idlerboat

VHF...by a long way (with DSC) . Flares are a useful tool, but are far better used to do close quarters locating. There are just to many variables for flares to be a reliable means of attracting attention. We (Marine rescue ) have done tests close to a very major city and not a single person reported the flares to relevant authorities.... If you haven't let one off before, then contact a rescue organisation and see if you can jump on a training day... They are hot and powerful little beasts and it is very easy to get burnt by them. PLB,s are top of the list of "please help me NOW" equip

If it is getting "to hot" in the first place then something else is wrong.... Rather than allowing it to get to that point and then shut it down, wouldnt it be better to throttle back the load on the alternator ? It should work fine in the engine bays ambient temperature (just like in a fully sound enclosed genset). The diodes should outlast the bearings .

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Mandatory float-free EPIRBs Thursday 26 July 2018 From 1 January 2021, float-free emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs) will be mandatory on certain types of domestic commercial vessels. This change to safety equipment requirements comes after a number of incidents in Australia and internationally where commercial vessels have sunk quickly and the master and crew were not able to deploy their EPIRB in time, resulting in a tragic loss of life. AMSA conducted extensive public consultation about changes to requirements for carrying float-free EPIRBs in 2018. As a result we

You might be closer if you refer to the Autoignition temperature. yep sorry...typing to fast without engaging brain... I meant auto ignition , as in protection in storage from heat ...exposure to a hot wire / exhaust pipe etc... I will try again and say diesel will light up without a spark or similar ignition source at a surprisingly low temperature...in fact lower than petrol. There have been many serious accidents (mostly in commercial marine applications) where diesel has been thought of as "nearly as safe as water"...or not flammable.. It is the reason why it is so heavy

...First on Diesel ignition... Diesel flash point is at a lower temperature than pertrol... Dont be kidded into thinking otherwise... It is a standard exam question for most commercial maritime tickets... Fuel Flash point Autoignition temperature Gasoline (petrol) −43 °C (−45 °F) 280 °C (536 °F) Diesel (2-D) >52 °C (126 °F) 256 °C (493 °F) Jet fuel (A/A-1) >38 °C (100 °F) 210 °C (410 °F) Kerosene >38–72 °C (100–162 °F) 220 °C (428 °F) As previous, the more tank area

....the first lot on cruising vessels have now crossed the 10 year mark... Chafe has turned out to be far less of a problem overal which is why logging companies are using it for ground snigging timber !! ...and the long keeled heavy cruising yacht next to me has spectra / dynema on its caps and D2 as well. The newer fittings are easy to use and you simply back splice the rope. A jacket is usually only put on a section say from the lower spreaders down. Greatly reduced weight and higher strength. I think you will find that its here to stay.

Please be careful with your calcs. I can't say too much at this stage.. I will say understand your swept area ..And that adding a safety margin to a safety margin ruins your engine,s efficiency. Think Seriously about where you want your engine to run. It should be loaded at 3/4 revs... NOT WITH 20% left over.. Do the proper real world maths.. 20% plus 20% manufacturer allowed is nearly half of your top end power !!

I have an Isuzu industrial engine.. No marinisation to worry about. Dry exhaust and keel cooled. 2000 hours so far Cost $ 5k brand new . .. Get rid of all that silly salt water stuff. : )

...my marina bike is a 10 year old ally mountain bike..cost $90 new. Been on the bottom a few times.. Saves heaps of time when working on other boats or going shopping. I "repair" it when necessary with bits from bikes that get chucked out on hard rubbish day. A very trusty steed indeed.. Our folders stay in the shipping container unless we are cruising.

100 magic miles is the bible for the area. Cruising the coral coast is also helpful. Bareboat charters are restricted to an area with the smaller vessels smaller again. (But dont worry you wont see all of this even if you spend three weeks) The outer reefs are out of bounds for bareboats. The anchorages on Whitsunday island can get crowded (30 plus boats) but there is usually lots of options. Bareboats need to chose and be anchored by late afternoon with a radio sked to the respective operators (sometimes twice a day) with the charterers respective decision. This allows the operators to

Have spent months there. Including working what would you like to know.. ...and yes there was a shark attack at sid harbour yesterday...

