wheels

While that's true Kevin, the owner is probably not going to be happy with holes punched into his Hull. So I would suggest a less aggressive means of testing. Yes it's a good deal Lewis. There are many very good deals to be had at the mo and I suspect it could become more and more common, for a raft of reasons that are all coming together to pinch hard Boat owners struggling to keep a Boat. The questions you need to ask is what are your sailing plans for the future. These are not fast boats, but more a Cruising vessel and well suited to take you off shore if you want. They have plenty of

Opps, spelling mistake if you didn't catch it. Should have been Reset, not Rest. I edited it

In the future. more detail would be very helpful. 😒

A waste of time and money. Just one step up from a fan, in that it uses evaporating moisture to cool the air the fan is blowing out into the room. Max that can be achieved this way with a large proper unit is ruffly 3deg below ambient. So I doubt this thing is going to do anything.

You must have the one for the northern Hemisphere 😁 I have one of these. So I assume the House Bank is on 1. Does it come up with an error code? ie E 12 or 13 would mean the sense wires on bank 1 or 2 are OC respectively. Lo Batt = Batt more than 50% of declared capacity of EITHER Batt 1 or 2. So check the start Batt as well. Try powering off and on again. Failing that, check the discharge floor setting for that bank. Do you have the manual?? I don't know why that would change, but??......Normally you have it set to 50%. Yes I do see the voltage at 29.05, so if the discharge floor h

It's a TMC, not TML. Macerator pump, so it has a rubber impellor. Max head is about 5m mark. These will still pump at nearly full flow at that height. The head pressure is more in regards to strain on the blades of the impellor rather than actual pressure/flow. Too much restriction can cause the impellor to break off fins.

Not a problem at all. Although dosing a tank is not needed to be done stringently. So unless the tankful has not been used for the last 6 months, then another couple of weeks waiting is won't hurt. By the way, Super Cheap do a good one. Several actually, but I not think all of them would be available here in NZ. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/search?q=diesel+additive&lang=en_NZ Penrite and Chemtech are brands I trust.

I had to do a lot of plumbing for my land based inside out boat with PVC pressure pipe. I was shocked at the cost of fittings etc. So I looked on trademe and now use this business to supply all my fittings. Always been very fast delivery and parts are at a fraction of the cost. All stamped with the proper ANZS numbers as well. Look on trademe for https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/farming-forestry/irrigation-drainage/pipes-distribution/listing/2906199433 I noticed a couple of others as well, so could be worth a comparison.

sure it is ABS? It's easy to test. Using a cotton bud or corner of a rag, soak in some Acetone or MEK and place it on an area of the plastic where it will not bee seen and give it a few seconds. The cotton bud will "weld" itself to the ABS. It is the only plastic type what will do this. I question if it is ABS because that plastic is normally brittle and does not take impact well. I kind of expected a mudgaurd to be PVC or one of the more durable plastics. Assuming it is ABS, any of the solvent type glues work by dissolving the plastic surfaces and then as the solvent evaporates, the plas

The fact that the system has charged the battery to 13.5 volts is the guide here to be confident that everything is working fine. Depending on the charge controller type(MPT or PWM) make and model ( may or maynot give you user controllable paramters) determines just how exactly the controller will actualy work. But as IT said, 13.5 to 13.8V is float voltage. If a battery never reaches that float stage, then there is something wrong. If the charge voltage is always above 14.4V or maybe higher (providing it is not in equalization charge) and never drops. then something is wrong. If the

It was a comment in regards to splat's Post Heading calling them LiPo. Also as IT and I previously stated, they are made up of multiple numbers of 26650 cells which are as I described above. IT has already covered why these are not suitable. You may also have noted that the Units that can be paralleled tend to be the really expensive units. The Cheaper units often cannot be and the cheaper units tend to be Chinese ones, of which chances are, they will be the same make up as the one we are discussing. Not real LiPo, multiple cells of Li-ion and no proper BMS.

Do you want Corten because you want a rusty look? or are you considering it for tensile strength. If the look, then you could consider other cheaper steels and then coat it. There are now coatings that do the same thing, but better. Creating a rusty coating that then acts as a barrier to further corrosion and thus keeps the steel protected for much longer than just bare Corten steel is.

