Plato

I figured that the sideways displacement and resultant compression of the Ex-cel worked better than ploughing up everything to sit on top of the anchor. Once you have a load on top, jammed in under the roll bar, the bugger won't set if the wind or tide shifts.

Thank you so much for your reasoned reply - Much appreciated And thanks for the link to the topic which I missed.

This is a bit of a 'newish' field Electric outboards have been around for a long time, but only fairly recently as trolling motors and ancillary power for small dinghies and row boats. The little ones are reasonably inexpensive but start getting up in price when 24v or 36v are required. Some of the top of the range ones seem eye watering expensive when viewing against performance. I'm looking at fitting one to a 14' row / sail boat weighing around 80kgs. With say 2 adults and 2 little ones with gear, I would expect an all up weight of about 450kgs. The alternative is buying

Could you set a symmetrical the same way as the MPS on the Davidson above? What are the fundamentals for flying a symmetrical as a 'tacker' I don't want to scare the crew (First mate) with all the pole work and don't want to buy a new asymmetrical. The two scenarios. A tacker which is fundamentally flawed and therefore a bit of a b*#ch, and a new asymmetrical that will be used once. I am planning to try the 'tacker' on a still summer's day with a Second mate. Just wondering what to watch out for?

Here is a very sad account of Covid on board.

Coastguard says it will be below 15kts? What's the panic?

Be aware that chop tends to shorten the scope s the bow lifts and falls. Plenty of scope in stronger winds, and watch those tide ranges!!

Apologies for the triple posting error - Don't know what happened there or how to undo?!?

Can any one advise on a long standing debate..... Antifouling of the bottom I think I have covered (or at least think I know what I will be doing this time round) The saildrive and prop is a different story. I have sent down a camera and Propspeed all looks to be in pretty good shape apart from some scraping off of the critters. I am not keen to sand off back to bare metal, and then replace the Propspeed at not inconsiderable cost. What are the alternatives? Paint with Trilux 33 or Pettit which are designed for Aluminium parts? Any alternative thoughts??

Hi Lateral In your circuit, where is the start bettery? Or is it the reserve bank(125ah) in the bottom right corner?

Thanks everyone for your input. I will need to quietly sit down and synthesise all the points made, and workout an upgrade that will provide a safer and more efficient installation. The big take away, no matter what else I do, is to fit some fuses!

Hi Beccara I'm moored at Westhaven. (This is getting really confusing)

Thanks Matt M, So it seems like the alternator is incorrectly connected - and I will check more carefully. In this circuit, should the alternator be connected to the battery side of the switch, or the other (lets say functional) side of the switches? But yes - Its not right

Hi, I must admit to electrikery not being my strongest subject Recently I replaced the House battery with a larger one (85 to 105ah) I carefully photographed all the wires, tied the common ones together, and then connected the new battery exactly the same way as the old one. Only trouble now is that the new one won't charge as it did in the old installation. I can get the new house battery to charge if I connect it in parallel with the starter battery (jump lead to +ve posts) I have two independent battery switches and can't link in parallel in case of an emergency (I have jump cables

The removal has begun! Its costing bucket loads - Please consider a small donation to the Give-A-Litte page above DSC00493.jpg DSC00486.jpg DSC00487.jpg DSC00488.jpg DSC00489.jpg DSC00491.jpg