Jason128

A cheap airless compressor plumbed backwards is a great way to go. Not to noisey, and can run for days. Setup it up with airline fittings so you can still use it as a compressor as well. fridge compressors are ok, but require perfect seals everywhere. don’t cheap out on any of the seal tapes, breather fabrics or peel plys- you need it all.

Silly question, but is it possible to add a voltage regulator before the motor ecu? Surely the main feed to the starter/ Alternator are seperate to the ecu feed, or can be carefully jumped into with the right matching plugs? That would sort the problem, and if a plug in part can hardly effect any warranty. the reality is no supplier can say a warranty is void due to a modification is if that modification has caused the failure. It’s like those stupid stickers that say warranty void if removed.

Find a recently Built jetty and look up on the smart map database the council has. You can see everything that was required, resource consent documentation, building consent docs etc.

Simple answer- if you want to race, you need to find out what’s sailing near you and get the same.

Been there- they were not any good- the tooling are not standard crimp sizes. Definately not as good a result as the pros get. Get extra lugs and try a few before putting into action.

Buy off the zephyr website https://www.zephyr.org.nz/Trading-Corner/Book-Des-Townson-by-Brian-Peet-1

If it would really would not fire at all on engine start- you have eliminated the fuel system. If you are sure it won’t fire on engine start, then it has no compression . Start looking at the decompression stop system…. or it’s had a catastrophic failure.

It creeps. You will forever be chasing rig tension changing. at 7mm the weight windage will probably worse than 3mm wire We use 4mm on the prod of a 12. Prestressed splices to 2t overnight to bed them in. It will needs a winch to put it in in the morning, and will be getting soft by the end of the day. Fine for a prod, hopeless for a tensioned rig 3mm 1x19 wire is all you need for a forestry the skiffs and sports boats not running wire are running either pbo or 2.5/ 3mm solid carbon rod.

What Jon said. take it out and bench test at home. Prove the pumps fine then you can ficus on the rest. A little air leak will ruin any ability to suck up, or you will find worn valves in the pump. we had a bad o ring at the top of the tank pipe that leaked, Could only pump out the top 1/4 of the tank, then it sucked in too much air.

https://discount-marine.co.nz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=333_365&products_id=6710

Most of the diaphragm pumps are self priming. It would be very unusual not to have one of these as the freshwater pump.

Don’t leave it in there.. When you need the motor for some reason in a big sea, you will have that fear of the wood breaking down or sloshing around and blocking the inlet. You can be assured it will only happen when you really need it.

Yep what Matt m said. Bit of 6mm aluminium tube from Bunnings with a wire loop through it, allows you to bend it. if you can’t see it, a 20 dollar endoscope camera off trade me that connects to your phone so you can see what you are doing. have salvaged a lost tool out af a hydraulic tank doing exactly this last week. It wasn’t me who put it there!

I would not loose too much sleep over the hose. the hoses are something like 150psi rated, so probably take 300 psi new. After the regulator is 0.5 psi. There’s enough factor of safety there it’s like a structural engineer was involved. Our boat pre 2003 is flex hose from tank to stove. Means no joins. When we got the boat we removed the regulator, pressure tested at 20 psi and soapy water everywhere. Personally I would rather 1 old flex hose than multiple crimped pvc covered copper or aluminium systems I have seen in modern installations.

Replace the ropes. Drop 1 size. New rope flexes so much better and will have less friction. Those all look well worn and will be as stiff as can be.

Yes, I suspect you are right, it is a fairly large motor and load for such a small battery. i have the correct spec batters installed, and we will see how long they last. thanks everyone for the help... I was destined to put the wrong type in again it it wasn’t for the advice.

That’s awesome information, thanks guys. I knew it was worthwhile posting up on here. I could have so easily repeated the same mistake, using the specs off the existing battery. i don’t know if I accidentally swapped in gel batteries, or if I just copied what had already been incorrectly put in. either way, AGM of the same size is the next logical step. thanks again, the wealth of knowledge in here is fantastic

Unfortunately it’s second hand, and they are not original batteries. they are vague, attached is the info in their spec sheet

Bugger, I thought this would be simple. I’ve learnt something though, I though AGMs charged at the same voltage. i guess I’m off to the nz distributor /supplier then. I was reluctant to even ask for a price given the list price for a new tug, which is not much more than a golf trolley motor!

I guess that’s a possibility.. I was going on blindly believing the manufacturer would get it right. They sell these things to airports etc for moving trolleys, and are 14k+ new. its their own brand label on the charger, so not a lot to be found on it. seriously thinking about moving things around now to fit a larger battery set now.

I suspect you are right IT, both in therms of choice and treatment. Unfortunately with multiple staff using it, it does not get treated nicely. I suspect It really needs much larger batteries, but don’t really want to spend the time rebuilding to fit them! it does have a agm charger built in, so would probably last ok if it was kept on charge when not being used... sounds easy right. have emailed the guy you suggested aardvarkash

Cheap batteries have only lasted 6 months. Where can I get a good quality battery of the same dimensions.? uses 2 of them for 24v, but still it would draw a fair current, and tend to deep cycle cheers

I would be very cautious with splitters- I have seen two first hand that degrade the vhf transmission significantly. Both were very near new- and a popular nz brand I would rather have a second aerial and know the vhf is going to work properly.

Seems to me there’s a LOT of extra work in changing the drive configuration, I bet if you add it up, you could swap replacement saildrives in agin in 10 years and still be better off. I would look at how much extra work and cost you are creating for yourself - especially when there are bolt in replacement options. You are talking about being out of the water for a week vs 6-8. remember nothing is without maintainance.... theirs still seals, thrust bearings, and all the other fun stuff to fail

Move it as a temporary thing and try- depending on how the boat is built you might get away with it. it will not be as accurate- only you can decide how important that is to you, it will depend how you use it. I moved ours receiver inside when the outside one failed, but it is still an seperate gps, tucked up close to the cabin top. Ended up using a 50 dollar gps module, off eBay as I didn’t want to spend 500+ or a raymarine one for a 15 year old plotter. most will show the signal strength somewhere in the settings, so you can get a rough idea of the loss.