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Abel Seaman

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Everything posted by Abel Seaman

  1. 10 years ago i bought a $100 fishfinder with transom mount transducer for my glass over ply trailer yacht. As a trial, i bedded the transducer in a wadge of vaseline against the inside of the hull. I was careful to extract a lump of vaseline from the jar with no bubbles in it. It worked so well, that it is still there and still working, and as opposed to epoxy, i can remove it and replace it if i need to with no drama. I built an open top open bottom box to put around it so it doesnt get knocked, but honestly i havent touched the transducer since i installed it 10 years ago! Whe
  2. Combination chandler and hardware store in Greece. They had everything you could imagine in a space the size of a living room. Your challenge, should you choose to accept is to find what you want.
  3. I built the trailer for my 26 ft trailer yacht from 125x 65 channel iron for 2 reasons: 1 the steel didn't cost me anything. 2 I had it shot blasted and zinc sprayed with the arc spray process. There is no dip bath in nelson so saved a trip to Christchurch too. Comparable cost. I used to get stuff shot blasted and zinc sprayed for industrial outdoor steel work so i had practical experience with it. Its a great technique as long as you have open sections like channels. Done right its as good as dipping, but probably not for chain. Thing is it would also be great for touch up
  4. Both give optimistic fuel use/heat output. The maths ain't difficult: Lower calorific value of diesel is about 36.5 Mj/litre. 1 watt = 1 joule/second so for heat from 1 litre per hour of diesel =36500000 joules /3600 seconds = 10 kw Claiming 5 kw for 0.1 litre/hr consumption is a bit of a stretch!
  5. Shower domes work, but there are cheaper options: I bought a sheet of perspex and made one using a wooden former and using hot air guns. Cost of perspex is not much, but it was suprisingly difficult to get enough heat even with two x 2 kw hot air guns. So for the upstairs shower, i just glued some hardwood battens around the shower cubicle at the same height as the door frame and have a flat sheet of 3 mm perspex sitting on door frame and battens. No complaints about claustrophobia from me or my wife. It works. Can have a shower and the unheated mirror doesn't fog up. The perspex
  6. When i firts rigged my new full batten main i thought i had made a tragic mistake: I had to winch it the whole way. A few good squirts of silicone lube later, i could hoist the whole mainsail by hand and just use the winch for final luff tension. Figure out your friction problems and deal to them. Cheers John
  7. I havent seen this stuff for years but it was impressive! https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/epoxy-resin-and-boat-repair/seal-once-sealant-cartridge Salesman applied a bead of sealant to a piece of polished stainless steel (that i gave to him from our stocks) while it was under a running cold water tap! we used it in wet industrial applications with good results. No relationship at all...
  8. I have used it over lots of my topsides with just a brush. (Areas between non slip patches are two narrow even for a little roller in places!) Get it mixed and thinned right and it flows out nicely. Have also used roller and tipped off. Also good. Well better than toplac for example. I painted under my heads with it and as expected gave a good high gloss easy clean finish. The fumes were too much even with ventilation. If using interior get the right respirator!
  9. I bought one of these in Australia last week. Just back from Afternoon around the buoys racing where i wore it for the first time. Its been a brilliant day here and usually my face would be glowing in spite of sunscreen , sunglasses and a wide brim hat. Today my face is cool.... I thought it might be irritating to wear but it wasnt. Didnt interfere with vision nor communication. So i am very pleased. Much interest from other sailors. Some said that they felt a little intimidated when i was bearing down on them with just my eyes showing so that is also good .
  10. Specifically: Altex Epoxy Barrier Undercoat followed by Altex Elite 321 Polyurethane Topcoat. 321 can be brushed or rollera nd tip off for almost perfect finish as long as thinned just right. nb use the right thinners for each product.
  11. I agree threads are a nightmare. As my stepfather used to say: "Everyone likes standards. Thats why we have so many of them!" Actually the BSP standard was adopted into the metric system as ISO 7 and ISO 228. ISO 7 generally relates to what used to be BSPT (British Standard Pipe Taper where a seal is formed on the thread as the male thread is tapered and tightens as you screw it in. ISO 228 relates to BSPP British Standard Pipe Parallel where the seal is not formed on the threads but on an end face gasket. Still has the classic Whitworth thread form too! (I regularly cringe as i watch
  12. Altex advised me that you could apply two pot paints over one pot paints if the one pot was well aged and well prepared and importantly still adhering well! No point trying this over flaking paint! They advised a particular 2 pot epoxy undercoat over the old paint followed by a 2 pot polyurethane. If in doubt test paint a small patch to see if the old paint reacts/softens crinkles with the new. I have had no problems. Talk to Altex, they were helpful.
