Island Time 1,239 Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Well, over Easter, Island Time developed an engine problem. Oil in the coolant. Bugger. Most likely a head gasket. I decided that, as there was also a small oil leak from the rear crank seal, I'd take out the motor. While its out, repaint the engine bay and replace the sound insulation, along with the engine room lighting. Got the engine out, cleaned the engine room, stripped the top end of the engine, yep gasket is dodgy. Head stripped and will go to the re conditioners on Monday for skimming. Stripped off all the engine accessories, but broke the front crank pulley for the alt belt trying to get it off. Degreased engine, soda blasted it and painted. The Turbo had no paint, and was pretty rusty. Cleaned rust off with drill and twisted strand wire brush. Primed and painted with ceramic paint, (never used that before), which needed setting in the oven at 200c for an hour. Cleaned and painted the heat exchangers, water pump, starter etc. Next issue, Seaquip ( local Volvo agent) tells me the top end gasket set no longer available. Obsolete. Can do a head gasket, $300 odd. Research online, found after market top end gasket set for 40 Pounds. Delivered to NZ for $102 NZD! Ordered that. Bought new engine room sound insulation - The old stuff was the Foreman insulation stuff, and was breaking up after 16 years. This time, I went for the VyBar stuff. Dammed expensive and heavy, but not supposed to de-laminate, and the sound reduction specs are pretty good. Also ordered some 12v LED strip lighting to make the new engine room lighting from. 4 days on this so far, probably 4 more to go..... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
smithy09 50 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 That's pretty good progress in 4 days IT. Bravo! Hard to get out? I think I have to dismantle the galley to get the Marshall's engine out.. How many hours on your engine out of interest? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 um ... a lot. Close on 10 thousand. Had one rebuild in that time. Its easy to get out, takes about an hour, use the boom as crane, its basically take off the steps, engine cover etc, disconnect the sail drive, wiring, hoses and compressor etc, lift it straight up, swing it onto wharf and trolley it up to the garage. It's actually in surprisingly good condition - can even still see the cross hatch from final cylinder hone last time, and very little lip on the top of the cylinders.. The hardest part has so far been getting all the old insulation of the engine room. I have come to really hate that forman insulation stuff! And the VyBar stuff (the double layer one) is harder to install, but gives a great finish. Almost done with the insulation now, just repaint the engine beads and the engine room will be ready. Then reassemble the engine. Should look pretty smart I reckon, Volvo green engine, all the accessories in White epoxy paint, incl the metal fuel lines and details. Hope to have her all going again next week. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ynot 45 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Do ya take motor out and leave sail drive in whilst the water? Do you have to support sail drive some way? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Yep, motor out, saildrive remains. Boat sinks without saildrive ! It stands fine on its own rear mount... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BNG 44 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Crikey I wish it were that easy on mine. Great progress IT, that's commitment! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ynot 45 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Yep, motor out, saildrive remains. Boat sinks without saildrive ! It stands fine on its own rear mount...That's good to know may have do mine soon Volvo 2003 Ta Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Mine is a 2003T, but basically the same. Be warned its not possible to get some factory parts now.... My top end gasket set is one, it arrived yesterday ex UK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ynot 45 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Rogerydodger that Ta Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chariot 243 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 The lack of avaliable parts was the main reason I chose to repower rather than rebuild. Plus I don't have the mechanical expertise to rebuild an engine myself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 The main issue if a full rebuild is needed are the stupid copper cooling tubes, and the castings (block, head, etc) themselves. There is still no reason a 2003 cant be rebuilt, just have to use some after market parts... Plenty of 2nd hand ones around to cannibalize. For me its just a matter of $. A new engine is 20k+ and needs quite a bit of boat building etc to fit. Probably close to 30K going. I know ill have to update at some stage, but the longer I can put it off, the newer the engine will be when I eventually sell the boat (or my estate does). This little refresh will be about $2500, excluding labour. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chariot 243 Posted April 14, 2018 Share Posted April 14, 2018 You are right. I had a 2003 28hp and replaced with 30hp thinking it would be a straight out with the old and in with the new but no, had to have new engine beds. The only things that remained where the engine controls and the prop shaft. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Engine room almost ready for reinstall. Should have the head back tomorrow... The big copper pipe is lifted out of the normal position - its the pickup for the engine room bilge pump. Cabling looks disorganized, but its just out of the way of the we paint.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ynot 45 Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Ooohhh shiny Why copper pipe? Used Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 The copper pipe seems to have been fitted at the factory. Its pinched at the end and has lots of holes on the underneath to work as a strum box for the engine space bilge pump... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Battgirl 23 Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Lovely work IT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John B 106 Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Yes, nice work. Great access by the looks too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Yeah, the access is not bad. Back comes off the engine room, front as well, top too. Only the sides are fixed... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sudden5869 17 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Decided to replace the last wire rope on Oliver Sudden. Pulled the old Outhaul system out of the boom. Glad I did it.... the wire swage ends and internal blocks looked nasty. The new Outhaul is now cascading dyneema and block system in the boom. 24:1 purchase on a cam cleat to make adjustments easy. Added two cam cleats to the clutch mounting plate for the new Outhaul set-up and moved update Downhaul. Looking forward to seeing how it all works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Island Time 1,239 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Well, motor is in and going. Still some small things to finish, a small cooling system leak (typical of the VP 2003 series) and finish the soundproofing on the removable panels... Ready to install on the dock And installed and running; 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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