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Guest

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Everything posted by Guest

  1. If there is any doubt in your mind of its current structural integrity I would glue in solid wood floors, centres at official Twister plans dimensions, with arrased edges and coved floor/hull junction to ease transitions. . Feather floor ends to hull so as not to create stress riser. Glass over floor side to side in one piece glass, overlap the ends to hull. Carefull to not entrap air. Say, 440gm db @+-45° and 220gm Uni @0° (parallel to floor.) min 4layers, staggering edges. Smallest last. Peelply. Don't use too heavier glass as wont go over floor easily. Vacuum will do a nice job. Cove and
  2. Did you inadvertently have the strike tab pressed? Somehow seems to detract from cxredibility of statement....haha. Curious to others who have experienced this with top down?
  3. My structural floor grid. (covered in peelply)
  4. As Frank inferred; The hull thickness and designed floor structural grid work in concert with the type of keel fixing. From a quick google; yours is GRP then it has an ENCAPSULATED keel. Wood Twisters would have decent floors and keel bolts. Holman must have decided to beef (hull thickness) the turn of bilge to keel to the point little was needed ITO floors. That was/were the "baffles" you removed. Tying the two sides of the keel faces would be nice, and you need support for sole so have at it using Psyche's ply saturation and tabbing. Hopefully you are using epoxy. 45/45
  5. Didn’t read your post thoroughly. As long as your glass layup conforms to the wood plus glass specification in terms of crossection you will be fine. But solid wood in that configuration will be stiffer for same dimension . (With the grain athwartship.)
  6. Because for a specific scantling (thickness) you would require approximately twice the thickness of ply to achieve the same stiffness. Comparable timber of course. All to do with +_90degree orientation of grain. This is only when the strength is in the floor, not in the composite, (timber and encapsulating laminate) where the timber is a non-compressible spacer. I have David Gerrs “Elements of boat strength” if you care to borrow it. I redid my athwartship floors when I replanked my boat. 120x75 virgin old growth Kauri, 1/4 sawn to vertical face. Tom McNaughtons scantlings. (Com
  7. Cheers! And what weight fabric and wind speed does it cover? Obviously less as wind moves forward, but something like 5-15knts, 160-70 true? In a gust as boat speeds up, and apparent moves forward things would heat up quickly, I guess as wind more on beam? Saturday would have been fun, with odd gust to 20.
  8. Two votes for a blade. That will save me some! Dollars and distance.
  9. Yep, seriously considering MPS or Gennaker. Don't really understand the difference. Then there's A1.5's etc I'm keen on free luff to windward type, but that maybe getting too specialised. What sort of wind range HT? Also weight and material? Do you use with a prod? Thanks!
  10. Curious to know of fill the gap sail or general purpose, code sail, Ax, gennaker, etc you have bought, and how much you use it?
  11. A technicality. Buck localism and see where that gets you. I guess your aversion to caulapa and degradation of our ocean is, skin deep? Your personal autonomy is more important. I do support your thinking on the relevance of pleasure boat anchoring anchoring as a transmission vector now horse has bolted.
  12. Looking forward to someone learned chiming in too, perhaps with factor x foot. Our outboard end of Al/wood end pole exploded in Colville channel with #2 which is a lapper. #1 needs a longer pole of course. Sleeved with glass and rescrewed albeit a bit shorter now. Funny how things become amazing clear after the event, especially recovery tactics, under too much canvas.
  13. So, how long do these surveys last? Or is it just because of an Insurance co change?
  14. Grand old log 5knota all the usual trimmings, oozes past adventure and old world charm, and with new fangled colour cordinated isolating switches! Um, do they make em half red and half black for the ultimate single throw DP? Guaranteed to solve your loops.
  15. Are we talking about fuses or isolation switches?
  16. Double pole single throw, switch that functions as name implies. After toing and froing I decided three +ve switches on the three batteries in two banks, and two -ve automatic voltage/current/temperature sensitive switches on the LiFePO4 right next to the -ve post courtesy of bms’s was enough isolation for me and I considered it done. The start battery -ve post could do with one to be consistent but seeing as cars are permanently wired to starter motor without any isolation switch and have multiple earth paths I don’t think I can be bothered. Lithium is another level or two of paranoia t
  17. But then shutting the motor off gives us a rush of feel goods. Just how do you put a dollar value on that? Motoring is like the dentist, or a prostate check; one of those unpleasant necessities. If you want to reach certain point in a certain time, you need to tolerate using your motor. Very occasionally I love my motor and am thankful for its unceasing reliability but mostly I’d prefer it to be barely seen and definitely not heard. Charging my batteries has nothing to do with the smelly, noisy motor, it’s the alternator. Quiet, powerful, and very humble. You didn’t know that? Conversely
  18. Changed my galv bolts out for 2205 ss in 2010. A couple of the galv were wasted.
  19. Second that. Required grid survey, but no gas cert , only a sniffer which I already had. Never got around to the gas solenoidinstall. Guess it somewhat universal, the differing standards that are applied. Just as long as the survey is what you've got and the Insurance co accepts it you have got to be covered.
  20. Exactly what is the wording on Aus/Nz std? Meaning HV/LW audible warning at a cellular level Or// at a battery level? Not so subtle electrical diff. Obviously cellular is better imo. Pretty easy to add a BMV712 and get an audible warning. Also utilise mid point take off. And if you dont like the 712 volume (low) use the relay with a louder one. Or, the offender at a cellar level is easily identified & monitored with a voltage sensitive configurable relay to a piezo. $20. Same cell wins the race in both batteries every time, not by much. But its really consistent thanks to Mr Ohm
  21. Sorry all gone. Six went in matter of hours
  22. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/caravans-motorhomes/parts-accessories/solar-panels-accessories/listing/4555193902 $225
  23. The DC-DC (30A?) is from FLA start battery to LiFePo4 right? What controls that kicking in? I have a victron DC-DC to do opposite as Li is charged from alternator at this stage and also have used it as I charge my Li at 14.2V via Argofet, which seems to keep the start battery up. Nice little induction hob!
  24. With induction cook top I guess you could run the motor when in use to alleviate loss to battery. Still need 75m^2 to inverter tho. 2Kw for 15min is 40ish Ah, correct? Not allowing for invertor losses, and @12.8V When is the target extinction date for LPG?
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