Jump to content

DIY repainting


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, harrytom said:

Almost at the painting stage, what type of roller did you use? some foam rollers give that orange peel look, should i tip off??

 

I used 4mm mohair, some brands call them wool velour. If you get your thinning rates right (which differs with temp and humidity) you shouldn't need to tip off as the paint will flow and stipple will pull back as it dries. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Cheap Transport said:

I used 4mm mohair, some brands call them wool velour. If you get your thinning rates right (which differs with temp and humidity) you shouldn't need to tip off as the paint will flow and stipple will pull back as it dries. 

Thank you  . 2 coats hoping will efficient

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, Building on this, I've just finished the decks and structure - now the whole boat has been painted (outside) bottom of keel to top of mast. Again roll and tip, then Kiwigrip over the molded glass non skid. Took off "most" of the deck gear to do it... New Teak timber work as well, some not re-installed yet.

20231114_200816.jpg

  • Upvote 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, Island Time said:

Well, Building on this, I've just finished the decks and structure - now the whole boat has been painted (outside) bottom of keel to top of mast. Again roll and tip, then Kiwigrip over the molded glass non skid. Took off "most" of the deck gear to do it... New Teak timber work as well, some not re-installed yet.

20231114_200816.jpg

Looks very nice . Can you adjust  the traveller from the Nav area ? 

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm curious as to why you cant cut and polish LPU's, I saw a DIY re-spray recently with a flawless finish, achieved by cutting and polishing. The owner said It was an automotive 2 part (2K ?)  lacquer but not a marine product as such. Do we have any paint experts who can comment on the difference ? If you cant cut n polish a marine LPU then presumably the chemistry is different to automotive 2K PU. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

There's 2 kinds of LPU, acrylic and polyester, one can be polished and one cant. This is from memory so google it, but polyester is the higher gloss, longer lasting and harder paint that shouldn't  be cut and polished whereas acrylic LPU's are softer more easily repairable (and cheaper) and can be cut and polished. Read the TDS to see what kind youre buying. 

Both types are extremely good but the polyester is the premium product and for most DIY'ers acrylics are a better option. On a scale of one to ten, oil paints being a one, single pot  polyurethanes are a 4, and two part LPU's are 10

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Frank said:

I'm curious as to why you cant cut and polish LPU's, I saw a DIY re-spray recently with a flawless finish, achieved by cutting and polishing. The owner said It was an automotive 2 part (2K ?)  lacquer but not a marine product as such. Do we have any paint experts who can comment on the difference ? If you cant cut n polish a marine LPU then presumably the chemistry is different to automotive 2K PU. 

Polyester LPUs cure with a separation. A very thin layer sets up at the top with the clear solids protecting the pigment underneath. 

It's like a built-in clearcoat. 

If you need to touch it up you have to take the whole panel back. It's impossible to just do a section.   If you want to buff a section, you'll just rip off the top gloss layer. 

Carpe Diem is painted with a metallic fleck 2k polyester lpu used on cars. It's absolutely the worst paint ever for a boat. A fender rubs through the top coat it's screwed, a dinghy comes up along side, screwed again.  Coastguard comes along side to uplift a injured crew member, screwed again!  Wish I knew what I know now when the boat was painted... 

Look at silver paint on the bow in this photo... https://livesaildie.photoshelter.com/image?&_bqG=48&_bqH=eJwzyDIqKE71CQiOcK7KSXX1j0rM9Q4uiUr2cyq2MjQ1tjI0MABhIOkZ7xLsbBuZWJJarAZmxzv6udiWANmhwa5B8Z4utqEgddmh8SbF5r7F7iGhavGOziG2xamJRckZAIfEH9M-&GI_ID=

The anchor had fallen off the bow roller putting a scratch in the hull. That was done professionally by the paint team at pier 21 who also painted the whole boat in the shed.  At the time it didn't look that bad, you could see they had repainted it but as the paint cured over the next month it set up like that.   You can also see a much bigger repair amidships at the waterline, that was a touch up that was required after rubbing for too long on the Westhaven fuel dock fenders... I hate that paint :)

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, K4309 said:

For the uneducated but someone who sees repainting their cabin top in the near future, what are LPU's?

Any brand names / where to procure them?

Linear PolyUrethane, if you go to a marine shop their garden variety 2 pot top coats are acrylic LPU's, if you want the ultimate superyacht look get Awlgrip which is polyester based.

Resene light industrial do a range of LPU's which are just fine for marine use like Uracryl, cheaper too. All the major paint companies make them for industrial use as they are so superior to any other paint in certain applications.  They were originally developed for aircraft which need paint that sticks, lasts and doesnt peel off at high speed!

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

So who has older applications of Kiwi grip... say 3 years or more.

How is it standing up to wear and tear, what are the opinions on the durability and behavior underfoot, have you ever touched it up and would you use it again?

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Black Panther said:

Mine is 3 yrs old, ready to do it again.  Much easier this time as the substrate is fine. 2 days tops.

Knowing what you know now, are you glad you used Kiwigrip three years ago?

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Priscilla II said:

Thinking about using KiwiGrip on the Morby sole is it possible to refine the finish ie less stipple? 

Depends on how much pressure you put on roller. Have a play first. It's good stuff the grip.had it on cockpit floor now 2 yrs holding up well.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Priscilla II said:

Thinking about using KiwiGrip on the Morby sole is it possible to refine the finish ie less stipple? 

Yes, I will go coarser next time. Do this by allowing a bit more time after application before hitting with the roller,  then play with the pressure on the roller as above. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...