I always suggest just above the lower spreaders on a twin spreader rig. This seems to be the best compromise of height versus rolling/pitching. Because radar dosnt see over the horizon, its no point having a 24 NM radar 2 metres off the deck. (Unless you only want it for close quarters and weather watching) Much higher and on the average yacht the arc of movement can become to great for good resolution. As above with emissions from newer units. B n G radar using their own brand wifi transmitter will overlay on open CPN...(and you can use the open CPN controls on it.. Its fantastic on a

I have..you just have to be quick, and you only get one go. Dont expect it to just slide in nice....It may, but if it starts to stick then you want to be able to press it in very quickly. Its to expensive to stuff up and is also brittle. Dont forget to carefully measure your bearing housing. It must not taper or you are in trouble. It will either be to lose or it will bind when you try and install it. I also drill and tap a couple of threads to put in recessed alen key grub screws later. A small divot is drilled in the vesonite once installed and the grub screws gently screwed in and loc tig

Nope...do be careful with the press fit as the calculations allow for the tightening of the inner dimensions. (I tend to use the expanding bearing glues, the dimension of which are also on the calculator ). If all is straight and true, then there should be no great extra resistance from the longer bearings. The longer bearings will definitely increase the life span. I have learnt by experience that short bearings have much less life span. I doubled the length of the bearings on my own prop shaft a couple of haul outs ago. As an aside, I have a Jefa Gaiter on my rudder stock rather than

so the heaps I have typed have gone because you cant go back to check.. preci. if definite, unsubscribed and constant over heating...plus (sometimes but not always) bubbles in coolant..then cracked head or head gasket. (Block possible...) Old motor... Volvo...lots of effort to diagnoses ...new head gasket... Do a balance of probability and cost exercise. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I dont like Volvo marine. Its terrible $ versus time. I dont like sail drives. Its b

Hi CH, generally as long as the groove size is as specified, then there is no problem with enough water. Faster vessels (power boast) do need assisted water circulation. If installed with a standard stuffing box (that by virtue drips water when under way under power) enough water will be present. If installed with a PSS type dripless seal or similar, then usually a tube / pipe at the seal is installed that prevents an airlock from happening. If installed with a volvo type seal (a lipseal boot) then attention to burping the air from the seal at relaunch is mandatory (both for the seal an

Vesconite MUST have play..see bearing calculator..the shaft does not sit tight or it will generate heat. It must have water grooves. You need to machine it to their specifications not to bronze or other materials

I use vesconite for both prop and rudder... Held tight with loctite (they make a specific version for this application ) Have installed on lots of boats with no problem. Is very expensive but including machining works out similar to bronze and other solutions. Online bearing calculator is helpful. You can try getting straight from South Africa.

Perhaps it is worth mentioning that waves dont always come in nice straight lines.... ..at 27 knots boat speed even if you are out pacing the predominate sets, it only takes one random double up or cross set to upset everything.....The acceleration goes through the roof and you are now in real danger of pitchpoling/broaching as the down most hull digs in and steering is momentarily lost as the water speed and boat speed match... Its hard to get proper context from videos , ..perhaps the sea state wasnt that bad for what is a reasonably large boat.. I personally would rather slow down tha

.... guys..just dont .. !! You will stuff it up an confuse other people.. The rules and procedures are all there. Go to the appropriate government site. NZ has been one of the best .

The vast majority of people live their adventures through others... History is full of support , financial and otherwise of those who choose to tackle a "great adventure". There are a number of people who are out there sailing in a very comfortable manner and telling their story in exchange for support to do it... As much as I fully support safe practices , I also take my hat off to those rare individuals who reasearch and prepare, then take on tests of human endeavour. . Captain Cook went well into far southern latitudes. The early clippers went far far south...Friends of mine went down in

You may find the free program SAS planet helpful. It is quite user friendly for geo type stuff.. (and dont be put off by the fact it is Russian) It allows you to put multiple mapping overlays in place and switch between them. (Including various Sat earth sets)