Plywood Deck Finishes

[Fish 0]

Its come to that time our teak deck needs to be replaced after 25 years of good use. My primary funding plan of winning Lotto hasn't quiet come to fruition yet so we arn't putting new teak back. Deck is curently teak over ply so are looking at removing the teak, checking the existing ply, putting another layer of ply over for strength, and finishing with some sort of paint.

 

What is the best finish system?

We are curently looking at a two pot paint with non skid mixed in before application. We will do all the prep ourselves but have a profesional lined up for the application, and will be in a shed

 

Are there two pot expoxy options about?

How could you produce a gel coat type finish as on a glass boat?

Would a fibreglass mat and resin skim give better durability?

We currently don'e see the benefit for cost of any of the plastic teak alternatives.

 

What would you expect the life / durability of a two pot paint system to be on a fairly heavily used deck?

 

Cheers

Fish

PS If I win the power ball tonight please ignore the above

[John B 106]

If you're going to all the trouble of doing that , removing the teak and laying ply then you really should finish it off as a proper job and glass it as well. If its glassed then again for longevity and a professional finish it'd be worth two pot painting it.

[col j 0]

ill second that comment about laying glass over the ply. did that on pahi, would do it again. use some peel ply to press the glass flat and save a bit of weight by not needing as much bog. then the 2 pot system over that.

[wheels 543]

Why not the genuine imitation plastic teak alternatives??? Is it still too expensive?

You would be nuts not to glass the new ply if you go that way. It's a must. As for the coating, any two pot top coat will do, and then you sprinkle the grip material. Variouse types available. Sand, Silica, Plastic beads, and Rock salt that after the paint dries, yu wash the salt away and are left with the ruff surface. But the best I think is the thick top coatings that you roll on and leave a stippled surface, or the one with fine chopped rubber in it that leaves a nice grippy surface. Dek Tred, No slip and some others I can not remember.

[Fish 0]

Glass finish it is then, think we where looking at that anyway.

 

Wheels the imitation teak is in the order of $7,000 materials plus someone to lay it properly, could possibly manage it ourselves but it must be measured and made to order so no real possibility for DIY cost savings. Teak in the order of $11,000 to $13,000 materials and we def can't lay that ourselves properly so roughly $20,000 all up. The ply is about $400 and we are capable of glassing and preping for a the painting, although we choose to get a pro to do the top coats as that bit is worth it.

 

What is the best method for non skid? The chopped rubber sounds interesting. We had a go at the sprinkle and role onto tacky paint technique previously but htat wasn't so successful. Was outside which didn't help and we had varying levels of dryness in the paint which lead to inconsistencies...

 

Col J what sort of two pot paint did you use? And non skid?

[col j 0]

i was only a helper really. but i think it was awlcraft 2000 in the glossy areas, a white colour. and the non skid was a custom grey colour that had shitloads of grit mixed in it by the builder. use the right highbuilds and undercoats and sand properly between the undercoats.

 

we also got into future proof mode and did glass tubes for all the through deck fitting fasteners. mind you the boat was taken right back. rotten, heavy ply deck replaced with 9mm gaboon with doublers rebated into the frames in high load areas. hours on hours masking around where the fittings were going

[col j 0]

and when the powers that be glassed it, they went from the cabin side right around the hull to the other cabin side and tied into the keel. its of brick outhouse strength now. multihulls beware.

 

edit. another thing to add is that if you take the decks back to the frames, paint the underside before you glue them down. fit, draw around frames from underside, mask off where frames are and paint the rest, then glue/screw down.

[Guest]

I've just done my decks and cabintop, and went with 2 pot white to last a bit longer.

I didn't go for the 2 pot antiskid though.

We've been testing the Resene roll on antiskid for about 3 years now on the boat I race on.

Much better grip underfoot than the 2 pot that was on it. Still going strong.

In the 33% off sale I got 10 litres for $100, put three coats on and have enough left over for another.

To recoat it says to give it a washdown and hit it!

[wheels 543]

Also remember there is a stick on or glue down "mat" type material that has a daimond pattern and that can be obtained in a Tan colour that looks kind of teak'ish, along with other colours.

