expensive cells. It should never be activating. BMSs have three core features: Over voltage protection - disconnects the battery from the charging source if the batteries exceed a given voltage ~3.7v/cell Under voltage protection - disconnects the batteries from the discharge bus if the cell voltage drops below a set voltage ~2.2v/cell Over current protection - disconnects the battery from either the charge or discharge bus if the current is outside parameters. (4th) Temperat

OEM is different. The charge source is engineered to run at 100% and will have current limiting circuitry. Boats are coming off the manufacturing line with Lithium. Fitted with Balmar alternators, cooling ducts and external regulators. These are designed to run at 100% all of the time. The issue is retrofitting without considering the impact on your charge source. Worst case it will lead to a fire in your engine bay. Best case everything will be just fine. If dropping in a Li, you need to consider it and know what you're getting in for. Or get a professional to provide a

That's potentially a bit of good luck.. Because you're using it as a start battery you're always into the reducing current part of charge cycle. So your voltage tops out at 14.6 and your current decreases until bottoming out. If you were to get your battery down to 80% DOD or maybe even 50% then you would risk burning out your stator and rectifiers as they would be running at 100% until such time as you got the battery back up to 90ish % And of course that cheap BMS is another point of failure. If it dies your bike stops. If it dies while you're riding, then you'll likely be

I determined that the only thing drop-ins were good for was a cheap source of cells. Rip them apart, pull out the cells and throw the bms and the case on trademe for a few $$. And then build your battery pack. Buying cells on their own in NZ is an expensive exercise - 4x100ah cells will set you back around $1200 - where as JayCar have unbranded 100Ah for $809 - for a weekend cruiser these are probably going to be "good enough".

The other key thing I should mention is having something to absorb load spikes if (when) the BMS cuts out. Sending 100amps back into your alternator because your Li got a bit warm on a hot day and cut out will fry your alternator. On most NZ boats with our traditional starter/house battery and one alternator this isn't an issue because the start battery becomes the load sink. But a lot of cruising boats have a second alternator for those big house batteries, so this alternator will need protection.

The max recommended draw rate from most LiFePo4 is 0.5C. Some are 1C, 3C and even 10C with external cooling. However that isn't the limiting factor with these drop-in's. You're limited by the built-in BMS. Eg, the Jaycar one you linked is rated to 50Amps max. My low end Maxwell RC8 windlass is rated at 100Amps, once I watched the shunt and it was pulling 87Amps. Compare that with your current LA battery which can probably sustain 500A for 30 seconds (my optima is rated at 770A) So that leads to an external BMS with a relay setup. So now the BMS controls 2x200Amp relays one

There's nothing fundamentally wrong with these units. However, they don't meet the NZ standard for Lithium batteries AUS/NZS 3004.2:2014 which could get you into insurance issues when installed on a boat. A number of other international forums I follow are littered with posts from people who have had insurance declined - doesn't seem to be a problem for NZ... yet. The key pros are weight saving per ah charge time The key cons are Your charging system Electric winches Many boats considering Li will have an electric anchor winch. You may need t

Pretty sure that that's for the 5000. Similar thread:

I have a short fender that goes on the diagonal 45deg bit between the pier and the finger. Cost around $200. Only seen 3mths of sunshine and been in storage for the last 3yrs since we moved to a no finger berth. Swap for a box of beer or bottle of rum. From the boat cover company - they make the best fenders - https://www.thecoverco.co.nz/product/marina-fenders/ Pick up Westhaven or Northcote.

Anyone know where in NZ it's possible to buy/hire/steal one of these: Seem to be very common overseas... I might need to join a gardening forum

Bubbles are gone. Recreational sports teams are considered a gathering. Distancing requirements within a gathering is gone. Gatherings at Level RED can have up to 25 unvaccinated people so long as the total space available to the gathering is at least 1m2 per person Or 100 vaccinated people so long as the total space available to the gathering is at least 1m2 per person You can also have multiple gatherings at a location but the gatherings have to stay separate and have the above space requirement per gathering. I think any boat would be hard pushed to

Common sense has prevailed. SportNZ and YNZ have announced that no physical distancing limits or mask mandates will apply to people participating in sporting activities such as yacht racing. Auckland clubs have started advertising a busy summer of races, kicking off on December 3rd. https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/clubs/covid-19-latest-updates

Most 230v drills have relatively low torque and high RPM. The Milwaukee M28 and the M18 are 122Nm The WinchRite is 130Nm and the Ewincher is 90Nm The electric high torque Makita drill is 50Nm - that might be enough... You probably want something that is at least 60Nm...

Nothing wrong with being hopeful, however, I certainly hope that it's a case of them having some inside information!!!

A few Auckland clubs have announced that racing will commence on 4th/Dec. Unless they know something that isn't public yet, this feels a bit overconfident in my opinion. But it's a stake in the sand. I would expect the clubs to take their cue from Yachting NZ and YNZ will take their cue from Sport New Zealand. Sport NZ are still trying to work out what the Covid Framework means for sport teams, they have committed to making an announcement this week. https://sportnz.org.nz/about/news-and-media/news-updates/covid-19-sector-update-18-november-2021/ Currently publi

Is there a large chunk of your furlex drum missing? Or is that an optical illusion?

I have used Cerium Oxide to successfully remove scratches on my windscreen from the wipers when the rubber came off. shop around - but here's a random Google link - https://www.glassstation.co.nz/products/cerium-oxide-100g

Climb up the mast wearing a harness that's tied into a halyard, have someone tail the halyard on a winch - DO NOT use the clip/shackle of the halyard. If you're going to be up there for a while (30minutes+) then a bosuns chair is a nice to have - we just just use a rock climbing harness for quick and easy access - they are more comfortable than a chair short term. We send someone up before every long race - so in Auckland that's generally 10 times a year...

Received this in my email today. Seems the widely discussed BoI Marine Mammal Sanctuary was signed into law today. Key takeaways: 1. Boats within 300m from a marine mammal must stop immediately until the mammals leave 2. Swimmers within 300m of a marine mammal must exit the water immediately 3. Certain areas have a speed restriction of 5 knots Supplied "User Guide" is attached. There will be a way for event organisers to work with DoC to get an exemption. BOI MMS User Guidance - DOC-6818995.pdf

https://www.tidetechmarinedata.com/grib-files-for-sailors

To replace metal padeyes. https://www.ropeye.com/usage

Did you turn the tubes? Or is that some prefabricated something else? How do you stop water ingress? Does it just pool inside the tube?

That's awesome. She was on our pier at Westhaven, what a spectacular improvement.