CarpeDiem

For our Volvopenta D1-30 it was in documented in multiple places through the installation manual. We ended up making a custom stainless exhaust riser to reduce the siphoning risk because we couldn't get the anti-siphon loop high enough due to the cockpit floor. Most photos/videos I have seen of that Engine have an anti-siphon loop in the intake.

Whangarei or Marsden Cove? Hardstand Directory

The rule is that if you arrive on a recreational small craft, within 12 days of your last port of call, (which for you was Minerva Reef), then you're required to be transferred to a MIQ facility for the minimum period of 14 days. These are the current rules for recreational vessels as I've understood them. So I am not seeing any government overreach in what you've explained. Don't be confused with the rules for commercial ships, which don't have a 12 day rule and must have an approved Covid management plan that includes a ships Doctor.

How did this work out?

We unfortunately need to get a new pole after loosing our old one in yesterday's Gold Cup race. Why do people put their spinnaker poles in bags when not in use? Is this for sun protection in lieu of painting a carbon fibre pole? The pole we lost was made by C-Tech and came painted gloss white. The painting made up 1/3rd of the purchase price, so I was considering getting this one unpainted to save some coin. Or am I missing the fact that a new pole would require some kind of finish anyway? Thanks

The only true benefit is a weight/space saving. Every battery has a special/optimal charging regime so this is kind of moot. It's just that your very used to your current charging regime and don't even see it as a regime any more. Lots of factors to consider. In a nutshell, if you have enough power and charging to meet your needs then why change? If you want to add more power reserves then lithium might be a cost effective way to do this over the long term. There are lots of benefits, but if they are worth it to you is always going to be a personal choice. For us it's a

If they are new, then they will be LiFeYPO4 - lithium iron yttrium phosphate - a very safe battery from a reputable manufacturer.

No, different chemistry. The hoverboards and the Samsung batteries, (and the batteries in the fatal battery glider story, mentioned above), were Lithium Polymer batteries or more correctly lithium-ion polymer (abbreviated as LIP, LiPo, Li-poly, lithium-poly and otherways) - the hoverboard chemistry was specifically LiCoO2 - Samsung was probably the same chemistry as are most small electronics. Lithium Polymer is, (generally), no good on boat cause the nominal voltage is too high (3.6v - 3.9v depending on chemistry) and all of our electronics is designed to run at 12/24/48v and LiPo doesn

Yes, it would be a case of that. At the end of the day if you want to use a Marina you have to play by the Marinas rules. And that might mean producing some documentation. They also require proof of insurance and an eWof (if you want to plug in). They probably have other rules about the showers and the toilets too... But as I said, it doesn't have to be done professionally, if you want to do it yourself just follow the rules and be prepared to be held accountable if you don't follow the rules. As evidence, the person cleaning the boat needs to write a declaration that the boat ha

Timely. I just went through this yesterday for Opua marina for BOI race week. In summer we have a private clean of the hull with scuba every 2-3 weeks - so no receipt - in winter we use the floating dock. Our Antifoul will be 6.5 months old when we get to Opua... The Marinas follow a self-imposed 6/1 rule - anitfoul must be less than 6 months old (with invoice) or you must have documented proof of a clean within 1 month. (This can simply be a receipt from a haulout facility, a commercial diver). The law is a bit different - the Management plan says - you must be antifouled within

Perhaps portable 12volt unit. Engle do a great unit with lockdown feet that can be secured in place easily and quickly. They also do insulated bags to save battery on those longer races. Our engine driven fridge has also died - the cost to replace it is astronomical cause of the woodwork - but if I ever did replace it properly - I would be with an Ozefridge and custom cabinet. So I am also seriously considering the less expensive Chainsaw/Portable approach.

