Island Time

rates are sure increasing! Makes our place in the GH marine village more attractive - we are paying ~$2400/yr for a 15m berth (license to occupy comes with the house), and plan to rent both in 5 yrs when we go offshore again....

This is complying. Make your alterations clear and early. Your other examples are a vessel NUC - not able to make way in a controlled manner. Most yachts don't carry the correct lights for that (red over red - skippers dead!) or day shapes (two balls - a balls up!) and a VHF Securite call on 16 to alert any approaching vessel of your position is sensible. DSC works well for an approaching ship.

The colregs also say that both vessels must avoid collision. The stand on vessel only maintains course and speed until it's obvious that the burdened vessel is not going to alter course/speed. Then at that point the stand on vessel must slow down, back up, or change course as required to avoid a collision. There is NO might is right rule. Saying a yacht can get run over in a channel by a vessel over 500 ton means the yacht was in the wrong. It's unlikely the ship's crew will die..... A prudent skipper (of the yacht) might elect to stay out of the channel altogether, or

Come on guys, the rules are there so that other skippers know what your are (likely/supposed) to do. There is no "tonnage" rule, except in areas of restricted navigation, as above- the 500 ton rule inside pilotage limits. If you can keep clear of any larger vessel so there is no collision risk and you'll pass outside the prohibited zone, well and good. If not, then the rules say once there is any perceived collision risk, the stand on vessel is REQUIRED to stand on, so the burdened vessel can make the required changes to create the separation needed. Before that, make any changes ea

Try this compass! Can't adjust for this! Compass (1).mp4

While that is correct, the order of priority is, Not under command, restricted in ability to maneuver, constrained by draft, fishing vessel, sailing vessel, power-driven vessel, seaplane. However it's disappointing to notice how many fishing vessels have their day shapes welded to their masts! When NOT fishing, they are just a power vessel.

Rogue split their main in 1/2...

Sorry, forgot about this. Works fine for me on Edge. Must be a rights issue, you'll have to PM the editor. Sorry...

Cheap crap PVC doesn’t last. Some of the best PVC’s are pretty good. Hypalon (brand name) is no longer made, current high end inflatables use TPU. But I had a PVC one that did 13 years. Next one (budget) did 3. Now I have a TPU one…

There is no need for that. All jurisdictions can make there own rules for their territories. And do. They can quite easily say that a watch is required for vessels underway (IE not anchored or aground).

Yep, but he couldn't come for 3 weeks !

Just a standard tungsten scraper with a long handle (well ok, a short one with a bit of broom handle in so about 350-400 mm). I started sanding with 40 grit and vacuum extraction, but too slow for 10+ layers. To begin with I was crap at scraping, then got a lesson. The key is NOT to round the blade corners as some advise, but to work along the boat using only 10-15mm of the blade edge to remove the paint. Hardest bit was getting started... The blade is still flat to the hull, but progress only the 10-15mm each time and you can take off a multilayer strip each time quite easily. Oh

Yep, sure did! Not 20 anymore 😞

Yep, as BP said. Learn to adjust your compass, or alternatively pay someone to do it (that's what the commercial boats do, they need valid compass adjustment docs...) info here; https://msi.nga.mil/api/publications/download?key=16920950/SFH00000/HoMCA.pdf&type=view That being said, most marine compasses will still work without further adjustment, they just will have the card at the angle of dip....

Well, wasn't just this weekend, but the last couple. Took IT out of the water, and scraped and sanded 23 yrs of antifouling off, right to the glass. The glassed over the lead on the keel (The exposed lead always had issues with paint adhesion) as far down as I could, then 2 epoxy barrier coats, and antifouling. The scaping and sanding is getting harder! 13 days out to in.

That is right for 99% of the cruises and passages out there. Until you have a complete electrical failure - it's happened to me once on a leaky boat delivery. Then the (adjusted!) compass becomes your best friend!

Nope, but yes to different corrections. The earth's magnetic field is not identical everywhere. Mostly compasses are northern hemisphere or southern hemisphere from the supplier. Then a compass adjuster can correct for actual locality .

OK, so this is a progression. I thought the sense wire blew it's fuse all the time? Turns out it doesn't. The install manual was not followed. The sense wire MUST be connected to the battery that the alternator can see, ALL the time, as when disconnected it will go to full field to try to raise the (sense wire) voltage to the specified voltage. Do not connect a sense wire anywhere else but to the battery - that's why its's fused. This is the issue with remote diagnostics. Without an accurate circuit diagram it can lead you down the wrong path very easily. Yes the .3v is mos

Normally numbers, not letters. Compasses can be adjusted to suit each region. See https://www.maritimenz.govt.nz/content/commercial/safety/safety-management-systems/recognised-surveyors/recognised-compass-adjusters.asp They come to your boat, and adjust the compass, and provide you with a deviation card. This is normal commercial/offshore boat operations...

The fuse is not supposed to blow. It's there to protect the wire and prevent a fire - it's doing that. Oh, and you have done the test - replaced the fuse. Remember that the sense wire is connected directly to the battery, and could carry ANY current the battery can supply if it is connected to neg directly. To be like this would be a failure of a component in the reg, which is not serviceable. Replace it.

OK; You guys are expecting the (OLD) Balmar reg to be smarter than it is. It WILL NOT throttle the field back without voltage sense OR battery temp sense. For it to be blowing the voltage sense fuse repeatedly indicates a failure in the regulator. It's encased in resin and is not normally economically repairable. It's trying to full field the alt as the v (sense) is below target voltage. By the time the batts got too hot at >15v they would likely be damaged, possibly severely. Replace the reg. Sorry.

Yeah, I take that "NO" back. Seen a better video - longer - he definitely tried to head up.

No

Write to YNZ at the email they give on page one. I have tonight, pointing out inconsistencies and contradictions in the Briefings Newsletter....

Nah, 7deg in east bay Queen Charlotte was the "cold" dive of the year, start of the scallop season. 7mm wetsuits in those days, now everyone wears semi or drysuits!