CarpeDiem

So reading that link and this section: Does that mean that if it's a new eWOF on an old boat (pre 1/4/2010) that it doesn't need an earth? Or does it mean that the boat had to have a eWOF prior to 1/4/2010 without an earth? I have heard the specs say that the shore power negative has to be connected to the boat DC negative, but given this isn't earthed to the water it seems to not meet this requirement...

I need to go down this journey too. Any advice on the storage plate options? E.g., the IsoTherm ASU units? Instead of the evaporator plates? I currently have one house battery and no solar, I have been told to get into the electric fridge space I need to add a second battery and solar. So I have been putting the inevitable off. Removing the brine and filling it with expanding foam is a good idea, I always thought it was advantageous to keep the brine as a cold storage plate, now I see the light. Also if I remove the brine then I can drill through the fridge to get access for a a

Can you plug it into shore power to get the brine chilled in advance? Or leave it on with solar? Our engine driven one died a while ago and I put a new d1-30 in which had no way of attaching the compressor. So I am looking at doing the same as you. What we do on the long weekends is throw 1kg of dry ice in the bottom. The fridge is still cold 3 days later. And we only put already chilled stuff in the fridge. That wouldn't happen if we replaced the brine with foam. So my understanding is if you could get the brine precooled you'd have better results. This might be flawed for long tr

These little lugs (x4) under the boom for the lazy jacks were installed about 4 years ago. I've noticed not insignificant equal corrosion at all four points. There are several other stainless fixtures on the mast and boom that have existed longer and don't show any where near the same amount of corrosion. There is no corrosion inside the boom. I can't tell if the rivets are stainless or aluminium. I have drilled them off and will reattach them with aluminium rivets and will put an insulating washer between them. But the stainless will still be 'connected' via the rivet. So wi

CD is out. Coming home with beginners ain't gonna be pleasant for them and I might want some to come back! Thanks for organising! See you all at the party.

How much gas does it use?

I must be doing something blatently obvious wrong - but I can't find where to enter? No links in this thread, nothing on the news page, can't see it on the Richmond site... Help... Ignore me, I found it under the "More" drop down menu... I won't say it was obvious

Will an AC12 benefit from the Precision 9?

Any entity who now sells small goods under $1000 into NZ needs to collect GST at source. (Some goods are exempt from GST eg fine metals. So if the entity only sells fine metals they are exempt from registering). If you're goods are over $1000 then you can choose not to register and nzcs will use the current process to collect duty and gst. The $60 is what the rules were until Dec 1st. That's now gone. NZPost YouShop will now charge and collect GST on your shipment. Shippers are required to fill in paperwork which verifies that the GST has been collected at source. I guess that pa

I like this idea. Thanks.

No. We have the halyard and the tylaska shackle but have been told the crane needs a modification.

Thanks!

Would like to do some single handed sailing but not sure how to hoist the main... AP into the wind is a no brainer and I generally do that two handed. Winch and clutch is on the cabin top. Sail is to heavy to hand haul it from the cock pit through the clutch. Winching it from the cock pit... while I am ok with that for shaking out a reef when it needs to be done .. It seems mighty exhausting for something I want to be a pleasant experience. Electric winch is unbelievably expensive (I could buy a new main) Which leaves pulling it up from the base of the mast... Thought

Possibly not relevant to your situation but interesting... Have some friends that 'half' immigrated here (she is kiwi born, he is brit and now nz citizen as well). They didn't have to pay duty or gst by somehow leaving the boat registered in the UK and in his name. Don't really understand how that works but apparently it's all legit and very common...

Hi boat tech people, Should I be able to see Heel angle from an RC42 compass on the NMEA network? I can't find it anywhere in the settings... hoping it's a different name? Solution is Triton2, AC12, Zeus2, RC42 Thanks

On the B&G Zeus... On chart view, when you select a waypoint, (or anything else) a little speech bubble pops up with the name of the thing you selected, the name only sticks around for a couple of seconds and if you touch anywhere else it disappears. When you touch the speech bubble a screen appears giving you the details of the item you selected. At the bottom is a "goto" button. (on my b&g the goto is slightly obscured by a predictwind auto route overlay, but the goto button is still there). Now if that doesn't work, long press the screen for a couple of seconds

By sleeve do you mean outer cover? Then enough to be able to human handle it. I leave the cover on all the way to the exit point in the mast. That allows good capture/holding power by a crew member or application of rolling hitch or other jammer. Also gives some abrasion protection. If you're always winching it and never intend to hand haul it, then you only need enough for the clutch to grab. I would also put a 30cm dyneema cover at each reefing point. At the clutch end make the bury 400mm (50x diameter). (the reefing points don't matter as much).

100% certain, the tube is uninterrupted from hull to deck. So what's the process? There's obviously a big hexagonal thing at the top, infact apart from the four screws in the photo there is nothing else... What stops the rudder hitting the mud if I undo that nut? Does the rudder have to be supported first?

Does anyone have some insight into how I can service/inspect this without the rudder dropping into the Westhaven mud? Underneath I have a nipple for the bottom bearings, but nothing for the top. Underneath is just a fibreglass tube going from top to bottom with a nipple at the top attached to a flexible bit of hose that seems to go to the bottom bearings only as evidenced by grease commming out the bottom after filling it up. It started to squeak a bit on the way home from White Island so I think I need to do something about it. Thanks

I just got the D1-30, pretty sure it's the same 115A alternator. I also had a Next Step and didn't want to butcher the alternator. I went down the DC/DC route and settled on the CTEK250 coupled with the CTEK120. It includes solar, low voltage cut out and even float charges the starting battery from the house battery when the house is full. I currently use the solar input attached to a fixed 14.8v 10amp shore power supply whilst I decide on solar. I dislike that I can't adjust or tweak any of the settings but the factory values are ok.

If I needed to replace my stainless rod and I didn't need insurance (or could get someone to insure my diy) then I wouldn't hesitate. Insurance agent said they wouldn't even cover me for diy dyneema runners, they have to be professionally spliced and sized by a rigger.

So I just went through this. Jaycar only had fuses up to 200A and didn't sell the posts. Got the posts from Lusty Blundell in Albany who only had 100A fuses. So back to Jaycar for the fuses. Turns out the Jaycar fuses won't fit on the posts, the ceramic is just too small so had to stack a 1mm stainless washer under the fuse so it made contact with the post. Havn't been able to source a 300A one yet.

We just hadn't taken the square top out while choosing to stay the night or head home. Ended up staying the night.... Our keyboards operator suffered multiple broken fingers (we thought it was two at the time), 34 screws and 4 plates later... Massive thanks to Coastguard who were already on their way to Thirsty Work and turned around for us. Four years of membership, first time needed, money massively well spent.

Out of curiosity, why does the shore earth need to be connected to the boat earth if there is no connection between the shore power and the boat DC? Eg, running just a dehumidifier or any appliance not connected to the DC If you have multiple earth points, should they be connected? Eg, a Engine/Saildrive and a SSB earthing plate - do these need connection between them? Does this requirement change with/without shore power? I don't currently have shore power, it is something I am considering adding for just a dehumidifier, but this thread is putting me off ...haha

Pulled my sail drive out today. Quite a lot of growth, shells etc in the area between the sail drive mount and the hull of the boat. There is quite an area that would be difficult/impossible to antifoul/clean when the boat is out. Even if I was to replace the rubber groove everytime. What do others do to maintain this area? Given I have just cleaned it up in preparation for a new drive, should this area be antifouled? It's always just been out of sight, out of mind...