All Activity

Thinking Alabaster white boring I know. Red has a certain appeal. All the trim ie cap rails thwarts tiller etc are plain unvarnished teak and the spars are carbon😀 May do trail boards old school flower relief cnc router cut and guilded but no room for a bare breasted figurehead unfortunately the Admiral wouldn’t agree to pose must be that my pockets aren’t as deep as Jeff Bezos.

I have never thought about using the Triton to calculate the wind triangle. I have Triton 1's. I just treat them as dumb displays. My system is set to Auto and the AC12 is always automatically selected as the source. I always assumed that if the ac12 was off that the source shifted to the Zeus 2. The fact that b&g auto prefer the AC12 over the Zeus tells me I shouldn't be using the Zeus as the source and therefore probably not the Triton 1 either 🤣

She’s looking great! Do you have a final colour scheme in mind?

Some friends have the Orca core and they really rate it and from what I've seen it's really intuitive and has a nice look. I'm not sure about your use case for it,

The orca looks cool. Even just the chart software orca does is nice. If you choose it, id love to come check it out!

And the holy grail of true wind, or corrected apparent wind for all the things that a seaway and gusting winds throw at the masthead. I have given up swearing at the gnome in the triton, wake up ya barst*d. Not too often, but it happens. Which brings me to the question of wind calc’s . That only in wind mode right? That the AC12/42/NAC2/3 does it. Otherwise the triton does it, right? B&G gear. You can switch the Zeus and AP off and true wind doesn’t change. I’ve only had them for 9yrs, Obviously I don’t need to know, enough. Went without wind mhu for a year after it developed a c

I kind of regret parting with our old wooden log as it was way far less demanding than the house… Think I will add another extra metre to the Morby to suit the Navy Whaler oars.

Consumerism. Stuff you never knew you wanted, but now simply cannot do without. Oh, and you and exciting ways of spending boat dollars.

I wonder what that is all about

You doing the new keel?

Anyone had any exposure to the Orca Core 2? I am thinking about one as a dedicated wind triangle cpu. It has a 100Hz 6 axis attitude sensor built in and according to the marketing it rivals the B&g H5000 + 3D motion sensor for wind triangle calculations. I am currently on the fence between the Triton Edge and the Orca Core 2 but certainly leaning towards the Orca. There's minimal specs on the Edge but I doubt it has a built in attitude sensor as this would canibalize their new Hercules CPU. I currently have a AC12 doing the wind calcs and frankly it's time fo

Rule 30, Vessels at anchor or aground part c. A vessel at anchor may, and for vessels over 100m shall, show available working lights to illuminate her decks

Nice run today leaving Audierne at 1605 after a day of work (home office rocks!) and parking in Brest at 2205 IMG_9237.mov

Sorry about the strike-through but couldn't get it to turn off. I was particularly referring to top down furlers. I have never had a problem with the code 0 -so it's not the furlers fault. I sail a lot on my own and have never had a forestay furler. I agree that hanks are safe and easy. We also have a reefing blade and a reefing jib which gives heaps of easy change options.

https://www.yachtingnz.org.nz/news/anchor-watch-rule-ynz-welcomes-sensible-new-interpretation

I don't have a fuller, but my rig uses the one headsail from 0 to storm jib

I've learnt the hard way that some replacement parts are best kept as genuine or OEM... I think the impellor fits that category for me.

I'm not a fan of furlers. Had 3 occasions where they have stuck which can be tricky. Also had a sock jam at the top of the mast - even trickier. Don't get me started on in mast furlers they must be a disaster waiting to happen. As you say nothing beats letting the halyard go and tidying up afterwards. But I'm also well past sail changes on a pitching deck so have a furler and try to look after it really well.

Entry tonight is for SSANZ members only However, with the discount it’s a better deal to join then enter anyway

Victron

There’s your cue. And it has proof of service.Use only enough glass and ply to achieve support for what you have planned above. Use your db /csm for tabbing if you already have it. Pay particular attention to end grain saturation of ply and apply on cooling cycle part of day. Thin or heat resin for first coat. Just repeating the mantra of others above.😉

Entries open tonight at 1900hrs Last time it sold out in minutes, you will be able to buy a ticket from 7pm tonight which will allow you to complete your entry form later on the race portal. The link will only become live at this time, so you may need to refresh your browser You will need, a credit card, your name, email address, ph number, boat name and design. The ticket isn’t transferable however you will be able to swap out co-skipper or boat if you upgrade either https://www.ssanz.co.nz/nt.2025/ Entries are limited to 40 yachts, after this you will be able to join th

All that was there previously was a glassed in bilge water tank, itself made of glass. I am a neophyte when it comes to boat design, but with just a skimpy piece of construction tying that area together previously, I'd say the way the boat is built is already massively strong old school GRP boat building prior to the 1974 Oil Shock (mine is a '72 Twister built by John Tyler of Tyler boat works UK, who incidentally retired to NZ and is still alive, now in his 90's I would say) . Here is some detail of how the GRP versions were built that I was able to obtain via the 'Twister Association'

If there is any doubt in your mind of its current structural integrity I would glue in solid wood floors, centres at official Twister plans dimensions, with arrased edges and coved floor/hull junction to ease transitions. . Feather floor ends to hull so as not to create stress riser. Glass over floor side to side in one piece glass, overlap the ends to hull. Carefull to not entrap air. Say, 440gm db @+-45° and 220gm Uni @0° (parallel to floor.) min 4layers, staggering edges. Smallest last. Peelply. Don't use too heavier glass as wont go over floor easily. Vacuum will do a nice job. Cove and

Going to use 45/45 Biaxial, with CSM on one side. And you are saying uni-directional too?