Wow, nice boat - where is this? This will work, up above I said: Boats that don't have a means of stopping [the furler spinning], it's a question of when, not if, ... I was not trying to imply that a 2:1 was the only way of stopping the spinning.. What they are relying on here is one of two things, and it's difficult to tell from your photo angles which, but I am guessing that the 2:1 shackle is at 90deg to the furling line? If so then the eye splice pulls the soft shackle through the low friction ring, the soft shackle then contacts the low friction ring at two points

Answered in tech discussion

I was asked over in the For Sale section: Curious to hear your comments on the noticed real world differences between the Precision 9 and the RC42N 2 races now. For Wednesday night racing, flat, round the boys, Auckland Harbour. There was zero difference in the performance of the compass. For the Akarana 350 when taking the rum line from Channel Is to the poor night's we had 2+m seas on the beam while going past the various Great Barrier headlands. These were breaking and sets of 3 big ones were coming in every 10 mins. In this instance the difference was chalk and c

Also, as I missed your original question... A suggestion.. Lash a low friction ring to that stainless fitting at the end of the prod. Then option a Put an eye splice in your line and cow hitch this to the prod. After you have set it all up, cranked this on and let the cow hitch settle, stitch it so it cannot open up. Warning, this creates a risk that your prod could get crushed, over to you to work out if that is likely based on loads. Opton b if worried about pole crush. Put a small eye splice in the end. Lash a line around the prod through the eye spli

Can you cut the plug off and install a new nmea plug at the bus end? Failing that, then we use a "solder splice", (Google it, it's a thing), and for backup we cover that with glue heat shrink. Time consuming and you need to strip back more wire to get the glue heat shrink away from the heat that's generated when solder splicing. I thought the CAN-BUS cabling was twisted pair? You might get signal degradation if that's the case...

Mitre 10 Mega have a selection in the bolts and nuts section. Para rubber has a more comprehensive selection.

Yes. Multiple different boats more times than I wish to remember. Boats that don't have a means of stopping it, it's a question of when, not if, it will become a cluster at the worst possible moment. The way it stops spinning without this, is relying on tension in each side of the continuous furling line and to a smaller extent, 'rope-memory', in the tack line. Tension is usually achieved by taking the furling line aft to a bungied block. I have seen that bungie get released and because the luff torsion rope was still loaded with torque the furling line took 10+ wraps around the

Was that sarcasm? I found it remarkably simple. You can write as much or as little as you like or just choose from the drop downs in the survey. Have your say people...

That's pretty bad of them, it sends the wrong message. They should be promoting that this unit is old technology, that there are much better solutions AND that a certified battery change will cost the same as a new and better unit. FYI, the MT403 doesn't have a GNSS (aka GPS) receiver. Also, a large number of MT403's were recalled due to a design fault. If you're not going off shore, or need Cat 1/2 then you might consider a PLB instead of a EPIRB. All of our crew have PLBs in their life jackets. We don't have a boat EPIRB.

That went to Australia. Renamed Easy Tiger III. https://www.sail-world.com/NZ/Easy-Tiger-III-joins-Melges-32-fleet/-106529?source=google

We have a one of the original VP calorifiers for fresh hot water from back in the day that Volvo sold/made them When we upgraded the engine from the raw water cooled 2003 engine to the D1-30 we didn't reconnect the calorifier due to the fact that we didn't want to start pumping the coolant through pipes that were contaminated with salt water. What's peoples views on the possibility of flushing the heat exchanger, maybe with salt-away and heaps of fresh and starting using it again on the d1-30? Or should we just be looking at replacing it so as not to risk harming the engine in

5 years old. Working perfectly. Nmea 2000. Upgraded to a Precision 9 and have decided not to keep both on the network. Pickup Westhaven or Takapuna. Will advertise on Trademe next week.

Harken has trysail switch tracks. Which, as the name suggests, switches two lower tracks onto one main mast track.

I have seen Parrel Beads around the mast. Of the very few trysails I have seen up, they hoist above the first spreaders, so I don't see how you'd attach the head, maybe you don't? This is from the Ran Tan II Facebook page when they did a prestart driveby, no idea if this was their proper setup or they were just mocking it up... I really liked the idea but haven't investigated it any further.... I have also seen setups where the main halyard is attached to the goose neck and cranked on, then the trysail is hanked on to the halyard with soft hanks and hoisted using the topping li