CarpeDiem

I need to build a Gas Locker for Carpe Diem. I had planned to build a sealed locker with a drain to outside and locate this inside another locker which ultimately drains to the bilge. The alternative is hang the gas bottle off a transom step or cut a hole in the side of the cockpit - neither ideas I like. It occurs to me that if there is a gas leak in the locker and the alarm starts going off, one will need to open the sealed locker to investigate, this could potentially result in gas flowing into the bilges. I am wondering if anyone knows if having a draining locker inside a n

My Vang has started leaking lubricant. Upon further inspection it looks like the strut is intact and it's the lubricant on the slider that's turned to a thick gunk dust. I am guessing that this is just old grease that has reached its use by date and had enough of the sun. Can I just use winch grease on this? Or do I need something special? Thanks

Hi all, Anyone got any ideas on some good off the shelf sturdy sock mouths? I am thinking something like an oval bucket, or a giant road cone that can be cut down. Have had a look around the likes of Mitre10 and Plastic Box but have not seen anything suitable. Effectively I am looking for some mass produced common product that can be modified, rather than buying a purpose built molded/fabricated sock mouth. Thanks

This is the bit I don't get, if the AC shore earth is only connected to the engine (along with the DC earth) then is the small amount of water that might be left in the impeller pump sufficient to earth the boat to the water? My impeller pump just happens to be below the water line, I guess others might not be, thus no connection to the water at all? I suppose if there is enough vacuum that the heat exchanger might stay connected giving more surface area, but my maintenance has shown that the rubber pipe from the heat exchanger to the impellor is empty at the water line. If this conne

There is probably nothing wrong with the rest of the pole. Any engineering shop will be able to clean this up and reattach the pole end if they want the business, and you don't mind a shorter pole. This happened to me too, the pole end insulation wasn't done right and salt water + metals of different types = galvanic corrosion. (Although we didn't get to the actual point of breaking - I hope it was the clew end?) I got a new carbon fiber pole made up, these guys did the whole thing end to end including painting: http://www.c-tech.co.nz/shop/Our+Products/C-T+Carbon+tube.html

Sorry for asking again but I am confused by the definition of grounded. Does grounded mean connected to the water, or is it considered grounded if it is connected to the dc negative? My engine is only going to be grounded to the water via the small amount of water left in impeller housing. Would that be considered "grounded"?

Doesn't this also need to be connected to the water via some plate of a specific size? Hence another hole in the boat? Would an inspector actually check that's it's connected to the water with a test?

So reading that link and this section: Does that mean that if it's a new eWOF on an old boat (pre 1/4/2010) that it doesn't need an earth? Or does it mean that the boat had to have a eWOF prior to 1/4/2010 without an earth? I have heard the specs say that the shore power negative has to be connected to the boat DC negative, but given this isn't earthed to the water it seems to not meet this requirement...

I need to go down this journey too. Any advice on the storage plate options? E.g., the IsoTherm ASU units? Instead of the evaporator plates? I currently have one house battery and no solar, I have been told to get into the electric fridge space I need to add a second battery and solar. So I have been putting the inevitable off. Removing the brine and filling it with expanding foam is a good idea, I always thought it was advantageous to keep the brine as a cold storage plate, now I see the light. Also if I remove the brine then I can drill through the fridge to get access for a a

Can you plug it into shore power to get the brine chilled in advance? Or leave it on with solar? Our engine driven one died a while ago and I put a new d1-30 in which had no way of attaching the compressor. So I am looking at doing the same as you. What we do on the long weekends is throw 1kg of dry ice in the bottom. The fridge is still cold 3 days later. And we only put already chilled stuff in the fridge. That wouldn't happen if we replaced the brine with foam. So my understanding is if you could get the brine precooled you'd have better results. This might be flawed for long tr

These little lugs (x4) under the boom for the lazy jacks were installed about 4 years ago. I've noticed not insignificant equal corrosion at all four points. There are several other stainless fixtures on the mast and boom that have existed longer and don't show any where near the same amount of corrosion. There is no corrosion inside the boom. I can't tell if the rivets are stainless or aluminium. I have drilled them off and will reattach them with aluminium rivets and will put an insulating washer between them. But the stainless will still be 'connected' via the rivet. So wi

CD is out. Coming home with beginners ain't gonna be pleasant for them and I might want some to come back! Thanks for organising! See you all at the party.

How much gas does it use?

I must be doing something blatently obvious wrong - but I can't find where to enter? No links in this thread, nothing on the news page, can't see it on the Richmond site... Help... Ignore me, I found it under the "More" drop down menu... I won't say it was obvious

Will an AC12 benefit from the Precision 9?

Any entity who now sells small goods under $1000 into NZ needs to collect GST at source. (Some goods are exempt from GST eg fine metals. So if the entity only sells fine metals they are exempt from registering). If you're goods are over $1000 then you can choose not to register and nzcs will use the current process to collect duty and gst. The $60 is what the rules were until Dec 1st. That's now gone. NZPost YouShop will now charge and collect GST on your shipment. Shippers are required to fill in paperwork which verifies that the GST has been collected at source. I guess that pa

I like this idea. Thanks.

No. We have the halyard and the tylaska shackle but have been told the crane needs a modification.

Thanks!

Would like to do some single handed sailing but not sure how to hoist the main... AP into the wind is a no brainer and I generally do that two handed. Winch and clutch is on the cabin top. Sail is to heavy to hand haul it from the cock pit through the clutch. Winching it from the cock pit... while I am ok with that for shaking out a reef when it needs to be done .. It seems mighty exhausting for something I want to be a pleasant experience. Electric winch is unbelievably expensive (I could buy a new main) Which leaves pulling it up from the base of the mast... Thought

Possibly not relevant to your situation but interesting... Have some friends that 'half' immigrated here (she is kiwi born, he is brit and now nz citizen as well). They didn't have to pay duty or gst by somehow leaving the boat registered in the UK and in his name. Don't really understand how that works but apparently it's all legit and very common...

Hi boat tech people, Should I be able to see Heel angle from an RC42 compass on the NMEA network? I can't find it anywhere in the settings... hoping it's a different name? Solution is Triton2, AC12, Zeus2, RC42 Thanks

On the B&G Zeus... On chart view, when you select a waypoint, (or anything else) a little speech bubble pops up with the name of the thing you selected, the name only sticks around for a couple of seconds and if you touch anywhere else it disappears. When you touch the speech bubble a screen appears giving you the details of the item you selected. At the bottom is a "goto" button. (on my b&g the goto is slightly obscured by a predictwind auto route overlay, but the goto button is still there). Now if that doesn't work, long press the screen for a couple of seconds

By sleeve do you mean outer cover? Then enough to be able to human handle it. I leave the cover on all the way to the exit point in the mast. That allows good capture/holding power by a crew member or application of rolling hitch or other jammer. Also gives some abrasion protection. If you're always winching it and never intend to hand haul it, then you only need enough for the clutch to grab. I would also put a 30cm dyneema cover at each reefing point. At the clutch end make the bury 400mm (50x diameter). (the reefing points don't matter as much).

100% certain, the tube is uninterrupted from hull to deck. So what's the process? There's obviously a big hexagonal thing at the top, infact apart from the four screws in the photo there is nothing else... What stops the rudder hitting the mud if I undo that nut? Does the rudder have to be supported first?