There are pluses and minuses to every product and/or Technique available. Some love the look of sand, i hate the stuff as it traps dirt and when it gets tired, it really looks it and is a right nightmare to get rid of. And that is taken a step further into the hard basket depending on the paint it was added too. Two pot is the hardest to try and remove again. It will last longer the single, but it a nightmare to get off. Single pots can usually be heated and scrapped off or a paint stripper will lift it. The plastic beads are easier to sand off and not so harsh and being a round uniform product, tend not to trap the dirt. You can apply either sprinkled over top of the wet paint or mixed in a rolled on.

Burnsco sell the stipple effect type roll on paint. Resene have their own product and I nternational have a sand in the paint type mix.

Guthrie Bowron sell the Dektred which is a rubberised paint with the little pieces of chopped rubber. This is what I use and it is single pot, waterbased and extremely durable. It is specificaly made for wet area's around swimming pools. Repaint is a simple wash and go or an easy sand if you need to.

 

Question to any that have used the stick on patterned type sheet material, how have you found it?? I have thought about fitting it over my cabin top, but been a little unsure if it is a good way to go.

[Guest]

The rubber mat has excellent grip, hard wearing and impact resistant. Eye popingly expensive though, and gets scruffy when it starts to lift off.

I spent a few tough hours pulling a deck load of it off an boat a while ago. Wow it didn't want to let go!

[tuffyluffy 76]

Check this stuff for non-skid. Its dead easy to apply, looks great, easy to repair and you can control the anti-skid texture.

 

http://www.kiwigrip.com/

 

I used it on my boat and couldnt be happier.

[Atom Ant 0]

Looks suspiciously like Don't Slip from Burnsco.

[wheels 543]

Pretty sure you are right there. I have seen those last three apllication pics somewhere before and sure that is in the Burnsco literature.

[Battleship 100]

Yep it's the same stuff, I have used on my previous and current boat and have found it very easy to apply looks good and is hard wearing.

[Atom Ant 0]

Agree, it's been on my boat for over 8 years and although it's not as "non skid" as it originally was, it is easy to put on. Masking takes longer.

[Jon 360]

Fish

When we did our major refit they just routed out the chaulking on the teak then filled and glassed over. This is a heavier option but neither of us are ever going to be light weights anyway.

The decks were then painted in two pot but I opted for the single pot non skid and have been really please with it. Its now 6 years old and we have just had part of the cockpit repaired and it all matches. I went single pot as on a wooden boat you will get movement and I've seen two pot lift off before

By the looks we will get 10 yrs out of the non skid then I will be able to mask it up and repaint myself.

[Bimini Babe 0]

I'd second the opinions about one pot non-skid being better than two-pot top-coat with grit, etc mixed in. Raced on a boat with the two-pot and sand option and after a season of heavy use the foredeck was more slippery than a greased-up jellyfish on a freshly buttered ice-rink. All bowmen (and bowgirls ) were to be considered expendable!

[Fish 0]

Fish

When we did our major refit they just routed out the chaulking on the teak then filled and glassed over. This is a heavier option but neither of us are ever going to be light weights anyway.

The decks were then painted in two pot but I opted for the single pot non skid and have been really please with it. Its now 6 years old and we have just had part of the cockpit repaired and it all matches. I went single pot as on a wooden boat you will get movement and I've seen two pot lift off before

By the looks we will get 10 yrs out of the non skid then I will be able to mask it up and repaint myself.

 

Leaving the teak on is an interesting idea Jon. Did you have any concerns with rot patches you couldn't see? Ours isn't really bad but there is a risk of some rot that we want to address. Might take a while to get it fair again, some parts of the teak have worn down a fair bit.

I have seen a teak deck that has been just painted over with some sort of semi transparent product. Didn't look too bad but I think a proper paint job like Danaide of Pahi actually looks really good.

[Guest]

I guess epoxy sticks to teak OK? INteresting idea I hadn't considered before.

[wheels 543]

Normally you want to wash teak with some Acetone before you epoxy it. But a good sand with ruff grit would more than likely give an OK key to adhere too.

Fish, have you had any leaks?? If you have, then it's likely you have rot somewhere also.

The semi transparent coating may have have been Sikens oil.