CarpeDiem

It's never. The current proposal is that bottled LPG will be replaced by bottled bioLPG by or before 2050 there is no end to bottled gas proposed. NZ industry/govt needs to get its sh*t together and build a manufacturing plant. There was one proposed for 2020 but it's still on hold. Connections to the natural gas network (not lpg) are a different kettle of fish. But nothing is currently confirmed and no date has been set and it might not even happen.

There's not really a date... Reality is the date will come and go and the only thing that might change is the price of gas... LPG will be replaced with bioLPG which is chemically identical to LPG, but can approach net zero emissions. You could replace your 9kg cylinder with bioLPG today and there'd be no difference, your appliances would operate exactly the same. The Government pipe dream of a 2050 net zero New Zealand signals that the transition will happen in the next 25 years Yes, approximately 40Ah at 12v.

Apparently they can be gimbaled. But I am at a loss to understand how you'd gimbal it with the exhaust requirements...

Magnetostriction. The amount of this is more about the cookware than the cooker. But it's pretty hard to eliminate altogether...

I looked at them but found the exhaust flu/chimney requirements just wouldn't work for our boat layout. https://wallas.fi/product/87-d/

You can't escape the cable requirements. Even at 50mm between your battery and your 3kva inverter you still need a 240amp cable which will be 75mm2. You could derate your inverter by installing a switch board with 10amp breakers, but this will drive your cost up fast as it requires an electrician and a inverter that can have a MEN configuration. Most inverters used in 12v cheap installations are IT, they have the plug/socket on them and you shouldn't run multiple devices off a single plug. I am yet to find a 12v LFP battery on the NZ market that is rated for 1C discharge. Most

What sized cables do you have on that? To meet the standard @ 240amps/3kw you'd need 70mm2 for a 1m distance between battery and inverter. That's some pretty hefty cable

The clear coat must be used completely or discarded after opening it can't be resealed. The other parts have a 2 yr shelf life from date of manufacture if sealed properly. I get between 2 and 2.5 years out of my applications so no point saving it...

Depending on needs you'll probably want to consider a 48v system with 2 - 3kwh of available power. With this you will want a 48v alternator and a 48v inverter probably a 3kw inverter so you're not running it at its limit... Your induction cooktop (assuming dual hob) will easily pull 2.8kw of you're running an oven at the same time as boiling water you could expect to top out a 3kw inverter. At this point you're up around $10k (and that's being really generous). You also need an engine with enough power take off available so you can motor and charge the batteries at 2-3kw, if you don't h

why do you want to fill them? For aesthetics?

So I am hearing the boats went to Mahurangi and decided not to participate on the Monday in the passage race. It's always surprised me that so many boats race to Mahurangi but don't do the Auckland Regatta passage race home on the Monday.

Your post implies you didn't do the Auckland Regatta - Mahurangi to Auckland race back to Auckland today - is that right?

We managed to rip the channel select knob off the front of the VHF Fortunately the microphone has a way to change the channel so we can still use the unit just fine. Anyone know of repair option? Ideally I would like to buy the part and diy the install. Thanks

The rule has been ignored. It's been a requirement since "forever". This has been covered a few times in a few threads on crew. There's quite a bit of international case law. Some dating back over a 100 years, where anchored boats have been found a contributing factor in an incident cause they did not have a look out. This has been applied to both commercial and recreational vessels. MaritimeNZ interpretation comes down from the treaty and prior international case law. One previous thread with more content is over here:

Yeah we need more details to be able to assist. Assuming LFP chemistry: If you're charging at 13.4v then they actually are not (really) charging. LFP needs a voltage differential of ~600mV to push li-ions across the electrolyte. That equates to ~3.4v/cell. At 13.4v the cell voltage is 3.35v/cell which isn't really enough to charge past around 30% capacity. Assuming typical lfp specs, with the correct charger, you could fully charge the battery in ~2hours. Don't confuse charging voltage with charged/resting voltage. 13.4v is the fully charged resting voltage after char

Can you post the specs on the battery? Photos of all the fine print, any writing, brand, model, etc would be good... Also, how are you charging it onboard? Specs on your charger would be helpful too...

Yes, on the VOR boats, these are actually called "spray helmets". You will mainly see them being worn by the trimmer and the helm. But usually just the helm. They let the helm continue to drive the boat while consistently taking a face full of water.

Not having used one, but I don't see that these devices would help... from what I have watched they are for reducing forces on the gear after the boom has swung through the cockpit. Which is the job of a good mainsheet operator... If you gybe with the preventer on, and for some reason didn't recover when you saw the main backing (eg autopilot failure) and it continued the upwind turn into the new weather, then I would expect the boat to just round up into the new weather, come to a stand still, hove too - albeit with a fair bit of heel if the conditions were ripe... I wouldn't expect th

"many other" is relative. I can't think of any boat I have raced on with a high enough boom I could safely stand under it... Elliott 1050, Ross 930, Elliott 10.5, TP52, Farr 1020, Bull12000, Elliott 10. Ross 35, Farr 11, Cookson 47, Cookson 12, Young 88, Young 11, Bene 323... None of these I could safely stand under... The one boat I have sailed on, but wasn't racing, was a Hanse 400e that boom was far away... Looking around there's a Farr 1220 and a Chico 40 either side of us that have high enough booms... But I don't think that this was a design consideration for the ma

Normal. This is a pretty standard height for boats of this era.

I have witnessed four people who have been hit by a boom, nothing serious but enough of a bang to have them on the deck holding their head and pretty much out of action. One had on going problems which took around 24 months to fully recover from... Three of these incidents were the helms person. Each one on a different boat. Over the years I have also taken a couple of taps to the head while helming Carpe Diem, these have been during tacks, never in a gybe. So definitely not a nonsense statement.

Wouldn't it make more sense to add a gybe preventer than a helmet? We carry a ski helmet for going up the rig underway.

I roll out a thin strip, stick it down, wrap it around the nut and crank it down. Have never had a bed-it leak... The recommend process is a bit more multi-phase... https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

Great work getting this in and making it available. Thanks!

I have had experience with gasket hoop and won't touch it again. Making gaskets is incredibly easy. Although time consuming. I made my first one last Sunday for my heat exchanger/exhaust manifold. It was oddly satisfying... I was wrapped with how easy it was. I watched this video... Purchased a craft knife set and a litle ball pein hammer some gasket paper and I had a gasket within 4 hours! Now unfortunately the factory one I had already ordered and paid for showed up a week earlier than expected before I got to reassembly. But I have absolutely no doubt that my home