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Everything posted by alibaba

  1. Agree. Surface tension and the structure of the ply tends to suck water up the wood pores, often quite a long way from the initial problem For peace of mind, after getting back to dry ply, I would put an internal tingle over the area, then you know you are bulletproof.
  2. Looks very similar to propspeed. Did it require a primer and separate topcoat[s]?
  3. The chance of transmission of virus between boats when racing is ....nil. There is no reason why races cannot go ahead if boats are crewed, as many are, with only the people in that bubble. Certainly, it would be disappointing for mixed bubble crews, but to ban all racing is not logical .
  4. Let's see, some simple[?] arithmetic. This development is not being done by one developer with half a dozen trucks etc. It's being sold as approx 90 odd separate lots, for individual builders. If we assume reasonably, that each builder will bring at least a truck and a ute to the build - which seems to be my observation of what is going on in my street - that means a minimum of 180 vehicles on site each day. Where will they park? That means on average - neglecting peak times, a truck movement every 90 seconds. Add in the delivery hiabs with precast materials and timber?? I'm not saying th
  5. Another alternative which I have used with good success is Dow Corning 795 , available from Glasscorp.
  6. Used NO 5 for years and it works well. I get two coats for my 9.2 out of a 4l can,but admit they are thin ones. It's important to avoid build up on the non-wear surfaces so I use different colours. The underlying colour is black, and then two thin coats of green. When I haul out, I can see where the green has worn by the black showing through, and I only put this year's antifouling on those thin areas. Otherwise, the stuff builds up and every so often you have to do the unenviable job of scraping- ugh!
  7. Thanks for the info. I have a spare old one, so once lockdown is over [ ?? maybe??] I'll whip it into Burnsco and try to match it
  8. This is probably grasping at straws given its Yanmar, but does anyone know of an impeller equivalent for a Yanmar 3GM 30? I have been giving my engine a birthday - filters etc, and find that a new Yanmar impeller is $160, which seems a bit steep to me.
  9. alibaba

    What if...?

    Now that the initial panic of last year is [ should be ] over, it's time for the powers that be to THINK about the logic of lockdowns. The purpose of a lockdown is to stop people meeting other people and transmitting the virus. Let's have lockdowns - they are necessary, but let's be sensible. It's time for activities which are intrinsically safe to be allowed. eg the local butcher should be able to open with a barrier at the door, people request their meat, and the [masked] transaction takes place without contact. If it is OK for supermarkets, it should be OK for this sort of thing. The small
  10. I think you might have a case against Auckland Council for infecting your clean, antifouled vessel with their totally infected marina piers. In any event you should ask for photographic evidence.
  11. alibaba


    I was in Hokitika a little while ago and looking at some historical info. Apparently they use to lose around 1 in 10 vessels trying to enter. The whole coast around the Hokitika river is very shallow, and I would think that sailing ships would be praying for a decent westerly to give them plenty of steerage way.[ and a high tide!. The Grey is simply frightening when the river is running due to rain, with incoming vessels having to fight into about an 8 knot flow. Takes a long time to cross. I now realise why nearly all the fishing boats in the harbour were big ones! Mind you- I saw a skip
  12. small correction to 'nobody listens to VHF on the west coast'- they certainly do, and if reception had been OK they would have been heard. Unfortunately, there are some real dead spots around Bethells in particular and also off Muriwai. Ch 16 goes through the Sky Tower and of course as we all know, VHF is line of sight because of the high frequency.
  13. Obviously quite hard- The red can at the entrance to Islington Bay has been cast ashore for how many years now? I knew it was going to be a problem when they handed over from the Harbourmaster to Auckland Transport. Maritime stuff is actually different to roads. I think the Harbourmaster actually does a good job with the limited resources they have.
  14. How much overlap have you got? ie from the inside of the cutout in the cabin side to the outside of the window pane? If you have 20-25 mm, then the best way seems to be to use glazing tape around the cabin side to hold the window on. Then, mask carefully level with the outside of the window, then fill the gap between the glazing tape edge and the top[outside] of the window - hope that is clear. The glazing tape not only holds the window on firmly, it provides a 5mm gap for the adhesive sealant. There appear to be plenty of different sealants about which would work, but the only one I have
  15. Whichever product you end up using, the key here is to make sure that there is sufficient thickness of bead between the acrylic and the cabin side. This gives the adhesive some ability to move with expansion when the temperature changes. I found the best way to do this was to use glazing tape, available in rolls from Glasscorp, Fit the window to this lining the inside of the cutout on the cabin side. This holds the window in place firmly - really firmly, and then fill the gap with the adhesive. Glasscorp also sell nozzles for the cartridges which can be rotated and bent through various angles,
  16. Nice design for first boat, good reputation for sailing kindly, plenty of room. But- please be careful and have the fibreglass hull properly surveyed, boats of this era did have some problems with osmosis. Also, from personal experience, read the above two comments re the vendor. Best first boat for me in all aspects would be a Tracker Good luck
  17. I've done two sets of windows with Dow Corning 795. One stop stuff, gives a nice clean seal if you mask off properly and sticks to anything - be warned. I got mine from Glasscorp in Bush Road, who also sell the adhesive foam liners. These enable you to stick the window to [ a good] substrate, and then the goop is just there for the sealing. No problems after 5 years.
  18. I used a platers in Parity Place, glendfield a few years ago, they were quite good. Nice job of polished chroming.
  19. I agree with KA, whatever you do, do not use a recommendation from the broker.
  20. alibaba


    It IS interesting about the units used. The masthead indications seemed to be in Kilometers, but even the commentators were caught out a couple of times. At one stage on day one a boat was said to be doing 72 knots! I guess they are aiming to hit a world-wide audience of non-sailors.
  21. Devonport Yacht Club works well. It's true that you have to have been a member for 6 months prior, but if there is space on the hard after the members have requested haulage, I think they may well welcome new members. Two slips, and possible hire of cradle if there are spares. I think the contact numbers are on the web. dyc.org.nz
  22. If it is a Maxwell - all the parts for those are still available I think. The contact for that is : Allen Hutton@Australian Yacht Winch Company. email: winches@attglobal.net. I have had dealings with him for the winches on my last boat and found him to be very helpful both as regards manuals and parts. If it isn't a Maxwell, he may well know what it is.
  23. I think flares are really good on a dark night out of town. People notice them, In town, not so much, Coastguard did a flare test exercise about three years ago, to check visibility etc. They let 5 different flares - including handheld and rockets off. Positions a] Motuihe Passage b] Bean Rock and c] Orakei. Thought we'd get lots of calls from people reporting - I mean, 15 flares all up. Total number of calls coming in to the ops room on that night - 8, in a city. I think that around Auckland Harbour there's just too many lights. So - I carry flares for when I'm out of the harbo
  24. The one I used in the end is part number 60099BL, it's a Narva brand, Repco have several different ones, and you should be able to find one which fits your cutout on the panel. cheers
  25. Thanks folks- Repco had the deal, intermittent switch rated at 50a at 12v. Hopefully problem solved.
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