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Marina eWof requirements

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I have just received the latest Tosh from Westhaven about increased "electrical safety" requirements.

The upshot is, that unless you have an electrical warrant of Fitness, you will not be able to leave your dehumidifier and battery charger running while you are away. This is whether you have your lead tagged or not. Ewofs are not the same as lead testing. They are designed for boats that have a full AC system fitted and are hard wired. They also cover your DC system.


As per usual, the Marina operators association mention no electrical standards and do not mention who is qualified to issue an eWof or what tests are involved. They also say that they themselves have no idea about electrickery, therefore putting themselves outside the loop of any discussion. That's handy!


The pretty brochure is attached.


I suggest the Marina Operator's association familiarises themselves with AS/NZS 3004 to see what they are lumbering their customers with and also to check whether any inspectors know what they are inspecting.. At a bare minimum I would expect any person inspecting the boat to have a copy of this documentation.

Everyone needs to be aware that to obtain a real Ewof, the boat's entire electrical systems, AC and DC require to be inspected, and all metal parts need to be bonded to the boat's earth with a resistance of less than 0.5 Ohms.


This is a real pain in the arse and if done correctly, will cost $$$$. I am also not sure that I want an MEN system on my boat, as it is not always the best idea. I will also have to do some reading about galvanic action created by connecting my boat's earth to the marina, and therefore every other boat in the marina. Any stray earth leakage currents created by these other vessels will end up sitting in my keel and rig and looking for a path to earth if for any reason the marina's earth is disrupted. I don't like that much.


Might be a good market for Galvanic isolators in the near future!


I will be interested to hear from Westhaven as to what calamitous events involving shore power have brought about this change in marina regulations..



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OK, an update to this older thread. The 1st point to note is that the 2014 version of the "regs" IS NOT LEGAL. It has not been sighted, and is therefore not (yet accepted) by the electrical regulator

Bazza, make sure you use the anode attached to the engine, after that system went in she was burning through the anodes on the shaft.   Smithy, the system on Bazzas boat was put in by Gavin at Marin

Yep, even though I used to blow the odd thing up, cover the ceiling in molten Galv, or produce large quantities of smoke, I at least did it with safety in mind. For instance, if KM and I were putting

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I have looked into this myself quite a bit. It is unclear in the regs exactly what permanent connection is. A boat by it very nature is a "Temporary" connection.


No one really knows what is required on a boat, and every "expert" I talk to about it has a different story, although often only slightly.


Some say testing the DC install is all that is required. Some say that screwing the ebox to the wall and installing a proper 16a plug/socket on the boat is all that is needed and you can have an ewof.


It's a real PITA if the 12v systems are required to be inspected  as well, there is a real shortage of competent people let alone certified, that understand the electrical side AND the potential consequences re galvanic corrosion.


If the 12v side is to be enforced, they are basically making it impossible to plug in to shore power.  :roll:


Finally there has not been a single incidence in NZ that I can find that any of this would have prevented. More bureaucratic nonsense.

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I went through this a couple of years ago and elected to go down the eWOF route with attached cord as I figured that they would change the rules a few times and go down this route anyways, given nobody knew what they were requiring.


Gavin at Marine Electrics did a pretty good job.


But what a complete pain in the arse.

Had to coil up the attached lead and stow on the boat, which cruising was a pain in the arse as it took room, and racing it was a pain in the arse as it got wet a couple of times when racing in some seriously heavy sh*t....salt just loves this kind of sh*t...


I then started burning through anodes at an alarming rate, which meant replacing, and that was a complete pain in the arse....So then had to add an anode to the engine and dangle over the side, which was also a pain in the arse as I then had to stow it with the engine...


Can understand if was for boats that plug everything in, but for just a dehumidifer I think its overkill.


Guess you could coil it next to the hose you now need to carry as these arent dock supplied anymore as well.....

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Why not just rely on your 12V system and solar to maintain it so you can run your equipment without shorepower.



Dehumidification is easy to do yourself:  simply run a hose below your boat but above the low tide mark to draw water through a coil of copper tubing, pumped with a 12V pump slowly.  Run a 12V fan to blow air through the coil and drain the condensed water into a bilge to be pumped out by your bilge pump.  The whole system uses a LOT less energy than a commercially availble dehumidifier, and it will only function when it will do any good: when the air temperature is above the dew point - when the sun is shining.



If you don't have a solar system to charge your batteries...well, get one.

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The electrical inspector from Warkworth checking boats at Sandspit has been getting stuck in on the DC side, I know of a couple of people who had to change wet batteries to sealed  ones due their not complying with the ventilation requirements.

Galvanic isolators help to maintain isolation from other boats or marina leakage, but they can fail periodically and with most you only know if you test them. Only sure way for protection/isolation is an isolating transformer, either traditional windings type or an electronic type such as



might be an interesting question to ask your respective marina to provide their own certificate of compliance to ANZS3004 part 1.

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I called up Beacon (they were very helpful) and to get an ewof for Deeds I need to have the boat out of the water to fit an through hull (both hulls?!) earthing strap, fit a 240v plug, shore power plug and fitted ebox thingy.. 


As I am on the boat a lot I'll just leave the shore power lead ready to plug in when I am down there.

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This is rediculous. Did the explain why? As in, what trouble it may cause?

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Hi Craig

Like nearly all marinas in New Zealand, Westhaven Marina now requires that customers comply with WorkSafe standards with regards to marina electrical connections. 


There are generally two ways that you may connect:

1.     You may connect to shore power temporarily at Westhaven using an eBox with current tag and test. A responsible adult must be on board while the boat is connected. 

2.     If you wish to connect your vessel's AC system to shore power and leave your vessel unattended, you will require an EWoF (Electrical Warrant of Fitness).

These are detailed in a leaflet produced by the New Zealand Marina Operators Association which you can download here


Westhaven will expect all connections to conform with the standards as described in this leaflet by Easter 2017 in order to continue to provide your berth with power.


There are a number of electrical service providers that can help install a shore power system for you, and provide you with an EWoF. A list of these is in our contractor’s directory.


This leaflet can always be accessed from our website - click ‘Using the Marina’  and then select ‘Your Berth’ 


We appreciate these standards are more strict than those previously advised and will require changes on some boats and that some of these may be inconvenient. Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.


The Westhaven Team




137 Westhaven Drive Auckland

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This is rediculous. Did the explain why? As in, what trouble it may cause?

New rules... must admit I thought the ebox was the way to go for small boats as they are very safe.

Mine is a Jackson one that they use on building sites ... unattended building sites too ... not sure how that works if our rules are the same as theirs. 

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