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Showing content with the highest reputation on 29/03/21 in all areas

  1. It sure was a great regatta. I was racing in the 40R div, and we had 12 W/L races over 3 days. Solid breeze on the weekend, some extremely close racing, big speeds downhill. Extremely hard work, can hardly move today!
    2 points
  2. Aside from biocides for bug and keeping water out, we don't need to worry about our NZ diesel becoming stale, (or have less of a bang). We have a very good stable product in NZ. It is very close to a pure oil range with little in the way of volatiles to evaporate or oxidise. It is countries overseas useing the crap fuels that need to worry about it going stale. Many of the stabilizers and antismoking additives were made for those markets and you can easily spot the vehicles running on the cheap garbage, because the smoke from the stacks is horrific. A fuel additive could give anywhere from 10
    1 point
  3. "Jackstays shall have a minimum strength of 2000kg. Webbing that lies flat is recommended." https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/resources/yachting-new-zealand-safety-regulations-2021-24 I would use dyneema, webbing doesn't seem to last to well. OSR is a bit more explicit, technically you are required to meet this standard too, YNZ seem a bit lost on this though. "have a breaking strength of 2040 kg (4500#) and be uncoated and nonsleeved stainless steel 1 x 19 wire of minimum diameter 5 mm (3/16”),webbing or HMPE rope" https://www.sailing.org/documents/offshorespecialregs/i
    1 point
  4. Thanks KM & Fogg. I'll go with the nickel plated and the lashing
    1 point
  5. This stuff, or similar. If you think the diesel is going stale, you can either empty the tank and store the removed diesel, adding it back in to fresh fuel at, say, 1:4 ratio (1 part old to 4 parts new). This assumes that you would go through that amount in six months or so. If you have a big fixed tank and barely use it, you might consider emptying the main tank and fitting a small tote tank with a changeover valve between the main and the tote on the fuel line to the pump. That way, your diesel is always reasonably fresh when you are not using the engine a lot (winter race series
    1 point
  6. This stuff (been using it for 2-3 yrs). It killed off an early sign of bug in my previous boat after using a shock dose of 1L into a 130L diesel tank. Which saved me a lot of hassle. Thereafter 100ml each refill. Have continued using it in my new boat.
    1 point
  7. I put in shock dose of 1L into my 250L tank at start of season. Thereafter 100ml every time I refuel as a maintenance dose. So far so good.
    1 point
  8. My thoughts are with you. Month or so back I lost oil pressure dramatically and ended up siphoning around 4 litres of oil out of the Engine tray.... after I had added more. Luckily found that the external oil supply line to the cylinder head had cracked, so was an easy fix in the end, but had envisioned pulling the motor out. Good luck to you
    1 point
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