Romany

din't even look that fast until i changed play speed to x 2

Thanks for that - the comment from guest was related to kiwigrip although i suppose its applicable to any paint system and your reply about the tape is equally so.

Thanks all. Guest - can we talk further? You have used it which is the experience I need to tap into. Please gis a bell on 0212408404 or text me a number and I'll call u. Cheers

sings There's a foiling thing on the starboard bow, starboard bow, starboard bow... The problem? Its sailing Jim but not as we know it.

Maybe both but I do have ex frames.

Minor drift here but can anybody give recommendations on who to talk to about making a dodger for me? Auckland area.

It cracked (lightening on the course frightened everybody) then fizzled, and then somebody won on a technicality cos the wind sucked. Yay.

Thanks for replies. While I may think a Townson 36 is a super yacht, that may not be a widely shared view, however, tough and durable I like the sound of. What is an 'LPU' and why? On the subject of skid resistant finish I was going to go with kiwi grip I think its called.

Has anybody used Durepox marine paints? I'm near to repainting newly glassed decks and cabin top - plus topsides repair ( full top sides next year) and at the decision point. Ive no idea cost comparisons/ application differences. At this stage just interested in suitability and mostly - durability

I'm constantly offended by the use of the word "yacht" when describing those bloody big stink pots that seem to be in favour by the wealthy and tasteless morons. IMHO yachts have sticky up things - you know - sail poles. I'd like to blame the USAeans for it but I'm not sure that other northern hemisphere twats didnt start it.

Done. Sadly, i believe it will matter not.

What about this one I cant tell.

So today I got the housing removed, both lag screws broke off so drilled out. Lag screws were defintely 'rotten' - quite crimson where they sheared. Undoing housing off the tube was easy - nice and firmly attached by courtesy of some sealant but wound off easily when the big stilsons came out. Hopefully Simon at Chatfields is going to agree the housing isnt rooted. $600 for a new one not in my budget atm. The query for you all though is when i refit, do i wipe out old grease to make sure i get any swarf, then pump new grease in as well as apply sealant around the mating faces a

Funny. I've always thought that Des' placement of the iron sail led to a relatively short shaft, but when u think about - u could be right. I appreciate the cautionary tale.

Thanks all..

Mostly i wanted to make sure it is sealed, however as soon as i broke the first of the 2 screws it became a necessity anyway. And - as we seem to have assembled a bevy of knowledable ones- i have on many occasions looked at my old school stuffing box with less than complimentary sentiment. If i were to pull the tube for purpose of checking that its all good but also intending to go to dripless system what issues might i encounter and can you walk me through it? Note - No requirement to be in 100 words or less

Ok Thanks. Assuming we have a tube, threaded at both inboard and outboard ends would one end be LH thread and the other RH?

Townson 36. Bronze studs i think. Come to think of it - the last time this was done, I paid Bill to do it (10 or 15 years ago i think) i recall a thread on lower end of the tube so I'll try and unscrew the upper stud rather than backing off what i thought was a locking nut. Of course with the stud still in the housing cannot be unscrewed.

This is the business end of a prop shaft on a Townson 36. I decided amongst all the other things to do that the cutlass bearing housing needed removal and probably resealing - mostly cos fibreglassing outside is generally frowned on in the pissing rain but also it looked dodgy. So i tried and wouldnt ya know it - the lower stud broke off . Original fitting, 48 years old finally succumbed to the ravages of time. So i have drill it out and set a new one in but before I can, have to remove the housing. I've never done that, so - does anybody have advice as to how? It seems secure -

Yup. No train = no one gets on or off! Seems like throwing baby out with bathwater though doesn't it? As someone else pointed out the train didn't go rogue - it was the train driver who shoulda been caned within an inch of his life. I'd expect we will be hearing a governmental apology to the train in years to come.

I've just binned the remnants of my old SP Inflatable and will not be going back to blow up anythings. Its the real deal for this boy from now on. Plywood dinghy, GF (with luck her indoors wont find out 😉), full cream milk. actual coffee, sugar if i feel like it, full bodied red wines, blue vein cheese, steak n kidney pies - all the good sh*t. If i were doing what u suggest BP - I'd get a catalysed contact,suitable for plastised vinyl, the same vinyl as the tubes. Do it outside & have loads of carbon activated masks at your side. In my experience catalyst is iso cynate base

So - when it seems all is lost its not, actually. Rum makes everything good

Nup. With luck I won't wake up dead

Give Nick at Adhesive Technologies a call. They do west system resins and as far as I remember pricing was better by far

crazy ivan moves are pretty hard to avoid.