  13. Maybe i missed something, and i am happy to be corrected, but: I downloaded the YNZ Safety Regulations of Sailing 17-20 to use as a check list for pre season boat preparation. My flare kit is well expired, so i was particularly interested in current requirements. Suprised that parachute flares are no longer needed for a Cat 1 flare kit? Even more suprised that the only requirement for parachute flares is for Trailer Yachts on open water events. Page 76 for category 1- 5 18.7 Distress signals conforming to the current International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (S
  14. Sorry for the delay. There are no gaskets. The two faces of the mating bulkheads pull in flat to each other and there is no leakage i am aware of. Of course with beach landings , wet feet etc there is often a little watr in the bottom. Handy hint: I deliberately put the gunwhales all on the outside of the sides if that makes sense. When you tip dinghy on its side to drain out water, every last drop falls out. cheers
  15. Sorry - not impressed. demonstrates a lack of understanding of basic physics! The ropes to each side of each swing are differnt lengths, so as per Gallileos observations will have different periods. In practice meand that the seat will twist as it goes back and forth. Makes it unpleasant to use even if decorative. To make it functional there should be a rigid extended mount downwards so that fo aech swing the ropes are the same length...
  16. Yes i did use 9 or 10 mm ply for transoms and bulkheads. I did fit a towing eye at the lowest point on outside the forrad transom. For very short hops i have towed using the internally connected painter, but for proper towing have a floating line with a snap shackle that i hook on to the outside eye. Floating rope to minimise chance of prop wrap! I normally pull the dinghy aboard for sailing along the coast in a decent sea breeze, but i have been deliberately towing in higher wind and sea conditions to see how that goes. So far so good. I take everything loose out of the dinghy and remove
  17. Thanks for the kind words, here are some answers; Yes Kaiteriteri. I live not far away. How I did the two halves was to make 2 bulkheads at the forrad side of the main seat /thwart. I used something like matchsticks which were same thickness as my favourite handsaw to space them apart then made the boat as per normal. I did enough on the outside with cable tie stitches to hold it all together then glassed in tape over thickened epoxied fillets on all internal joints. The moment of truth was inserting said handsaw between the double bulkheads and literally cutting my boat in half! The
  18. D5 dinghy I built. Free plans on Internet. I believe i was first to make a nester out of it, though others have since done so. http://bateau2.com/free/D5_free_m.PDF I like it. Its actually a pleasure to row and i dont think anyone ever said that about an inflatable. It fits on the fordeck of my Young 780 so will just about fit anything i guess. It also tows really well and goes well with 3.6 hp motor. Plywood is lighter than fibreglass in this application as the thickness you need for practical stiffness makes it so, although fibreglass is undoubtably stronger thickness for thicknes
  19. Well the simple answer is of course that knots is generally and historically speed through the water, not over the ground. It only became possible to accurately measure speed over the ground with the advent of GPS which was just yesterday in navigational history terms. If the tide is going out and you are restricted to 5 knots coming up the channel, it could take quite a while to get there. There is another example in Mapua. Not much point in a 5 knot speed limit when the outgoing current is 6 knots! Hence the existance of a higher speed transit zone which has a max speed of 15 knots (sp
  20. Hmmm. Any superyacht worthy of the name will have sophisticated electronics and maneuvering capability such that they should be able to program station keeping so that they stay in one position sans anchor. If they program a back and forth path at say 0.1 knot, they are technically underway. Can they charge vessels for being underway in the harbour? Paid lackies will of course keep a 24 hour lookout.
  21. I have a Young 780WB which has a transom but also has a hinged door/gate in one side of the transom. The transom also carries the rudder and the outboard. Don't see either on this pic? I like the gate thing as it makes access from the ground really easy when on the trailer and makes boarding a dinghy easy when afloat. The gate is not overly robust, and I have toyed with removing the gate in favour of open transom but have decided not to for 2 reasons: 1. I often have non sailing family and friends aboard who feel more secure in an apparently closed cockpit. 2. Having it fully open with
  22. OK so far 1 very good response to my original question, thank you Ex TL systems for your signal, your input is appreciated. Maybe keeping the 20 year old OB is a good option. Lots of (noise) about the rules of this forum. I still dont know why i am too untrustworthy to edit my own posts for typo errors but there it is! Meantime, my original serious question stands: Edited and abbreviated: What is the best OB for a Young 780 WB? Opinions please. Thanks John
  23. OK, I give up. I wanted to edit the original post slightly, but there seems to be no way to do this. I have read the help files and they tell me that I have options in my profile, but i have been through every tab and no such option is visible. Help!
  24. My 97 Honda 15 HP outboard on my Young 780 WB is showing its age. What is the best replacement and why? The honda is heavy but quite economical on fuel pushing the boat at 6.8 knots with a high thrust propellor. I like the idea of a 2 stoke 9.x HP Tohatsu which will weigh nearly 15 kg less, but will like the noise and higher fuel consumption. (Note that it is not the cost of fuel that is an issue so much as the need to carry more when starting a cruise. If I doubled the fuel cost it would still be relatively little compared to overall running costs.) As the motor is transom mounted it ne
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