Island Time

Nope, would not upload for me either. Sent message and files to editor. Happy I don't have to do this any more!!

Good job Steve. There would be a few here who would be happy to discuss this with them. They could even create a user just for that? I'd believe it after it happened though!

Ha ha, yep, its the time it takes that gives the poor reputation these systems have. If your prepared to learn and do it yourself, they are great and reliable once sorted, but if you pay for this, it takes time and is therefore expensive!

Just keep this in mind. Some installs Ive seen, the alternator charges the start batt, DC-DC charges the LiFePo4. Technically OK, BUT you loose the main (IMO) advantage of LiFePo4 in that most DC-DC chargers dont have anywhere near the output of a decent alternator, so you bank charges much more slowly. Better, (also IMO) is to use a proper good alternator, with ext reg and temp sensing - for the ALT! to charge the LiFePo4 and then DC-DC to charge the Start and Accessory (Thrusters, winches etc) batts. This is a very good doc on LiFePo4 - incl some basic setup diagrams https://marinehowt

TX valves are not simple (except mechanically!), as they adjust superheat. Superheat is a concept many struggle with. Here is a good article on the subject https://www.achrnews.com/articles/96890-understanding-superheat So, in this case, what I was talking about is that the TX valve also regulates how much refrigerant can pass, and effectively slow down or speed up the flow rate in the system. The frosting on the return line is where the liquid refrigerant is getting to before reverting to gas. If the flow rate is too fast, liquid can get back to the compressor - cant compress liqui

Think about this. The LiFePo4 battery does not want (or like) to be kept fully charged. The Lead Acid MUST be kept fully charged for decent life. Standby voltage for a LiFePo4 batt is around 13.4v, which conveniently is pretty close to the float voltage of an AGM. So a VSR is OK, but normally I put a switch in their circuit so they can be manually disconnected when needed. Most DC-DC chargers have an input and output, so no, not bi-directional.

Vsr's dont care where the voltage comes from, if it's high enough they will engage. They are available in single and dual sense (single watches one batt voltage for switching, dual watches both/either.)

No problem, it'll work fine. Personally though, I'd go for a Victron controller over EPEver. More reliable, better interface, more programmable, and better output.

Here is Legasea's link to a submission you can make. Only unitl Friday Night 8pm... https://legasea.co.nz/action/campaigns/hauraki-gulf-marine-park-marine-protection-proposals-submission-form/

Did you mean R152a? That's a replacement for R134a, but Ive never heard of R154 (not that that means much!) If it's right, is it new?

If it's a sticking TX valve, sometimes a sharp tap with a hammer will move it if it's stuck (or dirty). This is not 100%, and if it starts working only shows it is the valve, it's not fixed and would almost certainly do it again. To change the valve the unit needs the gas removed (or stored in the accumulator if fitted) unfortunately, so it's a job for a fridge tech.

A couple of things could cause this. Are you sure the sight glass was empty? Not just full of liquid? A stuck txv valve could be it, so could ice. Does the centre of the sight glass indicate its wet? It changes Color to do that, but the actual Color depends on the unit. It’s normally indicated what Color is what on the outer ring of the sight glass. If it’s wet, change the filter/drier. When it’s on, make certain the clutch engages, and the centre of the compressor is actually turning. What you should see in the sight glass is 1stly nothing, then after a few seconds some liquid

The bearings can be bought often at a fishing reel repair place. If you can get the cups off, use CRC marine and then put a battery drill on the cup shaft, spin for a min each direction with the drill. The crap often drips out while doing that. Then turn slowly with your fingers, any resistance or roughness = new bearings....

Probably bearings. Don't know about stowe, but most can be replaced. Even cleaning can fix some, they get full of crap over time...but you'll have to take it down.

Nah, it was great fun (I did 2010)! Have a go.... It is a commitment though!

Different dealers have a different perspective I guess. I was told (after my own MDI failed at 200hrs) by the local dealer that I could NOT mount the mdi anywhere else, or it would void warranty. I do agree CD, that there is no technical reason why it should void the warranty, and likely would not, if push came to shove... I'd rather not get into a legal battle. Volvo have replaced my own MDI 2x now, less than 500 hrs old. I've also been involved in several customers needing replacements. Expansion tank. Provided the expansion tank is full enough for the exit to remain immersed, ther

Yes. Also, the coolant tank is not and has not been an issue on any of the boat fitted with a D series that I've worked on. MDI boxes are another story. Here is an iteresting link about them https://nordkyndesign.com/engine-reliability-a-look-at-the-volvo-penta-mdi-black-box/

Quite right CD. I presumed he meant LiFePo4, which I shouldn’t have. IMO LiPo batteries have no place on a boat, and I wouldn’t have one.

No problem. Welcome aboard!

Hmm, did I not read this right? LiFePo4 makes an excellent house battery system if properly set up. Way lighter, way faster charge, no sulphation, does not need to be kept full, much more stable voltage, and much longer life. short term, if not keeping a boat, AGM. Long term, lead is dead! (Except for cranking/winch/thruster batts!

I’m no expert, but my understanding is that they spawn if scraped - in the water.

Yes. But NZ regs are not up to date with lithium batts yet. They likely will conform to the ABYC and European standards. Currently you must have an audible and visual alarm at the normal operation location of the vessel that warns the operator of a faulty and impending disconnect (bms turning the batt off for any reason). You also need to consider that standard batt fuses don't work, you need to upgrade to a fuse with AIC ratings of 20000 amps. That really means class T fuses. Alternators need to have temp sensing, so mostly that means external regulators like balmar or wakespeed.

South Pacific are fine...

Depends on the keel design. Most lagoon legs sit under the gunnels and have a for and aft guy to stabilize them. like this;

Hello Jack. There is no reason to post in multiple threads. Most users use the "unread content" button and will see your posts regardless of which forum or thread they are in.