LE Bb

We have a mainsail here off a tennant trimaran, it's slightly higher in the hoist but very similar on the foot. I should be seeing the owner in the next couple of weeks and coud ask if he still wants it. Try sailing with the rudders up 200mm then 400m and see if it gets better or worse. the rudders can be modifyed but you will need a baseline...

Weed on keel for over a day this leg, and in last leg nigle banged his head pretty bad, and has been struggling this leg. But all credit to the entertiner sailied a faultless two legs and went the best ways. and start me up only a few boatlenghts behing for leg two. from personal experince when it's light and the tide is against you through the Channel Is area you get left behing very quickly

Durepox is the best adheiring paints we have ever used, kind of a one hit wonder. The only down fall is antifouling doesn't like sticking to it, but primercon fixes that. Yes it's a urethane, so it doesn't yellow like epoxy primers.

Durepox with accelerator goes pretty hard and durable, gelcoat or flowcoats are a pain in the arse. you could also try duratec from ATL

mek ... it may take awhile

forgot to reply yesterday. went through at 1550 yesterday and had 3.5mts at shallowest.

Fyi in the video above the heating is the key. the alloy tube expands with the heat, as it cools it srinks back again more than the carbon. doesn't work on a pvc mandrel

ptfe film ( teflon ) is whats used now ... not cheap but it works The old way was to wrap mylar film around the tube, then tape another one over that but independant so it would slide off. for what your trying to do you i would suggest that you glass around the tube but place somthing like holey plastic between the join. this will allow you to peel it of then glue it back together. See pic Green = tube , Black carbon, Red holey plastic

broken battern cars - you can see it in the start photos. main leech ripping .... hopefully all fixed

I drew some up for a mate a few years back, foils have got a bit better since then. Structure hasn't really changed much. Pm me if you want to know more

i'm here

google fosters nz homer elbow catch

buy a blow up island for the sunbather

yup neilm same test artical zero's around 30 squares

Gary Lambert says he designed them in 1982, and started building the first one ( now Rocky ). the hull moulds were taken off this first hull befre it was turned over I have a copy of the original boat test which was october 1983. original specs 7.9 loa 2.87 boa 1180 displ. Note production boats are 7.915 and hull beam without gunnal flange is 2.765. Average dry weight is 1400kg without crew. original keel was like a young 88 or j24. Mk2 keel was a parallel fin steel fin with fairings and "L" bulb between 380 and 310kg draft drawn for that was 1.85 but most went close to 2.2. We have a n

see pic, instructions pretty generic

see where circles are to get the jist of where im questioning

so what we can see in your photo was just floor lands ?

Wasn't much holding them in. Whats your intentions with the yacht? eg coastal or offshore What were the original floors made from ? hard to tell scale but looked about 40mm thick

Our 3 go to's are okoume, yellow cedar, and iroko. When you say structural floors can you give and example, not a place for ply in my mind.

Our last custom one off

The very beginings of the last one we did, well if we could upload the pics

paint just polished, keel, new internals/strurcture main bulkhead to companionway, rig reconfiguration - spreader angles, bottom panel strenghtened and chicken stays dropped, chainplates moved outboard

we got plenty of scraps