They should be able to be paralleled. The BMS is monitoring the cells inside the Casing and has nothing to do with anything outside that casing. So another Battery would do it's own monitoring of it's own internal cells. HOWEVER! WARNING WILL ROBINSON!!!! These Batteries are NOT LiPo. I think Jaycar need to be taken to task on this. What the Battery is, is hundreds of 26650 Li-ion cells all wired up in series/parallel configs to give the rated Voltage and Current. This is pretty much the kind of Li-ion that you get as battery packs for Battery tools. The individual battery is designed

If you want the best long term performance coating, then yes, use both. But you can also get good life from just the one.

"Quickest way to rot a wooden boat is to wash with Fresh water. " Washing any boat type in fresh water is not essential. I wouldn't worry about it.

Poorly. Depends on where you expect to be anchored, but you need to be fairly close to a good signal for a multi directional to work. I would suggest you could make it work in the Auckland Marinas, but I doubt it will from even just Waiheke. And it would have to be line of sight. Any island in the way will likely drop the signal too much. The next choice is to go for a dish. If you can anchor and have a couple of stern lines so as you can stop the boat moving too much, there are some auto seeking Dish units available for Caravans that are not anywhere near as expensive as the Marine ones. Bu

Depends on what the cost would be, how good the chain is and wear of old chain vs cost of new Chain. KM has high quality chain at the such a good price, you may as well go new. You need to check each link for wear on old chain. It is where the link joins the next that wears and if you have any wear at all. then the strength is compromised and it will not be fitting the Gypsy properly causing wear on that. It is not worth the hassle of getting re galved.

Yes, it is really weird this Galv Arc spray. The Guy around the corner from CRA showed me it. He could spray the Galv onto a sheet of paper and nor burn the paper. Yet it applied to the surface of the metal part perfectly. The finish looks like Galv that has had it's surface sandblasted. Which of course is due to the little bits being sprayed on. Just a heads up, the guy can spray all sorts of metal onto a surface and also he has a Teflon. I had alwasy wondered about spraying Teflon onto a Propeller.

Several different ways of doing this. The denso tape is not the best. It is messy to work with and hard to seal up everything that is exposed. I would go down the road of painting it. Here are some choices. 1: Rust remover, (usually Phosphoric acid) then paint with Cold Galv or Zinc Rich paint. If you want additional protection, you can also paint over the Cold Galv with a top coat. I would suggest a Zinc rich top coat like Galmet. 2: A Rust converter, This is a thick milky white liquid that dries black and converts rust to a hard paintable coating. Then apply a paint such as Galme

Same thing. SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) is simply the standard of test used to determine the Viscosity of the Oil. The W simply means winter (not weight) and is placed between the two sets of numbers purely to divide them. When there are two numbers, say the 15W40, the 15 means that at freezing point, the Oil will have a Viscosity or "Pour Rate" of 15. The Oil itself is normally this lower rating. As oil is heated, it thins very quickly. Additives are used to fortify the viscosity of an oil as it is heated. In the 15W4- case, the oil will remain at a 40 weight viscosity as it gets

SAE 15/40 ends up having a very similar Vicosity to a mono 30. Except a mono 30 remains a much more stable oil. So I would expect 30 would actually be the better performer than the 15/40 in a box like this. That is simply my opinion though.

I forgot about this. No not at all Doc. Just a little bit over is enough to cause major issues. If anything, it is best to be slightly under than over with the oil level. Especially if the Engine/box install is on a downward angle for a direct to shaft coupling, these things become a major headache. Advice was to fill with exactly the quantity of oil the service manual stated the box takes and not to use the Dip stick at all. And in one case I know of, the mechanic reduced even that amount of oil. Even slightly reduced, there is enough oil to get picked up and run around all gears and bear

Plus she was underwater for about 2 weeks. I expect that when someone starts seriously looking at it, they are going to find a lot more damage than it looks initially in the Pics.

I have heard of a couple of stories of Orca supposedly "Playing" with boats. I have no clue if they are really playing or not. Possibilities could be that they are knocking Barnacles off them, if that is a thing. Or maybe a Bull is being boisterous and thinking a Boat is a rival or threat. Maybe a Female (Is that a Cow?) is being precious of her young if there are any. They are intelligent animals for sure, but I imagine they can also misinterpret a Boat among their Pod. Playing IMV would be light bumping. In both occasions I had heard, it was more than light bumping. One had their rudder brok

Port and Starboard lights are still the same side as they are all around the World. The US is different in only which side you keep colours upon entry and exit to a Harbor.