Jason128

So... you have two functioning alternators on your boat, and want a third as a spare? surely you can setup to charge both sides from one as a backup.

It’s well worth spending the time to get it loose. There’s plenty of motors that have continued to run for years after being corrosion seized. Yes it might never be quite the same, but given how much you will actually use it, does it really matter if it smokes a little? I remember my dad spraying crc in a engine for what seemed like month to free it before it finally worked, we sailed around in it for years later as kids. I know how much better Automatic Transmission Fluid mixed with crc works on bolts, if you know what your cylinders are made of, this might be an better option.

Also a little pc fan inside the fridge blowing on the fan can make a huge difference for now much effort

I would think 100mm of foam is pretty good. essentially you are trying to cool those brine tanks, which will take a lot to do initially. I Tried to freeze 3x 10l bottles in the freezer at home before Christmas, it took the best part of a week to freeze them solid, kept the beer cold for at least a week in the esky too Either drain them, or use them to your advantage if you can - you just need to get them cool before you load up the fridge. Setup it up so you can run it for 2-3 days before you set off, they will be nice and cold and help keep the temperature cool and stable. Once

Ouch, that’s expensive for what it does,

Thanks IT. Decided to replace the antenna as well. Pacific aerials are making me one up with the longer required cable. no joins seems good to me

Depending on where you look there is differing information about which channel All ships calls should be made entering the restricted navigation zone. some sites show CH18 for all ships call. http://www.cruiseguide.co.nz/marlborough-sounds/boating-and-navigation/tory-channel-entrance/ some show CH19 https://www.marlborough.govt.nz/repository/libraries/id:1w1mps0ir17q9sgxanf9/hierarchy/Documents/Recreation/SafeBoatingBrochure.pdf Which is Right? this seems like a recipe for disaster with differing channels published. And how many people are actually doing this? I don't think i

thanks Ill try giving them a call. I sent them a email a month ago and heard nothing back.

Anyone interested in a Raymarine Fluxgate Compass. take out of the boat as not required- working fine. open to offers- better getting used on on the shelf i also have a bunch of sealalk 1 cables and hub as well Raymarine ST40 Compass System w/ Fluxgate transducer E22048 Raymarine ST40 Compass System Features: SeaTalk compatible for networking to other instruments, multifunction displays and autopilots High contrast LCD display for excellent visibility 3 levels of display backlighting for night use Large digits and analog readout for visi

Anyone know where I can get a 1m VHF extension cable. The only ones i can find are long, and i don't really want to buy crimpers to make one up? cheers Jason

I reckon 80% of established builders I see are using Makita. I think that says something. There are a few that use Milwaukee as well. We have had nothing but trouble with hitachi gear at work, so much so they will no longer offer us warranty claims, we have sent so much stuff back! The only reason we haven’t changes is the dozens of hitachi batteries we have.

Sorry to be blunt, but I would not want this near my boat. If you look at the original, you have a long length that runs in the casting parallel. This cools the casting, before the water is eventually injected into the exhaust. I doubt you will keep the end of that pipe at below 100 degrees where your hose is connected on. If I’m wrong, and you do, you will have a say 300 degree pipe cooling to under 100 over the length of inch. This will lead to fatigue cracking in stainless. I would be nervous this will fail, and of course at the worst possible time

The eWOF inspectors- - for whoever it was that asked- from the evans bay marina newsletter are The process for obtaining an EWOF is – 1) Electrician inspects boat & remedies any fault. 1 Stop Electrical, Rex Cherrington 022 111 1122 Euro Electrical, Florian 027 245 8889 2) Electrical Inspector inspects & issues EWOF. John Corbett 027 599 0540 My understanding is all 3 issue Ewofs, not just the last one The process for obtaining an EWOF is – 1) Electrician inspects boat & remedies any fault. 1 Stop Electrical, Rex Cherrington 022 111 1122 Eur

Thanks for that island time, Am I right in undersanding in your opinion the battery charger is not a real risk in terms of adding to galvanic corrosion risk? Have sorted the bilge now, no wires sitting in it, and found all the leaks so it’s dry, (ironically it’s raining here, and the house still leaks, bucket in the lounge room, but the boats dry!)

It’s not just signing it off, this was a new install, done by one of the certified inspectors. Brief was do what’s required for ewof to tun a dehumidifier and charger continously

Completely agree about stray dc current being the biggest culprit. I had a alloy prop shrink in size by about 2 inches over 6 months. Eventually found that someone had joined in a new bilge pump 3 inched off the pump, so the join was always wet... So should I be nervous about the battery charger? It’s a pro mariner pro sport 20a triple charger, which is designed to be left running continuously apparently...

I should add I queried the need for earthing out the dc side, at the time if installation, only a few months ago. The electrician was adiminant it was not required, and only increased risk of corrosion. Just goes to show what a shambles the whole ewof process is, completely different interpretations of the regs depending who does it. I really question if it has made any improvements to the quality or safety of installations overall

I guess that’s what I’m wondering too.... Basically I have the same as you, with 2 outlets, one for a charger and one for a dehumidifier. If it’s signed off without the grounding to the ac, is there practically any advantage in adding it.- I guess there is a connection to the dc system happening through the charger- so still at risk of galvanic corrosion if something goes wrong? Chargers not a transformer type, so not fully isolated. I have sterndrives, so pretty paranoid about corrosion to say the least!

Interesting you say that. I have just had a setup installed specifically for getting a e wof. From one of the only 2 that are allowed to issue them in WELLINGTON. The ac ground is definately not connected to the dc.? Definately no reverse polarity light either. Only 2 power points, with a rcd and circuit breakers. Nothing else.

Stagecoach, Steve Hogg and Neil Wood at the 12 foot skiff interdomonions many years ago. Racing was cancelled and send it competition down Evans bay was held instead. Yes, they to round up to avoid the rescue boat.

thanks for that -much appreciated, the amount of knowledge you share here is fantastic. stumped as to why it was not suggested to begin with. I’ll talk to the sparky, and be in touch about pricing of need be.

I’ve just had this done, it was about the same amount as you describe, and similar cost. I saved a little by running all the cables and conduit, cutting holes etc. No galvanic isolator- I wrongly assumed it was mandatory, so didn’t question it.. Basically I have I one power point for a dehumidifier and a always on battery charger. Nothing else. This is on a cat (one without a mast) and sterndrives, so corrosion is a big risk, big deal. Should I be asking him about fitting a galvanic isolator? And how much more in involved?

I can second the heat space support and service. I looked seroiusly at the clones, at half the price, but given how much is required to install, decided against it. I foolishly thought it was a couple of nights work.... as a new install it is not!

Yep, have had the exact same failure, leaking through the handle seal, on closed position. 10 year old boat. Previous owner could not find the leak, and fitted a extra bilge pump in the area to deal with it! Changed to the true design valve after that. We have not had much luck with the Hansen valves in industrial applications either, they seem to fail much faster than the true design or pvc valves

I would guess you would be fine in the 49er mast section. Most of the 12 foot skiff prods that have a bob stay are a 38mm section, so a lot thinner than a mast section. You need to make sure where it meets the bow is strong enough, and possibly reinforce the mast section where it enters the sleeve in the boat. Remember it’s a big lever, so if say the prods a metre long, and the bit where it enters the boats is 100mm, it’s a 10:1 lever. Add a 200kg pull up from the tack of the kite and you are dealing with 2 tons at the boat